Will not start

Tiny
PHLIBBER
  • 2001 FORD F-150

Two Wheel Drive Automatic 76000 miles

I went out the other day to go on an errand and when I turned the key to start it, it turned over fine but would not fire. No stumbling. Just the sound of a healthy starter turning the engine over. I took a shot in the dark and wiggled the fuel pump relay. Presto the engine started and worked fine all day. Next day the same thing occurred but this time wiggling the relay did not produce the same results so I removed the relay and promptly replaced it and then the truck started and worked fine all day. I then assumed a defective relay and bought a replacement and installed it. Next day I went out to test the truck to see if it was going to start and it did and I thought the problem was solved. WRONG!

I went out today and it will not start no matter what I do. I tried replacing the new relay with the old relay to see if that would have an effect and it didn't so I am dead in the water with no ideas. There is no "Check Engine" light on or any other indication of a malfunction. I have checked all fuses and the gas tank is 3/4 full.

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Saturday, November 29th, 2008 AT 8:23 PM

269 Replies

Tiny
DAVE H
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  • 13,495 POSTS

Thanks for the donation. Have you checked if the engine is/is not getting fuel to cylinders try cranking it over and then removing a spark plug. To check if we are getting fuel? Plug should be wet and smell of gas? Please repost with answer and could you also supply exact engine size of your vehicle

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Saturday, November 29th, 2008 AT 8:36 PM
Tiny
PHLIBBER
  • MEMBER

The engine is the 5.4 Triton V8.
I cranked the engine and pulled a spark plug and it's dry.

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Sunday, November 30th, 2008 AT 12:20 PM
Tiny
DAVE H
  • EXPERT
  • 13,495 POSTS

When you first sit in vehicle. Make sure everything is turned off. Radio/heating etc. Put key in ignition and turn to ON. Do not try to start. Just ignition lights on. Do this a few times slowly. Do you hear a buzz noise for about 10/15 seconds? Also could you check fuse #10. 20amp. In underhood fuse/relay box.

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Sunday, November 30th, 2008 AT 2:00 PM
Tiny
PHLIBBER
  • MEMBER

I did as you said and I could hear a buzz that lasted about 2 seconds that was coming from the back about mid-ships. I am assuming that is the fuel pump being activated? Fuse 10 is ok. If only it were that simple.

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Sunday, November 30th, 2008 AT 4:12 PM
Tiny
DAVE H
  • EXPERT
  • 13,495 POSTS

So we now know fuel pump is working .. so if there is no fuel in cylinders on cranking then we are not getting injection .. try replacing CMP ..

Camshaft Position Sensor
A 3-pin Hall Effect type sensor or a 2-pin variable reluctance Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor is used. CMP sensor is used to determine camshaft position and to identify when piston No. 1 is at Top Dead Center (TDC) of compression stroke. CMP sensor signal is used by Powertrain Control Module (PCM) for synchronizing firing of sequential fuel injectors. Applications with Coil On Plug (COP) ignition also use CMP signal to select the proper ignition coil to fire.

Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor (5.4L)On front of engine. See Fig. 3 .


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/266999_cam_4.jpg

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Sunday, November 30th, 2008 AT 5:45 PM
Tiny
PHLIBBER
  • MEMBER

I put the spark plug back in and reconnected the coil for it and decided to see what would happen if I tried to start it. It started. Just what I need, an occasionally starting truck. A mechanics worst challenge and an owners worst fear because I'll never know when it will fail again. I think I'll take it to a garage and let them chase the problem. That is if it starts again tomorrow. I was hoping to find the failed part without going through and replacing them by trial and error and with it starting whenever it feels like it I will never know if I have fixed the problem till it won't start again.
I appreciate your help on this. I have learned a few things about the truck and I am more convinced than ever that I am out of my comfort zone with this problem.
Thanks again.

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Sunday, November 30th, 2008 AT 7:05 PM
Tiny
DAVE H
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  • 13,495 POSTS

Out of curiosity which plug and coil did you remove? It could just be loose connection somewhere?. Have the mechanic plug it in to a diagnostic computer. It should tell him where the fault lies. Hope it starts in the morning for you?

Dave H

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Sunday, November 30th, 2008 AT 7:12 PM
Tiny
PHLIBBER
  • MEMBER

As you face the engine, the first plug on the left (passenger side). Is that number 1?

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Sunday, November 30th, 2008 AT 7:16 PM
Tiny
DAVE H
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Yeah #1. I am of the opinion that it is the CMP. Not supplying a pulse to the injector circuit. This could be a faulty sensor or wire to the sensor. Sometimes they work when cold. And not when hot? Engines are 70% electrical sensors nowadays. Not like they used to be. Plug it in to a computer and it will direct you to the fault. They will start making us coffee soon I hope. Haha. Ask your mechanic to read the PCM. Let me know the outcome please?

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Sunday, November 30th, 2008 AT 7:30 PM
Tiny
PHLIBBER
  • MEMBER

The last car that I had that I could work on was my '73 Volvo 1800ES. I sold it a couple years back and haven't had the nerve or desire to work on the newer cars that we have owned. Makes you techs a very valuable bunch.
I'll let you know the outcome.

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Sunday, November 30th, 2008 AT 7:44 PM
Tiny
PHLIBBER
  • MEMBER

I took the truck to a local garage and they replaced the fuel pump and I have had no problems since. It was malfunctiong on an occasional basis and they diagnosed a pressure drop. Not the repair I had hoped for but we don't always get what we want. $600 poorer but it works.
Thanks for your help and ideas.

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Saturday, January 3rd, 2009 AT 7:09 PM
Tiny
DAVE H
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Thanks for letting us know the outcome.

Happy new year and Happy Motoring

Dave H

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Saturday, January 3rd, 2009 AT 7:37 PM
Tiny
CAPTAIN DAVE
  • 1994 FORD F-150
  • 5.0L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 129,000 MILES

Shut truck off while running on front tank. Five minutes later would not start. Started on rear tank, and would quit when switched back to front tank. Just put gas in both tanks, and read 1/2 each, will not run on front tank. This is my son's truck which he purchased a month ago, had been sitting quite a bit, though has been running fine since purchased. I do know history though don't know if old recalls were dealt with.

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Tuesday, December 20th, 2016 AT 10:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
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See pic on how to diagnose this system. It's apdf file.

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Tuesday, December 20th, 2016 AT 10:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPROS KEN
  • ADMIN
  • 12,165 POSTS

Hello, We had a truck in the shop the other day had the same problem, it ended up being the tank switching valve was bad, we replaced it and the problem was fixed. These valves are difficult to test or I would have you check it out.

Please let us know if this fixes your problem.

Best, Ken

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Tuesday, December 20th, 2016 AT 10:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
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Hmm just seeing pic first page didn't show up hope this one is better but it can also be the valve

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Tuesday, December 20th, 2016 AT 10:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
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Let's see if this one works. Sorry about this.

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Tuesday, December 20th, 2016 AT 10:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SNIPER198105
  • 1986 FORD F-150
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC

I replaced my distributor and rotor, the engine is at tdc and the rotor is inline with the no.1 plug but I cant even get the engine to sound like it wants to kick over. Any advice?

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Tuesday, December 20th, 2016 AT 10:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
  • 10,194 POSTS

ENGINE IS TURNING OVER---WAS RUNNING PRIOR TO REMOVING THE DISTRIBUTOR THIS ISSUE? WHY DID WE CHANGE THE DISTRIBUTOR? OR DID YOU JUST REPLACE THE CAP, NOT THE DISTRIBUTOR? KINDA WANT TO KNOW WHERE I'MMA STARTING. HOW DO YOU KNOW FOR SURE YOU ARE AT TDC? HOW DID YOU ARRIVE HERE?---I CAN HELP YOU PUT THE DISTRIBUTOR IN CORRECTLY. NEED THE BACKGROUND 1ST.--THE MEDIC

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Tuesday, December 20th, 2016 AT 10:44 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SNIPER198105
  • MEMBER

The engine turns over but wont fire. A mechanic told me while it was running two days ago that the distributor needs changed but he wanted 400 dollars. I went and bought one, forgot to make my marks with a sharpie and kicked it over before the new distributor was fully engaged with the teeth. Ive got new dist, cap, and rotor.I lined the timing marks on the fly wheel to tdc but im not exactly sure if ive got the dist. Teeth in the right spot.I am alighning the rotor with the no.1 plug on the cap.-Matthew

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Tuesday, December 20th, 2016 AT 10:44 AM (Merged)

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