My car turns over but wont start

Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
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Arent those relays the fuel pump relay and the eec relay. If the eec relay(brown one) is bad, you could have jarred it enough by moving it to start the car. These are very common parts to fail, I always replace the both of them. If you dont find the broken wire or corrosion in there
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Friday, March 7th, 2008 AT 7:24 PM
Tiny
SEVE12345
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I have another question. What is that thing with the duck tape on it? like the name so i can go and get that replaced plus 2 new relays. and how do you change the relays?
Thank you very much everyone that helped me get this, this is the best site to fix your car and i will refer you to everyone that i know.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/164730_DSCN0725_2.jpg

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Friday, March 7th, 2008 AT 9:32 PM
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
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That is I think called a pip
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Saturday, March 8th, 2008 AT 6:52 AM
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
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Push the clip and pull relay
check wires too

use a test light
check for power at the relays with key on


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_escor_1.jpg

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Saturday, March 8th, 2008 AT 7:04 AM
Tiny
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I took off the relays check for power and I got power at 1 of the 4 switches when it was on ON. I did that for the green one and the brown one and got power at 1 out of the 4 both times. I took off the thing with the blue around it and there is no power when the car is on ON. Is it the relays now or the thing with the blue around it or the wires?
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Saturday, March 8th, 2008 AT 9:32 AM
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
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If I were you I would replace the relays. You should have power at the black and pink wire and also the white and red wire with the key in the run position. On the fuel pump relay which is the green one. And also with the relay plugged in you should also have power at the white and dark green wire while cranking it over.
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Saturday, March 8th, 2008 AT 9:40 AM
Tiny
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On both the green relay and the brown relay I get power to the one with white and dark green not cranking the engine but the ignition on ON I dont get any power to any of the other ones
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Saturday, March 8th, 2008 AT 9:50 AM
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
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THE BLACK AND WHITE WIRE SHOULD HAVE POWER WITH THE KEY ON IF NOT CHECK THE METER FUSE IN THE INSTRUMENT PANEL FUSE BOX. IF FUSE IS GOOD THEN CHECK FOR POWER AT FUSE WITH THE KEY ON AND LET US KNOW
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Saturday, March 8th, 2008 AT 10:13 AM
Tiny
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Middle row fourth to the right.
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Saturday, March 8th, 2008 AT 10:25 AM
Tiny
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Does the 2 wires have to have the relays on to check for power?
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Saturday, March 8th, 2008 AT 10:26 AM
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
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No they can be disconnected
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Saturday, March 8th, 2008 AT 10:30 AM
Tiny
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The black and white wire had no power, the meter fuse had no power and I checked the engine fuse and there was no power there either. I took out the fuse and there was o power at the meter fuse place and for the engine fuse place also had no power.
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Saturday, March 8th, 2008 AT 10:45 AM
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
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So now we know that there is the root of the problem. Check fusible links at the starter solenoid to see if any are blown. Also we will have to check ignition output from the ignition switch. Right now im leaving work and wont be back to a computer for a few hours. Hopefully bmr will get on in the meantime and finish this party we have started. I will be back.
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Saturday, March 8th, 2008 AT 10:55 AM
Tiny
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Do you have a diagram of a 1993 ford escort lx 1.9 L 4 cylinder to show me where the fusible links at the starter solenoid are? And for the ignition output from ignition switch where would that be?
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Saturday, March 8th, 2008 AT 11:09 AM
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
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The dark blue wire at the ignition switch under the steering column is where you need to check for power with the key on. I just got this lap top and I dont know how to transplant the diagram from ondemand to this post, sorry. Im learning every day and that is something I need to know how to do. Get back to us.
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Saturday, March 8th, 2008 AT 12:09 PM
Tiny
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Im not sure if i got the right dark blue wire but i will send you pictures of it. I put the tester on the wire and it was flicking on a off if i pushed harder it would flick on and if i released it flick off. the light wasnt that strong on it.
it is the top blue one, it is attached to a white plug as you can see. the one on the top top.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/164730_DSCN0733_1.jpg

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Saturday, March 8th, 2008 AT 2:16 PM
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
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NO NOT IN THE RIGHT AREA. YOU NEED TO BE AT THE IGNITION SWITCH. THE IGNITION SWITCH IS WHERE YOU PUT THE KEY IN. THERE SHOULD BE SOME FAT WIRES THERE. THATS WHERE WERE LOOKING FOR THE BLUE WIRE.
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Saturday, March 8th, 2008 AT 2:57 PM
Tiny
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Do I have to take anything apart to get to it?
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Saturday, March 8th, 2008 AT 3:03 PM
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
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Yes you are probably going to have to take down hush panels under steering column and possibly take the cover off the steering column itself to access the switch.
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Saturday, March 8th, 2008 AT 3:10 PM
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
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Good job!
but if you have power at the relay are they clicking when first turn key on ?(ground ??)
do you have check engine light on when 1st key on
as for the fusible links
you have a picture of that.
you can check it
FORD don’t put their fusible links on the starter
GM did that
check for a corroded wire
replace relays
cheep enough to do
as for the connector that with two wires its an octane booster check the diagram I had sent you

shouldn’t have any power on it
GOOD LUCK


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https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_93esc_2.jpg

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Sunday, March 9th, 2008 AT 9:47 AM

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