Replaced fuel pump, fuses, relay a

My neighbor got it taken care of. While we were diagnosing the the fuel system we checked the fuses and electrical. We had dropped a fuse label under not in use in the diagram but was completely not the case.

Can someone please tell me, if the problem I'm having is my fuel pump or fuel injector, I went to the local store earlier tonite and my car just died out while I parked it, after getting back in and starting it, the car would not start but sounded like it wanted to kick over, a local auto person came by and siad it's either my fuel pump or fuel injector( hm at this point I don't think I'll take either of his words) please can someone help me out here?And how do I check to see which is what, and how do I replace the fuel pump or fuel injector on my 1997 Crown Victoria?

O.K. When I tried to start it, I really don't recall if it made a humming noise, but a man who had ether squirted it in the fuel area, and it almost started, well it actually did start but didn't stay, it died out right away, does this anawer the question, does this mean it actually is my fuel pump?

Well if it ran on ether. We know it has spark.
This rules out crank sensor which have personally owned two 4.6 L that the crank sensor went out on. Although it is usually a part fails rarely.

Take the gas cap off and put your ear to the hole. See if you hear the pump spinning. Humming for about 2 seconds when someone turns the key to on position. You probably won't.
My guess is the pump is not spinning.
There is a a fuel pump fuse under the dash I believe on 97 check owner's manual for location or I can find it for you.
There is also a fuel pump relay under hood Manual will show this too. You can swap the relay for another one that looks like it under the hood to try to test. The relays don't go bad that ofter though.
Fuel pumps on Ford full size cars are beyond excellent in longevity. About the only thing that can hurt them is running it almost out of gas or out or gas often.

There are more ways to trouble shoot it like bypassing the relay etc. But it gets a bit technical.
Let me know if you want to try other diagnostics.

I had an issue with the fuel too on my 97 cvpi.
Mine would start after a lot of cranking then would run, the wouldn't get out of the driveway. We thought it to be bad gas (which it had set for awhile). We spiked it up enough it should start up and run but no it did not.

The tank in the cv is a real pain in the butt to get to, it is hidden nicely above the rear axal.

After removing the tank we drained the nasty old stinky gas and had seen foreign material and debris. Closer inspection revealed pieces of rubber and dirt.

Out came the fuel pump, that revealed that it had corroded and the rubber on it fell apart.
Replacement of the fuel pump on the police model turned a bit harder to find than normal considering that most police have turned to newer models. The pumps push alot of pressure. If you were to take off the line on the filter located under the driver's side rear door and turn on the key, you would see fuel shoot all over the place. This is a good sign that the pressure is there. We replaced that filter too considering the debris in the tank and that we had been running it alot.

We put it all back together and added a couple gallons of gas, then we checked, double and triple checked that there were no leaks and fuel was again flowing.

We then started the car and WOW! IT WORKED, we filled up at the station.

A week later the car died on the freeway. After an hour of "WTF", it started and continued to run on for about 3 miles and died again. Once started, the car ran fine for 2 more weeks and there it went again, just dieing over and over. I pulled into a parking lot and went over a speed bump and I was able to keep it running, then 2 more hours of "WTF" before I towed it home where the right diagnostic tools were.

IF I PAYED ANY ATTENTION AT ALL, TO THE LITTLE STICKER ON THE CORE SUPPORT UNDER THE HOOD, I MIGHT HAVE SEEN THAT IF THE CAR DIED REFER TO THE OWNERS MANUAL THAT TALKED ABOUT THE "ROLL OVER" OR INERTIA SWITCH THATS LOCATED IN THE TRUNK.

It did not need to be reset, which is super simple, but the switch had a short in the wiring, shutting off the fuel supply, allowing the car to suddenly die. That could have cost me $300 if I took it in to be checked.