Flashing airbag light?

Hi Joe, thank you for your response. I have done some research and thought the code was 32. That code in my OBD1 book also stated what you have indicated in your response. I ordered and changed that sensor (wow, what a job that was) and it made no difference to the flashing air bag light. I also while I had it off checked the harness for power and had power (somewhere in the 3.5-to-4-volt range) on two of the pins. The third pin had no reading. I used an OBD1 code reader, and it does not pick up the error on it. I tried both KOEO and KOER and it still never showed a code 32. After I changed the position sensor does the error reset itself or do I have to manually reset it? I will try in the next few days what the article you attached to see what I can find out. If I find anything out, I'll send you another message.

Thank you again for your response.

Joe, I attached a sheet to show you the results of the test I performed. If you need more info let me know.

Thank you, I have not removed the EGR because its is a very cramped spot to get to. I will try to do that in the coming days.

Hi Joe, here's what I tried today. I removed the EGR valve vacuum line and used a vacuum pump to add vacuum to the EGR valve. I used a mechanics mirror to view the valve under vacuum. The valve went up when the vacuum was applied and down when I released the vacuum. I then added vacuum to the vacuum line that goes the the EGR valve and the gauge would not show any vacuum at all. I then replaced the vacuum line onto the EGR valve found the vacuum line at the Vacuum regulator or modulator (both refer to the same valve) and applied vacuum to the green vacuum line connected to the EGR valve. The EGR valve again worked as is should have. I am wondering if the modulator/regulator valve could be bad. It has green and a black vacuum line connected to it as well as an electrical connection. I can't get the connector off to check for voltage or test the vacuum regulator/modulator itself. I will try again later and get back to you. If I can get the electrical connector off what kind of reading should I be looking for and should the battery be isolated or connected when testing? I am including a URL from ebay to show you what the part looks like. Just highlight the whole HTPP: URL only then right click then select open link in a new tab.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154122841302?hash=item23e26fecd6:g:l-8AAOSwq3heqA4E&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8GJMZcHpN2HuCZTgRYA4RRSN9QOMoJLM7CNEj39MYqTivVzuUj%2BcPqPlPtYojSjS5KzgZASQeVNZrleFBWHQHaQZhnlIFzDHfCJ3%2B5IjW3mJZojy%2BhwNVufOQL0r%2Fjm3qn7gmGtUltmT9xrvp%2BHGu0nYCnESobtwYXZpVBWAnWacQwPkJs3HFNg%2B166aO7zdtEs283iSx1swcw3vxUwn1pyVNdwLkMGJh7f%2FCSWLqG7%2BzmlQC38Z%2BLshDET4rWmONgLAf4MB%2B%2FN3LjQ0TjzBmeNsM0RhFQNzXqZJpf8SrgrYlkPXFwZcQmxAvHJwVSYCKw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM3uam5Ilh

Neither port holds vacuum with a cheap harbor freight vacuum pump. Here's what I did today. I removed the solenoid from the vehicle, the electrical connection showed 9.5 volts with the key on engine off. Doing a bench test on the valve I removed the top cap added power from a 12v battery and the pin on top became magnetic when power was applied and non magnetic when power was disconnected no clicking heard. I also used a ohms meter to test the electrical arms where the plug connects to from under the cap. The ohm meter shows various ohm readings then goes to zero ohms. This component is cheap on rock auto so I ordered one. My concern is the electrical connection is only showing 9.5 volts when I think it should be 12 volts. I'm going to try some electrical contact cleaner later today or tomorrow to see if there is corrosion involved. Also using a A/C vacuum pump with power applied the vacuum tube connected to the bottom port the top port has vacuum. Reverse the vacuum hose and the tube collapses from vacuum with no vacuum sucking from the bottom port. Wit no power connected vacuum from the A/C pump collapses both top and bottom tubes when vacuum applied. All vacuum test were conducted with only one plastic vacuum tube connected. Sorry about the length but I wanted to convey everything I tried so far.

Hi Joe, not sure if it holds vacuum because I only have a cheap hand vacuum pump with a gauge. I don't have a vacuum gauge that I can hook up to the A/C pump. If the 9.5v isn't a concern what about the continuity test. I saw a video on YouTube that said it should have a reading between 33 and 38 ohms. Mine starts out high and goes to zero.

Hi Joe, sorry it took so long to get back to you, but I wanted to wait until I got the new one to compare some tests. The new one starts at 32.4 ohms and rapidly goes to zero with or without 12v power attached the old one starts at 20.3 and goes to zero. I installed the new one and it made no difference to the air bag light flashing and in fact I now have an engine light on.

Hi Joe, here's what I did: I went ahead and installed the new EGR vacuum solenoid and in the process, I noticed I had the ERG position sensor unplugged when I hooked it back up the check engine light went off, but the flashing air bag light is still blinking the code 32. I ran a new scan with the OBD1 Scanner and with key off engine off there were zero codes, with the engine running but not warmed up I had codes 116,536, 538, 632 and 636. All codes had nothing to do with the EGR system. 636 and 116 were for hi/low temperature for transmission oil and coolant temperature from the engine not being warmed up. 538 was for invalid cylinder balance test due to throttle movement during test (I didn't touch the throttle), 536 brake on. Off switch circuit not activated during KOER test (I had the emergency brake applied) 632 overdrive transmission switches not activated during self-run engine test (I did not run the van through the gears while performing the test). I'm going to somehow check to see if the EGR valve is completely seating when it's closed. It looks nearly impossible to remove so I'll have to figure out how to do that test.

Hi Joe, all electrical connections from the EGR position sensor and the solenoid valve to the ECM/PCM checked out for continuity. The EGR performs as supposed to when vacuum applied. What I haven't been able to do yet is to make sure the ERG valve is seating completely. I haven't figured out what I can slip into one of the openings that's thin enough to ensure it seating all the way. When I figure something out I'll send you another reply. Oh and if the EGR needs to be replaced it's going to the shop for that.

I didn't have any carb cleaner so I used some spray brake cleaner probably just a flammable as carb cleaner. It didn't make a difference to the running engine at all.