Flashing airbag light?

Tiny
JAMES JONES SR
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 FORD E-SERIES VAN
  • 5.8L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 135,000 MILES
I have an airbag light that's flashing three times then pauses then flashes two times pause then repeats again and again. Horn and cruise both are working. I know this is some kind of code but don't know what.
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Wednesday, October 26th, 2022 AT 8:16 AM

27 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

Based on your description, it sounds like a code 32. That code is related to the EVP sensor. The EVP sensor monitors the position of the EGR valve. In this case, it indicates the voltage is less than the fully closed position. So, there is a chance that the connector is loose, corroded, the wiring to it is damaged, or the sensor itself is bad. See pic 1 below for a description

The EVP sensor is mounted at the top of the EGR valve. The EGR valve mounts on the passenger side of the engine's intake manifold. See pics 2 and 3.

Inspect the connector first and wiring first.

Here is a link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Let me know what you find. Also, let me know if there have been any drivability issues.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

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Wednesday, October 26th, 2022 AT 7:06 PM
Tiny
JAMES JONES SR
  • MEMBER
Hi Joe, thank you for your response. I have done some research and thought the code was 32. That code in my OBD1 book also stated what you have indicated in your response. I ordered and changed that sensor (wow, what a job that was) and it made no difference to the flashing air bag light. I also while I had it off checked the harness for power and had power (somewhere in the 3.5-to-4-volt range) on two of the pins. The third pin had no reading. I used an OBD1 code reader, and it does not pick up the error on it. I tried both KOEO and KOER and it still never showed a code 32. After I changed the position sensor does the error reset itself or do I have to manually reset it? I will try in the next few days what the article you attached to see what I can find out. If I find anything out, I'll send you another message.

Thank you again for your response.
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Friday, October 28th, 2022 AT 7:33 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

The idea that the airbag light is flashing indicates an issue within the SRS circuit. I attached the wiring schematics for the circuit below. I'm adding them in the event you need them.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Friday, October 28th, 2022 AT 9:45 PM
Tiny
JAMES JONES SR
  • MEMBER
Joe, I attached a sheet to show you the results of the test I performed. If you need more info let me know.
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Saturday, November 5th, 2022 AT 11:01 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

I went over what you found (by the way, nicely put together) and your voltages are good. When the EGR is fully closed, the voltage to the EVP should be between.24 and.67v and you are within that.

I have a feeling it is electrical, but have you removed and inspected the EGR to make sure it moves and isn't carboned shut? That would cause the code.

Joe
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Saturday, November 5th, 2022 AT 9:28 PM
Tiny
JAMES JONES SR
  • MEMBER
Thank you, I have not removed the EGR because its is a very cramped spot to get to. I will try to do that in the coming days.
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Sunday, November 6th, 2022 AT 6:51 AM
Tiny
JAMES JONES SR
  • MEMBER
Hi Joe, here's what I tried today. I removed the EGR valve vacuum line and used a vacuum pump to add vacuum to the EGR valve. I used a mechanics mirror to view the valve under vacuum. The valve went up when the vacuum was applied and down when I released the vacuum. I then added vacuum to the vacuum line that goes the the EGR valve and the gauge would not show any vacuum at all. I then replaced the vacuum line onto the EGR valve found the vacuum line at the Vacuum regulator or modulator (both refer to the same valve) and applied vacuum to the green vacuum line connected to the EGR valve. The EGR valve again worked as is should have. I am wondering if the modulator/regulator valve could be bad. It has green and a black vacuum line connected to it as well as an electrical connection. I can't get the connector off to check for voltage or test the vacuum regulator/modulator itself. I will try again later and get back to you. If I can get the electrical connector off what kind of reading should I be looking for and should the battery be isolated or connected when testing? I am including a URL from ebay to show you what the part looks like. Just highlight the whole HTPP: URL only then right click then select open link in a new tab.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154122841302?hash=item23e26fecd6:g:l-8AAOSwq3heqA4E&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8GJMZcHpN2HuCZTgRYA4RRSN9QOMoJLM7CNEj39MYqTivVzuUj%2BcPqPlPtYojSjS5KzgZASQeVNZrleFBWHQHaQZhnlIFzDHfCJ3%2B5IjW3mJZojy%2BhwNVufOQL0r%2Fjm3qn7gmGtUltmT9xrvp%2BHGu0nYCnESobtwYXZpVBWAnWacQwPkJs3HFNg%2B166aO7zdtEs283iSx1swcw3vxUwn1pyVNdwLkMGJh7f%2FCSWLqG7%2BzmlQC38Z%2BLshDET4rWmONgLAf4MB%2B%2FN3LjQ0TjzBmeNsM0RhFQNzXqZJpf8SrgrYlkPXFwZcQmxAvHJwVSYCKw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM3uam5Ilh
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Sunday, November 6th, 2022 AT 10:53 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

Which port wouldn't hold a vacuum? It should at all of them.

Let me know.

Joe
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Sunday, November 6th, 2022 AT 7:18 PM
Tiny
JAMES JONES SR
  • MEMBER
Neither port holds vacuum with a cheap harbor freight vacuum pump. Here's what I did today. I removed the solenoid from the vehicle, the electrical connection showed 9.5 volts with the key on engine off. Doing a bench test on the valve I removed the top cap added power from a 12v battery and the pin on top became magnetic when power was applied and non magnetic when power was disconnected no clicking heard. I also used a ohms meter to test the electrical arms where the plug connects to from under the cap. The ohm meter shows various ohm readings then goes to zero ohms. This component is cheap on rock auto so I ordered one. My concern is the electrical connection is only showing 9.5 volts when I think it should be 12 volts. I'm going to try some electrical contact cleaner later today or tomorrow to see if there is corrosion involved. Also using a A/C vacuum pump with power applied the vacuum tube connected to the bottom port the top port has vacuum. Reverse the vacuum hose and the tube collapses from vacuum with no vacuum sucking from the bottom port. Wit no power connected vacuum from the A/C pump collapses both top and bottom tubes when vacuum applied. All vacuum test were conducted with only one plastic vacuum tube connected. Sorry about the length but I wanted to convey everything I tried so far.
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Monday, November 7th, 2022 AT 1:12 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

Thank you for the update. If I understand, using the AC vacuum pump, the unit holds a vacuum. Is that correct?

As far as the voltage is concerned, 9.5v should not cause an issue. That is enough to actuate the circuit.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Monday, November 7th, 2022 AT 7:29 PM
Tiny
JAMES JONES SR
  • MEMBER
Hi Joe, not sure if it holds vacuum because I only have a cheap hand vacuum pump with a gauge. I don't have a vacuum gauge that I can hook up to the A/C pump. If the 9.5v isn't a concern what about the continuity test. I saw a video on YouTube that said it should have a reading between 33 and 38 ohms. Mine starts out high and goes to zero.
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Monday, November 7th, 2022 AT 9:34 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

As far as resistance, I need to know how high it starts. The idea that it goes to zero is odd because it indicates a completed circuit with no resistance. If it is a very short wire, that may be fine. If you move the wire around, does it increase the resistance?

Joe
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Tuesday, November 8th, 2022 AT 5:58 PM
Tiny
JAMES JONES SR
  • MEMBER
Hi Joe, sorry it took so long to get back to you, but I wanted to wait until I got the new one to compare some tests. The new one starts at 32.4 ohms and rapidly goes to zero with or without 12v power attached the old one starts at 20.3 and goes to zero. I installed the new one and it made no difference to the air bag light flashing and in fact I now have an engine light on.
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Monday, November 14th, 2022 AT 2:33 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

By chance, have you retrieved the new diagnostic trouble code since the light turned on?

Let me know.

Joe
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Monday, November 14th, 2022 AT 8:22 PM
Tiny
JAMES JONES SR
  • MEMBER
Hi Joe, here's what I did: I went ahead and installed the new EGR vacuum solenoid and in the process, I noticed I had the ERG position sensor unplugged when I hooked it back up the check engine light went off, but the flashing air bag light is still blinking the code 32. I ran a new scan with the OBD1 Scanner and with key off engine off there were zero codes, with the engine running but not warmed up I had codes 116,536, 538, 632 and 636. All codes had nothing to do with the EGR system. 636 and 116 were for hi/low temperature for transmission oil and coolant temperature from the engine not being warmed up. 538 was for invalid cylinder balance test due to throttle movement during test (I didn't touch the throttle), 536 brake on. Off switch circuit not activated during KOER test (I had the emergency brake applied) 632 overdrive transmission switches not activated during self-run engine test (I did not run the van through the gears while performing the test). I'm going to somehow check to see if the EGR valve is completely seating when it's closed. It looks nearly impossible to remove so I'll have to figure out how to do that test.
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Wednesday, November 16th, 2022 AT 6:17 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

Thanks for the update. I looked up the EGR location and totally understand your concern. LOL

Code 32 is related to the EGR/Evap. Do me a favor. Take a look at the pics below, diagnostics, and let me know if you have done these tests and the results so I know if I need to continue with the different steps.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Wednesday, November 16th, 2022 AT 8:22 PM
Tiny
JAMES JONES SR
  • MEMBER
Hi Joe, all electrical connections from the EGR position sensor and the solenoid valve to the ECM/PCM checked out for continuity. The EGR performs as supposed to when vacuum applied. What I haven't been able to do yet is to make sure the ERG valve is seating completely. I haven't figured out what I can slip into one of the openings that's thin enough to ensure it seating all the way. When I figure something out I'll send you another reply. Oh and if the EGR needs to be replaced it's going to the shop for that.
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Thursday, November 17th, 2022 AT 3:30 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

LOL I don't blame you. As far as checking if it is leaking, when the engine is cold (don't let it get hot) with the engine running, spray a bit of carb cleaner around the base of the EGR to see if the engine RPM's change. If they do, you have a leak.

Please be careful doing this. Follow the directions in this link. Again, don't spray directly at the exhaust manifold.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Thursday, November 17th, 2022 AT 4:30 PM
Tiny
JAMES JONES SR
  • MEMBER
I didn't have any carb cleaner so I used some spray brake cleaner probably just a flammable as carb cleaner. It didn't make a difference to the running engine at all.
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Friday, November 18th, 2022 AT 9:05 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

Yep, that should have done it for sure. I have a crazy question. In one of your posts, you indicated that the EGR responded as it should when the vacuum was applied. By that, did you mean the engine applied the vacuum or did you manually supply the vacuum?

Let me know. We must be missing something simple.

Joe
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Saturday, November 19th, 2022 AT 6:47 PM

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