Error code P1505

Tiny
TRACECROSS30
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 HONDA CIVIC
  • 1.7L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 227,000 MILES
I worked on my car and a week after I got done I got this code p1505 said PCV valve air leakage. I know there is no vacuum leak anywhere. So I bled the cooling system and while doing that the light went off. A week after that the light came on again with the same code and bled it again but this time it is still on and it made my idling abnormal. My IACV is new and throttle body is clean also. So I don't know what's the problem.
Sunday, January 3rd, 2021 AT 7:05 AM

15 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,328 POSTS
Hi,

The idea that the idle has been affected leads me to believe there is a vacuum leak. It may not be at the PCV. Take a look through the following and inspect the areas suggested under possible causes.

2002 Honda Civic DX Sedan L4-1668cc 1.7L SOHC MFI
P1505
Vehicle ALL Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) Testing and Inspection P Code Charts P1505
P1505
DTC P1505: PCV Air Leakage

1. Reset the ECM/PCM.
2. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on.
3. Let the engine at idle for at least 40 seconds with the throttle fully closed.
4. Check for DTC P1505 with the scan tool.

Is DTC P1505 indicated?

YES - Check these parts for vacuum leaks.
- PCV valve
- PCV hose
- EVAP canister purge valve
- Throttle body
- Brake booster hose

____________________________________

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, January 3rd, 2021 AT 8:03 PM
Tiny
TRACECROSS30
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Okay, so today I squeezed the brake booster hose with a pliers and it didn't make any difference, I move the air cleaner box from over the throttle body and cover the throttle body with my hand and it stalled out the car also, I pinch the PCV valve with the pliers too and the car stalled as well. I let the car idle until the van comes on twice, I raised the front of the car and removed the radiator cap and installed a spill free funnel and add coolant to it to bleed the system, there were air still trapped in it, but I think I got it out or most of it I should say. I even pull the ECU fuse before I leave work so while the car was idling before I add the coolant, it should doing the relearning process.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, January 3rd, 2021 AT 8:32 PM
Tiny
TRACECROSS30
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
If you look closely you can see that green cap beside the intake hose, it has something to do with the evap system. It came off while working on the car and I couldn't find it no matter how and where I look. I drove the car a day I think without that cap so I don't know if it would induce air in the system and causing rpm issue, let me know what you think.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Sunday, January 3rd, 2021 AT 10:03 PM
Tiny
TRACECROSS30
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
So I just did a test. First I pinch the purge valve and it didn't make any difference, I pinch the PCV hose again and it drop the RPM's. Now I test all three together; the PCV hose, the brake booster hose and I unplugged the IACV while squeezing the PCV and purge valve hose and the engine RPM's drop lower than it was idling but not to stall it though. I unplugged the IACV and the RPM's raised higher.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 12:50 PM
Tiny
DANNY L
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,648 POSTS
Hello, I'm Danny.

The green cap is the service port for the evaporative system. It will not introduce any air into the system. I'm more concerned with the code P0325 knock sensor issue. That would also cause your car to run terribly and shake. Here is a tutorial showing how to test electrical wiring:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

I've attached picture steps below on how to diagnose code P0325. Let us know what you find and we'll go from there. Hope this helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, January 6th, 2021 AT 9:16 PM
Tiny
TRACECROSS30
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Thank you. I haven't seen any more of the p0325 or p1505 code but I'm still having the idle issues even after I did another relearn process and bled the cooling system again this morning which I was still getting air bubbles. I don't have any of the professional tool that is use to check for vacuum leaks but I use brake part cleaning and didn't see any changes. I replaced the throttle body with one from the junkyard with all stock IACV and TPS sensor on it and still did a relearn but problem remains the same. I have one of my exhaust (manifold/heat shield bold) that threaded out, the top left one to be exact, so the bolt not tighten up that top left side that well. Could that cause the car to idle like that?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, January 11th, 2021 AT 7:35 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,328 POSTS
Hi,

If the PCV is good and all the mentioned things we discusses, the lights are off, and no leaks have been found, Based on the mileage, you may have low compression on all or one cylinder.

First, take a look through this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-low-compression

Here is a link that shows in general how compression is tested.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle:

_____________________________________________

2002 Honda Civic DX Sedan L4-1668cc 1.7L SOHC MFI
Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Vehicle Powertrain Management Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks Compression Check Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics
COMPONENT TESTS AND GENERAL DIAGNOSTICS
Engine Compression Inspection
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on).
2. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
3. Remove the air cleaner housing.
4. Disconnect all four injector connectors.
5. Remove the four ignition coils.
6. Remove the four spark plugs.

pic 1

7. Attach the compression gauge to the spark plug hole.
8. Connect a tachometer.
9. Open the throttle fully, then crank the engine with the starter motor and measure the compression.
Compression Pressure:
Above 930 kPa (9.5 kgf/cm2, 135 psi)
10. Measure the compression on the remaining cylinders.
Maximum variation:
Within 200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm2, 28 psi)
11. If the compression is not within specifications, check the following items, then re-measure the compression.
Damaged or worn valves and seats
Damaged cylinder head gasket
Damaged or worn piston rings
Damaged or worn piston and cylinder bore

_______________________________

Check this and let us know what you find.

Take care,
Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, January 15th, 2021 AT 2:45 AM
Tiny
TRACECROSS30
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
After installing the new rings, days after I installed them, I did a compression test and they were all at 180s.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, January 15th, 2021 AT 5:19 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,328 POSTS
The PCV, when inspected, was there a clicking sound in it if you shake it? I have to say it has to do with a vacuum related issue. Back to the PCV, have you tried replacing it? And are you certain there are no cracks or damage to the hose?

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, January 15th, 2021 AT 10:15 PM
Tiny
DANNY L
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,648 POSTS
Hello again.

Just curious to see if you've inspected the PCV valve and hose and the evap canister purge valve for any cracks or leaks. Let us know what you've found or if you have any further questions on this issue. Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, January 23rd, 2021 AT 4:13 PM
Tiny
TRACECROSS30
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I sprayed the PCV valve and its hose with brake part cleaner while the engine running and there was no change in the idling.

I sprayed the evap canister purge valve also and there is no difference in idling.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, January 24th, 2021 AT 7:00 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning,

I have read all the responses and I am wondering if you replaced the PCV valve. It sounds like it is stuck open and causing a massive vacuum leak.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-emission-control-systems-work

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/evap-system-code-repair

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, January 27th, 2021 AT 7:11 AM
Tiny
TRACECROSS30
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I replaced two PCV valves now and it did not make any difference.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 7:57 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Can you give me the long term trim reading off a scan tool in percentage?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/repair-lean-mixture-codes-p0171-or-p0174-on-some-manufacturers

That reading will tell me a lot about whether it has a vacuum leak.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 8:00 AM
Tiny
DANNY L
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,648 POSTS
Hello again.

Have you sprayed brake cleaner, cold start or ether around the intake manifold area to check for a leak there? Have you noticed any type of leak in that area? Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, January 30th, 2021 AT 3:33 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links