Engine will not stay running, codes P1553, P1554, P0369, P0102, P0140, P0015

Any time I get to this point we need to do one of two things. Seek a second opinion for someone to look at it with you. Or act like you have done nothing to it and start fresh.

So what is the current state of it starting? When you turn the key does the dash light up like normal and the engine crank but it doesn't start?

If so, we need to check for spark and fuel. Then check for codes and see what is active. I am not interested in stored or old codes. Only what codes are currently active.

Then to check for fuel, spray starter fluid in the intake and see if it starts for a second. For spark, remove the plug and connect the coil back to it and hold it against the block and see if it sparks when you crank the engine.

Let me know about each of these things and we can go from there. Again, don't tell me what the result was in the past. We need to do it all again in the event something is different. Making those assumptions is why we are going in circles. Thanks

Okay. So replacing plugs and coils that all failed on the secondary side got the engine to start. Now it is not starting again. I would test the coils again and see if the secondary side is failed again. These codes all point to an open circuit issue so I am thinking we have a possible driver issue with the ECM. Remind me if you replaced the ECM already or not?

Let me know if the coils are okay and we can go from there. Thanks

I doubt this is a compression issue but here is a guide if you want to check it:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Just reviewing these codes and the history on this thread, I hate to say it but it appears it jumped timing again. I see that this basically happened the same way as it did prior and you found that the timing had jumped.

If it did, then we either have a chain issue or a possible tensioner/guide issue. Basically there is too much slack in the chain and once there is tension put to it, it jumps timing and the engine cuts off.

Okay. Sounds great. Before you mess with the bolt, just push on the chain and see if there is much slack. There should be very little. It should feel pretty tight. At least that will give us some idea that we are on the right path. Thanks

Okay, so if the engine was not starting and you timed it again and the engine started and then did the exact same thing again, you have an issue with the timing chain or tensioners. It is rare but I suspect the chain has stretched and is just not tight enough so it keeps jumping time.

Clearly I am only going off what the vehicle is doing after you re-time it so I would suggest getting another chain and take the one off the vehicle and lay them next to each other. Again this simply from experience and applying that to what this is doing. If the chain is not stretched then the tensioner is loosening when the engine is running.

Great update using that video. Two things. First the metal shavings that you felt is not a good sign. Most likely that is bearing material and could cause some issues but I don't think it is causing this one. I suspect that tensioner is your issue.

I can't say I have ever checked the tension on an N52 engine but most tensioners that I have felt, I could not compress.

Here is a video of someone changing the tensioner and he squeezes the old one and it does not compress at all. Now this may still have the oil in it but even still when he is installing the new one, it appears to have a lot more tension when he is screwing it in. I may have missed it but was that a replacement tensioner or the existing one? Either way, I would get another and compare it. Even if you took that one down to the parts store and just took the new one out of the box and compared the spring tension.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5JOYuntlgA

That engine sounds like it is knocking or rattling quite a bit. Have you drained the oil and cut apart the filter to see how much metal is in it? Drain the oil into a pan and then pour it through a coffee filter to see how much metal is there.

As for the pistons, that does not sound correct. Take a look at the picture of your block with no head. 1 and 6, 2 and 5, 3 and 4 are synced together and the piston will be in the same position but on opposite strokes. So when 1 is coming up on the compression stroke, number 6 will be coming up on the exhaust stroke.

If you have number 1 and 2 at TDC, they will be on different strokes but that is not correct.

Thanks for the update. Unfortunately, we need to get a new post started and work through this issue. We need to keep each post to one topic so that others can find the issues if they have a similar one.

Glad you worked out the other issue. Here is a link to start a new post. Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new