Engine misfire

It sounds like you have an injector driver that is going out in the ECM. I would get a used one and plug it in to see what happens.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please run this test and get back to us.

already changed plugs, wires and caps. still misfiring at idle and runs very rough. checked fuel pressure, 35 psi. checked all plugs, all firing. could it be injectors?

Engine misfiring can be caused by worn or fouled spark plugs, a weak spark (weak coil, bad spark plug wire), loss of compression, vacuum leaks, anything that causes an unusually lean fuel mixture (lean misfire), an EGR valve that is stuck open, dirty fuel injectors, low fuel pressure, or even bad fuel.

I have a '90 model Ford Ranger. A couple of years ago, I had the exhaust manifold replaced and after getting the vehicle to the house, I noticed a part was missing. It goes to some pipe towards the front, but I'm not sure what the name of the part is, what is does, or if I really need it. I would be able to pick it out if I could see a diagram of the engine, but can't find one online. I was just wondering if someone could tell me where I could find a diagram online.

Thanks in advance.
Steve

Is it an egr tube...?try to be more specific.

I just looked at a picture of an 'EGR Tube".
The part is NOT an EGR Tube.

Thanks.
Steve

Nobody will put diagrams on the internet. They are available in a service manual from store or possibly the public library.

I think whats missing is part of my 'air cleaner assembly'. Is that possible? And, if so, would that cause me to have 'hard start' problems? My truck runs great, but it takes 3 or 4 attempts to start it. I hear the fuel pump come on and stop before trying to start the truck, but I still have to pump the accelerator for it to start.

Thanks.

No I doubt the air cleaner part would cause that. I would consider getting a pressure check done on the fuel system. You may have an injector or two that leak and reduce the pressure of the system. It could be a fuel filter issue or a fuel pressure regulator.

im not sure but could it be a preheater hose thats missing?

Engine is running rough at idle and all speeds and cold or hot.
I checked compression ,plugs, fuel rail pressure, changed DIS module, tested coil pack ok. I put a timing light on all 4 cylinders right side. They all did the same. It will have a series of flashes than a skip (no flash) about every second or less. I made sure it wasn't just a defective timing light by hooking it to my Escort and there were no skips ,just a steady flashing.
What could be causing this missing. Since it has a right and left coil pack(8spark plugs) Would the right and left coil packs both have to be skipping to cause the engine miss?

Hi BILL DISTEL, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

Clean out the idle air control valve and EGR and PCV valves and test the throttle position sensor and also clean out the MAF sensor with an electronic cleaner CRC

I was driving one day n my truck lost power and it was like it was running on two cylinders and I could smell fuel strongly. I replaced the coil pack plugs and wires and it ran OK for about a week. The truck has eight plugs and wires I didn't replace the other coil pack that's under the alternator. The symptoms are loss of power when it warms up. And it will run like crap for 5 minutes then it fixes itself then its up down up down .

scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it

the truck did not have any misfires that I could tell. Although since day one it felt like it was very weak on power even for a 2.3 engine. The other day while idling it started misfiring on at least one cylinder, sometimes two. And it is then that I noticed I have never seen the check engine light ever come on. So with a couple of ignition on and off I confirmed it does not come on.

I am sorry i never got to my question. My question is can I go the the wire that would flash the check engine light with a test light and kill two birds with one stone by either receiving the code(s) for the (misfire which I think are fuel related)and or determine if the ECU is bad by not getting signal back to the check engine light. When i jump the eec diagnostic plug does not that send the light flash signal back to the dash through a bus port. or does that come straight from the ECU? if it comes of the plug what wire would it be? Thanks and sorry for the incomplete first message.

This link gives you the method to retrieve OBD1 codes from Ford.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/ford-lincoln-mercury-obd1-1995-and-earlier-diagnostic-trouble-code-definition-and-retrieval

Engine misses at idle and black soot from tailpipe.

Good afternoon,

I would check the compression first to be sure there is no internal issue in the engine.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Roy

Hello,

I can not figure out why my engine runs great while engine is cold, as soon as the engine temperture is up to normal operating temperture. The engine starts missing at speeds around 35 to 45 mph. If you decelarate or accelerate above or below these speeds engine stops missing. Please email any info. that might help me.

Thanks

Jerry

Sounds like it may be the EGR pulling on too soon and making the engine lean. Try unplugging the vacuum line to the EGR valve and see if it still does it. Dont forget to plug the vacuum hose.If it sets the check engine light, unhook the neg batt cable for a few minutes and it will clear it

I have a V-6 2.9 Automaitc 1989 Ford Ranger. When you first get in and drive it will run smoothly without any problem. After a few minutes though it looses power. It will barely run 35 mph with the peddle pressed all the way the floor. Plus it will also start knocking real bad. What can cause this?

[quote:b47e2e2798="LittleDiesel07"]I have a V-6 2.9 Automaitc 1989 Ford Ranger. When you first get in and drive it will run smoothly without any problem. After a few minutes though it looses power. It will barely run 35 mph with the peddle pressed all the way the floor. Plus it will also start knocking real bad. What can cause this?[/quote:b47e2e2798]





















Is it overheating?
Check all your fluid
Check fuel pressure
Check the cat converter

not in first gear but in second and third, and possibly fourth and fifth, and when the rpms hit anything over 3000 the truck bucks and misses so badly it almost bounces and today coughed out some black smoke. it runs okay up till 3000. replaced plugs and wires and cap/rotor and it seemed to help a little but not enough. truck engine also never warms up, its about freezing when i go to work and it stays cool for the fifteen minute drive.

your vaccum timing advance might be on the fritz. that would be the cheapest thing to fix so hope its that. check your vaccum pressure. the 6cyl has a 2 barrel carb right? maybe one of the jets is blocked and your engine might not be getting the right amount of air/fuel mix. it could also be the little resevoir and float acting up and not letting enough fuel get in.