Engine shuts off when shifting transmission into gear

Tiny
EBL
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 3.8L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 165,000 MILES
Pull up a chair. Van went into limp mode and showed engine codes suggesting Solenoid pack was bad. I bought one and installed it, pretty easy and cheap vs a $1,200.00 quote for the work. A roommate gave it a test drive while I was cleaning up and came back and s. Aid it drove just fine. When we went to start it, the van was completely dead which was eventually tracked to a the negative battery terminal somehow losing contact with the grounding bolts, a little time with a file to take some paint off and problem solved. However, during the time trying to track it down I dove into the electronic connectors under the dash where the BCM lives and disconnected and reconnected some of the large connectors there. Once the grounding issue was fixed the van started right up but we didn't drive it for a few days thinking all was well since it had performed fine on the test drive. My mom drove it and said started out rough, surging and jerking but smoothed out and she drove it about 15 miles and other than starting out a little rough it seemed okay. I finally got to drive it and it was a bit the same way to start, a little surgery and jerky but seemed to settle down but then started dying when placed in gear with the brake on, D and Reverse. Kind of a clunk and shudder and the engine stalls. Sometimes coming to a stop it would idle normally in neutral but buck pretty violently when pulling away from the stop. Sometimes I would have to start it in neutral, rev it up and drop it into drive without the brake on and just hold on is it jerked. Once up to speed it seems okay but starting and stopping were a challenge and right now I'm nervous to actually drive it anywhere. If I start it in the driveway and put it gear, it stalls as described above. I have taken the air intake off, re-seated the solenoid pack connector and speed sensor connector, and taken the dash under the steering wheel off and tried re-seating connectors there as well with no luck. I'm not sure if there is a bad sensor or the solenoid pack relearning is a really rough process - but it did the initial drive after the install without this issue. I may have messed something up pulling connectors under the dash and it did sit for a day or so with no power while I figured out it wasn't grounded. I'm not quite sure what to look at next and am open so suggestions and ideas.
Tuesday, May 5th, 2020 AT 10:24 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning,

Are there any codes set?

When t stall putting it in gear, it could come from a couple things.

If the idle air control is not working properly or the throttle body is dirty, it will do this.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-idle-speed-control-motor-iac

Also, if the torque converter in the transmission is locking up, it would do it as well.

What were the codes that were set that lead you to replace the solenoid pack?

Roy
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Wednesday, May 6th, 2020 AT 7:38 AM
Tiny
EBL
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
The codes were:
P0700 Transmission Fault
P0750 Low Reverse Circuit Error
P1755 2-4 Solinoid Circuit Error
P1782 2-4 Pressure Switch Error
P1784 Low Reverse Pressure Switch Circuit
P0760 Overdrive Solinoid Circuit Error
P0734 Gear Ratio Error in Forth
P1781 Overdrive Pressure Switch Circuit

Currently not showing a check Engine light - has been off since replacing Solenoid pack. It is idling fine but dying when placed in gear with the brake pedal depressed. I'll check into the things you mentioned though. Would a torque converter fail without any warning or degradation?
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Wednesday, May 6th, 2020 AT 5:09 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Wow, that is a lot of codes.

So, none have come back? That is good. As far as the converter, yes, it can fail at anytime.

Roy
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Wednesday, May 6th, 2020 AT 5:13 PM
Tiny
EBL
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Probably 20-30 miles on it since the solenoid pack replacement and no codes. This does seem beyond the solenoid pack just relearning the shift points? I'll try to do some cleaning on the air intake system tomorrow. I normally own stick shifts, I'm guessing a torque converter is a fairly major replacement?
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Wednesday, May 6th, 2020 AT 6:08 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Yes, it requires removal of the transmission and it is right in the front and just pulls out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

Roy
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Wednesday, May 6th, 2020 AT 6:14 PM

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