Driver side vents blow warm air/passenger cold

TIMW30189

MEMBER
2010 FORD EXPLORER
6 CYL
4WD
AUTOMATIC
107,000 MILES

Hi, I just bought this SUV. The passenger side is cold and the drive side console vent and driver side next to door blow slightly warm air. At first I thought there were two separate blend actuators and that the driver side had just gone bad. When I was replacing I tested the old one after I took it out it worked fine. I manually closed the blend door and I still get the warm are out of the driver side but it seems the door is working okay.

I did put the new blend actuator on since I was not sure of course, I still have the same problem. Changing the mode from floor/console to defrost all seems to work okay. The air coming to the rear seats does not seem like a lot and its the warmer air as on the driver side. I have been on the internet for two days trying to figure this out. I see lots of replacing the actuator videos but not much on the blend door it self, or any thing to help figure out if its the source of this problem. I would greatly appreciate someones advice.

3 Replies

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
108,192 POSTS

Welcome to 2carPros.

The component you replaced is the only thing responsible for the air temp entering the vehicle. I attached a picture of it to confirm you got the right one.

Now, are you sure there is power to the actuator? You mentioned it worked after you removed it. I just wondering if there is an issue with power to it.

Here are the directions for testing the system electronics. The attached picture will correlate with these directions so you know which pins on the connector to check. You will need a multi meter or volt meter and some general testing knowledge. Here are a few links you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

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PINPOINT TEST O: THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL IS INOPERATIVE/DOES NOT OPERATE CORRECTLY - MANUAL CLIMATE CONTROL
Climate Control System

Pinpoint Tests

Pinpoint Test O: The Temperature Control is Inoperative/Does Not Operate Correctly - Manual Climate Control

Refer to Wiring Diagram Set 54, Manual Climate Control System for schematic and connector information. See: Vehicle > Electrical > Diagrams By Number

Normal Operation

Under normal operation, the temperature blend door actuator receives voltage and ground. As the temperature selection changes it varies the voltage to the temperature blend door actuator from the temperature selector.

This pinpoint test is intended to diagnose the following:
- Fuse
- Wiring, terminals or connectors
- Temperature control switch
- Temperature blend door actuator
- Stuck or bound linkage or door

PINPOINT TEST O: THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL IS INOPERATIVE/DOES NOT OPERATE CORRECTLY - MANUAL CLIMATE CONTROL

O1 CHECK THE VOLTAGE TO THE BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR

- Ignition OFF.
- Disconnect: Temperature Blend Door Actuator C2091.
- Ignition ON.
- Measure the voltage between ground and temperature blend door actuator C2091-7, circuit CBP20 (YE/VT), harness side.

pic 1

- Is the voltage greater than 10 volts?

Yes
GO to O2.

No
VERIFY Battery Junction Box (BJB) fuse 20 (10A) is OK. If OK, REPAIR circuit CBP20 (YE/VT) for an open. TEST the system for normal operation.

O2 CHECK CIRCUIT GD140 (BK/GN) FOR AN OPEN

- Ignition OFF.
- Measure the resistance between ground and temperature blend door actuator C2091-8, circuit GD140 (BK/GN), harness side.

pic 2

- Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?

Yes
GO to O3.

No
REPAIR circuit GD140 (BK/GN) for an open. TEST the system for normal operation.

O3 CHECK THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL POTENTIOMETER TOTAL RESISTANCE

- Ignition OFF.
- Measure the resistance between temperature blend door actuator C2091-7, circuit CBP20 (YE/VT), harness side and C2091-3, circuit VH439 (GY/VT), harness side.

pic 3
- Is the resistance between 30 and 1,600 ohms?

Yes
GO to O6.

No
If the resistance is less than 30 ohms, GO to O4.

If the resistance is greater than 1,600 ohms, GO to O5.

O4 CHECK CIRCUITS CBP20 (YE/VT) AND VH439 (GY/VT) FOR A SHORT TOGETHER

- Disconnect: Climate Control Assembly C294C.
- Measure the resistance between temperature blend door actuator C2091-7, circuit CBP20 (YE/VT), harness side and C2091-3, circuit VH439 (GY/VT), harness side.

pic 4

- Is the resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?

Yes
INSTALL a new climate control assembly. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
REPAIR circuits CBP20 (YE/VT) and VH439 (GY/VT) for a short together. TEST the system for normal operation.

O5 CHECK VH439 (GY/VT) FOR AN OPEN

- Disconnect: Climate Control Assembly C294C.
- Measure the resistance between blend door actuator control connector C2091-3, circuit VH439 (GY/VT), harness side and climate control assembly C294C-3, circuit VH439 (GY/VT), harness side.

pic 5

- Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?

Yes
INSTALL a new climate control assembly. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
REPAIR circuit VH439 (GY/VT) for an open. TEST the system for normal operation.

O6 CHECK THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL POTENTIOMETER OPERATION

- Measure the resistance between temperature blend door actuator C2091-7, circuit CBP20 (YE/VT), harness side and C2091-3, circuit CH439 (GY/VT), harness side while rotating the temperature control potentiometer from full WARM to full COOL.

pic 6

- Does the resistance vary between 30 and 1,600 ohms?

Yes
GO to O7.

No
INSTALL a new climate control assembly. TEST the system for normal operation.

O7 CHECK CIRCUIT VH439 (GY/VT) FOR A SHORT TO GROUND

- Disconnect: Climate Control Assembly C294C.
- Measure the resistance between ground and blend door actuator C2091-3, circuit VH439 (GY/VT), harness side.

pic 7

- Is the resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?

Yes
GO to O8.

No
REPAIR circuit VH439 (GY/VT) for a short to ground. TEST the system for normal operation.

O8 CHECK FOR A BINDING, STUCK OR BROKEN BLEND DOOR

- Ignition OFF.
- Remove the actuator.
- Inspect for a binding, stuck or broken blend door or linkage.
- Is there a binding, stuck or broken blend door or linkage condition?

Yes
REPAIR the blend door/linkage. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
INSTALL a new temperature blend door actuator. TEST the system for normal operation.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions. Since the actuator is new and the door isn't stuck, it has to be an electrical issue to the actuator.

Take care,
Joe

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Saturday, May 18th, 2019 AT 9:25 PM

TIMW30189

MEMBER
2 POSTS

Good Day Joe,

Thank you for responding so quickly. I want to say first I am appreciative for people like you on the internet willing to share their expertise.

I will perform these tests but I should have been more clear in my write-up that the new actuator does work when I turn the temperature control knob full clockwise definitely get full heat out of both registers. It's when I turn it full counter-clockwise that I only get the cold air on the passenger side. The driver side fills as if warm air is mixing in with the air (its not hot like when the temperature control knob is turned full clockwise).

I stuck my fingers through the holes of the HVAC box ( not sure of the right terminology) that are exposed when I removed the vent that directs air to the floor (by your feet) I could feel the blend door moving.

I was wondering if its the blend door not sealing completely. But, would this cause just the driver side to be warm? It's just one blend door.

Another question I have, if you are in A/C mode is there still going to be coolant flowing through the heater core? If that were shut off that would at least help if there was leakage around the bend door.

Thank you, Tim

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Sunday, May 19th, 2019 AT 6:53 AM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
108,192 POSTS

Welcome back:

You are very welcome. I just hope I can help. LOL

Honestly, since there is only one blend door, like you say, it should be the same on both sides. The only thing I can think of is if there is a leak in the duct. Have you checked for anything like that?

This vehicle does have a heater control valve. I am going to provide the directions for removal and replacement so you can see location. Also, it is operated by engine vacuum, so make sure nothing is disconnected and there are no vacuum leaks preventing it from working. Here are the directions. The attached pictures correlate with the directions.

______________________________

HEATER CONTROL VALVE
Heater Control Valve

picture 1

picture 2

Removal and Installation

Vehicles with 4.0L and oil cooler, without auxiliary climate control

1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Vehicle Jacking and Lifting.

All vehicles

2. Drain the engine coolant. For additional information, refer to Cooling System &/or Engine Block Heater.

3. Disconnect the 2 inlet and outlet heater hose clamps.

4. Disconnect the heater control valve vacuum hose.

Vehicles with 4.0L and oil cooler, without auxiliary climate control

5. Remove the heater control valve bolt.

All vehicles

6. Remove the heater control valve.

7. NOTE: Lubricate the coolant hoses with plain water only if needed.

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

8. Fill the engine cooling system. For additional information, refer to Cooling System &/or Engine Block Heater.

___________________________________________

As you can see, it is connected in the heater hose. Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

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