1998 Dodge Intrepid car no go go

Tiny
RDRNNR
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 DODGE INTREPID
Engine Mechanical problem
1998 Dodge Intrepid 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

this morning it took about 30 to 45 min to start my car and in the course of my going 300+ miles to get to work it has since died about 12 to 15 times today. Sometimes it starts right back up other times it takes a bit (sitting waiting, priming the fuel system, waiting, more priming, etc.) Initially thought it was the fuel pump but would that cause it to die at 80 MPH. And it seems to run fine if I keep the engine over 3000 RPM (which got me clocked at over 90 i'm sure state patrol loved that ticket). The tricky part is that sometimes it dies at a stop light sometimes its fine, but it seems like in general (once I get it running) if I keep the engine speed up it stays running. Been running rough till it heats up for a long while.
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Sunday, November 23rd, 2008 AT 2:54 PM

29 Replies

Tiny
JAMES W.
  • MEMBER
90 mph plus, huh? I didn't think an Intrepid would go that fast. Anyway, assuming you have no check engine light. I would check the EGR valve to see if it is hung open or a major vacuum leak. With all that's going on with the engine, I would expect a check engine light. Do you have one, and if so, what are the codes. Please advise.
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Sunday, November 23rd, 2008 AT 4:27 PM
Tiny
RDRNNR
  • MEMBER
The wyoming patrol clocked me at 93 speedo said I was only doing 90 though had it up to about 117 before. No check engine light this trip. When I was working on it last week I had one that was p1493 so I hooked the temp sensor back up on the front bumper and I can't remember what the other one was I thought it was for the fuel loop coolant temp and I regularly get a p0306 for a misfire on the #6 cyl.
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Sunday, November 23rd, 2008 AT 4:47 PM
Tiny
RDRNNR
  • MEMBER
Would the egr valve being stuck even wide open keep the car from starting and make it die at random at highway speeds. And I seem to be having some dificulty locating my egr valve
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Sunday, November 23rd, 2008 AT 4:55 PM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello -

Since Mr Weizel is already assisting you I have provided info where the EGR valve is to aid him in your response to get your car fixed quicker. You might also let him know if your car is a 2.7L VIN R or a 3.2L VIN J. The VIN is the 8th digit of your VIN number. Also is your model just a Intrepid or Intrepid ES?

1. The EGR valve attaches to the rear of the right cylinder head.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_EGR_1.jpg


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Sunday, November 23rd, 2008 AT 8:01 PM
Tiny
RDRNNR
  • MEMBER
My car is the 3.2L ES model the exhaust system seems different than any I can remember seeing it looks like the manifolds against the heads come up to the front on both sides then 90 out on each side then go straight back to the cats and back I don't see anything tying off of them. Its almost like the exhaust goes from the back straight to the front then straight out to the back again, dunno how else to explain it.
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Sunday, November 23rd, 2008 AT 8:20 PM
Tiny
RDRNNR
  • MEMBER
And how loud should the fuel pump be. This morning where it took 30 to 45 min to start the car. Then I went to prime the fuel system (key off to on to off to on to off) of the 5 times I put the car to on to prime I only heard the fuel pump (i think it was the fuel pump) the last 2 times (but I also have a loss of hearing) and now where I am lucky to get the car to start at all more than 2 to 3 secs. When the problem seemed to clear up at 3000 RPM plus I was wondering if it could be tied to the throttle positioning sensor. As it stands I am 300+ miles from home, starting another 2 to 3 week run at work here at about 0300 and about 3 weeks from my next paycheck (so i'm pretty much screwed) thats why i'm hoping to get this resolved asap for as little as possible.
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Sunday, November 23rd, 2008 AT 8:38 PM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello -

This one is for the 3.2L


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_Picture1_14.jpg




http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_Picture2_12.jpg

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Sunday, November 23rd, 2008 AT 8:40 PM
Tiny
RDRNNR
  • MEMBER
I unplugged the egr unit from the harness and managed to get a p0406 code from it but it still won't start
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Sunday, November 23rd, 2008 AT 8:49 PM
Tiny
LERVIN
  • MEMBER
I don't know if it will help you but to help you get oriented with your engine you should know that it does not sit transverse like most front drive cars. From the way you are describing the exhaust manifold it sounds like your confused (sorry). The engine is mounted like a rear wheel drive car. Longitudinal.
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Wednesday, November 26th, 2008 AT 9:35 PM
Tiny
RDRNNR
  • MEMBER
What would keep the fuel pump from operating. All the symptoms I can think of point to the fuel pump but I replaced it and I still can't hear it when I turn the car to run and the car still won't start. Seems like its not getting fuel. Also when I dropped the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump there were only about 2 to 3 drops of fuel that came out.
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Thursday, November 27th, 2008 AT 2:34 PM
Tiny
RDRNNR
  • MEMBER
And now the only way I get the starter or fuel pump to work is to use jumper wires in place of the relays and I don't seem to be getting any signals from the computer (using the code scanner and the turning the key off to run 3 times).
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Thursday, November 27th, 2008 AT 4:39 PM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello -

It has been a little bit since the last post. Is your vehicle still giving you the same problem and if so can you provide an update or if it is fixed now, please let us know.
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Thursday, December 4th, 2008 AT 9:30 PM
Tiny
RDRNNR
  • MEMBER
I took it to the shop who charged 500.00 and said it was a broken wire from the ignition to the pcm. Problem is the fuel gauge still doesn't work and if it was the pcm I would have gotten a no link message from my code reader when I tried to read it. So as it stands the vehicle runs but I don't know for how long till it decides to go on me again.
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Friday, December 5th, 2008 AT 6:19 PM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello -

On the fuel gauge...I did find a TSB that you could check on a bad wire connector under the seat.

If that isn't it then it is probably the sender on the fuel pump. If it were me....if I went to the trouble to drop the tank....I would change the entire fuel pump.

Last, you may have some recalls on your vehicle. The dealer may fix these for free. Please contact the dealer service department, give them the VIN number of your car and have them check on these to see if they apply to you.

Fuel System - MIL ON DTC Set/Driveability Concerns
Notes

NUMBER: 08-35-99

GROUP: Electrical

DATE: Oct. 8, 1999

SUBJECT:
MIL Illumination, Leak Detection Pump DTC and/or Fuel Gauge Inaccurate

OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves replacing the inline fuel tank to left body harness connector with a sealed connector.

MODELS:
1998 - 1999 (LH) Concorde/Intrepid/LHS/3OOM

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
MIL illumination with Leak Detection Pump (LDP) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC), fuel gauge reading inaccurate, fuel pump not working, and/or engine run-on.

DIAGNOSIS:
Using the Mopar Diagnostic System (MDS2) and/or the Diagnostic Scan Tool (DRB III) with the appropriate Diagnostic Procedures Manual, verify all engine/transmission systems are functioning as designed. If non-LDP related DTC's are present, record them on the repair order and repair as necessary before proceeding further with this bulletin. If Leak Detection Pump DTC's are present, and/or owner describes an inaccurate fuel gauge or engine run-on, inspect the C308 wire connector located under the rear seat cushion for the presence of moisture and/or corrosion. If moisture/corrosion exist, perform the Repair Procedure.

PARTS REQUIRED:

1 05013984AA Insulator/Terminal Repair Kit
1 05013988AA Insulator/Terminal Repair Kit
12 04778570 Heat Shrink Tubing

POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.

TIME ALLOWANCE:

Labor Operation No: 08-90-73-90 0.8 Hrs.

FAILURE CODE: P8 - New Part

Repair Procedure
Notes

1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery remote cable.

2. Locate and remove the existing C308 connector by cutting the five wires (LDP equipped)/three wires (non-LDP equipped) on each side of the connector. Stagger cut all wires on the harness sides at 1/2 inch intervals.

3. Remove 1 inch of insulation from each wire on the harness sides.

4. Stagger cut the matching wires on the repair connector assemblies in the opposite order of the harness stagger.

5. Remove 1 inch of insulation from each wire on the repair connector.

6. Place a piece of heat shrink tubing over one side of the wire.

7. Spread the strands of the wire apart on each part of the exposed wires.

8. Push the two ends of wire together until the strands of wire are close to the insulation.

9. Twist the wires together.

10. Solder the connection together using rosin core solder. Do not use acid core solder.

11. Center the heat shrink tubing over the joint and heat using a heat gun. Heat the joint until the tubing is tightly sealed and sealant comes out of both ends of the tubing.

12. Repeat steps 6 through 11 for each wire.

NOTE :ALL CAVITIES IN THE SIX-WAY INLINE CONNECTORS, ON BOTH SIDES OF THE CONNECTION MUST BE FILLED WITH TERMINATED WIRES. ANY WIRES THAT ARE NOT USED MUST HAVE THE NON- TERMINATED END SEALED WITH HEAT SHRINK.

13. Re-tape the wire harness and connect the connector halves.

14. Connect the negative battery remote terminal.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_Picture6_11.jpg

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Saturday, December 6th, 2008 AT 8:19 PM
Tiny
RDRNNR
  • MEMBER
When I had the tank dropped I did replace the full assembly (fuel pump, tank sending unit, etc.) Where is the C308 connector mentioned in that tsb I seem to have the same and reversed symptoms. (The fuel gauge is random, but instead of running on the vehicle dies on the road) I am thinking a bad connection thru the plug its mentioning removing "may" help if not then I am where I am now and resolve a tsb on my car
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Saturday, December 6th, 2008 AT 9:14 PM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello -

Sorry - read right through that.....yes.....you did replace the pump.....

That TSB says it is located under the rear seat: inspect the C308 wire connector located under the rear seat cushion for the presence of moisture and/or corrosion

I have attached a pic.....


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_Picture14_6.jpg

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Saturday, December 6th, 2008 AT 9:32 PM
Tiny
RDRNNR
  • MEMBER
I didn't find a plug to replace but there is quite the pool/puddle under the back seat. But I think I am going to try and dry out the puddle as much as I can and see if I can find where the plug used to be and see if there are any breaks in the wiring or insulation. I really really appreciate all the help I am recieving from you guys. I have been repairing my own vehicles for 15 years or better and yall are pointing out areas that I had never thought of.
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Saturday, December 6th, 2008 AT 9:49 PM
Tiny
RDRNNR
  • MEMBER
WOW. I think I found the c302 plug it has 3 wires on one side and 5 to 6 in the other side. The side with 3 has corrosion coming out of the ports on the plug and 2 of the wires are bare and shorted enough to melt half the plug, the other side has the same corrosion coming out of the plug and wires corroded all the way through. I am about to do the bypas mentioned in the tsb. But I am pretty sure this will solve the problem. I will keep yall posted with how it runs.
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Saturday, December 6th, 2008 AT 10:16 PM
Tiny
RDRNNR
  • MEMBER
Do you happen to know which wire goes to where there are 3 coming in 6 going out
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Saturday, December 6th, 2008 AT 10:30 PM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello -

Yes please do.....I thought the TSB said connector C308......I have attached that info.

I am showing 302 by the door /body area........

Interesting - if I remember the TSB it does talk about corrosion etc.....

If you do find the wires/plug....be sure to check all over for that corrosion....that could go deep into the wire and be causing problems.

Though it said under the seat......what about under the car......where the seat is?

I just checked another manual and it says C308 is in the trunk area.

I have attached another pic.....it looks to me like the wire colors are Dark Blue, Dark Green, Orange, Dark Green w/White Tracer, Black, and Light Green w/ Black tracer.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_Picture15_6.jpg

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Saturday, December 6th, 2008 AT 10:33 PM

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