No power to my coil

You know we need more details than that. What kind of problem are you trying to solve, and is there any relevant history that led up to it? Can you hear the hum of the fuel pump for one second when you turn on the ignition switch? Sometimes the chime is too loud for that, so consider listening at the tank while a helper switches the ignition switch on.

I don't know what "nothing" means. Do you mean you checked the relays and they weren't there? There's nothing wrong with them?

If you can hear the fuel pump run for one second, we know the automatic shutdown relay is turning on and the Engine Computer has control of it. Next we need to determine if it turns back on during engine rotation. That means you have to check for 12 volts to the ignition coil for that initial one second or while a helper cranks the engine. There had better not be 12 volts to the ignition coil when the engine is not cranking or running. If it's easier to take a measurement on, you can use either smaller terminal on the back of the alternator, or the wire that is the same color at every injector. That's usually a dark green / orange wire, but on some models it's dark green / black.

Have you read the diagnostic fault codes yet? If you have, what were the numbers? You can go here:

https://www.2carpros.com/trouble_codes/obd2/p0300

to see the definitions, or I can interpret them for you.

If you can't hear the fuel pump run for one second when the ignition switch is turned on, try banging on the bottom of the gas tank while a helper cranks the engine. That often gets them going when the brushes in the pump's motor are worn from high mileage. If the pump starts running, the engine should run until the next time you stop and then try to restart it. The same problem might not occur again for months, or it could occur the very next time, but either way, that type of problem will get progressively worse over the next few months.