No spark to coil

Check fuses Locate and check or replace ASD relay Check if have power to coil when key on and engine cranking If so check and suspect coil. Here is a guide to help check the ASD and the location of the relay.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

Crankcase sensor was changed, still no spark to coil through computer (original)
replaced computer with one from salvage yard still no spark to coil tried computer different year and got spark won't start! Then got a new ASD started right up! I love this site.

Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

I new plugs new cap new coil still no spark

No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors- Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

Hello my dakota died going down the road and wouldnt restart so I got to looking around and decided to change the crank sensor ok truck runs for 10-20 min dies no ground pulse from pcm to coil. Ok play around for a day nothing got another crank sensor truck ran for 10-20 min died again no ground pulse. Ok so I buy a new cam sensor no change no start. Ok I confirmed circuits good 8.75v on orange wire connects to #7 of pcm ok 5.0v on gray/black wire connects to #24 of pcm. Ground checks out good. Ok so I monitor for for signal reaching pcm it does. All same for cam sensor but I still cannot get a ground pulse from the pcm to the coil. It just stays constantly grounded. Forgot to add have replaced computer also

You know, I read this post today at 8:30 AM. It has been on my mind all day. Something just popped into my mind about the problem, now that it is 11:00PM. On the passanger side inner fender is a huge wiring harness to the PCM. If I remember correctly, there is a wiring splice about 1 to 2 feet into the harness. (It has been a while so bear with me). If I remember, the wire is either white with a red tracer or red with a white tracer and where the splice is located, the solder and joint corroded causing a bad connection and the loss of spark.

Check into that. It has been about 10 years since I delt with the last one, so check all splices in that area or a corrosion issue.

Let me know what you find. Also, the wire colors I listed (I think) are correct. Again, check all splices. I know it wasn't more than 2 feet into the harness, so you will need to cut the friction tape to access it.

Joe

Ok will check it out I checked all splices under the Power distribution center I will pull the harness apart on the passenger side tomorrow after work. I do belive you may be on too something because thinking about it almost every time I have really dug into that area to change out crank sensors the truck has started and ran for few minutes. Do you know what this wire controls? Because I can read the computer so it shouldnt be power. Unless its a secondary or something because I cant never seem to clear code 12. BTW code 12 and 55 is all the computer gives me even after a failure of spark in mid running.

I wish I could remember. Like I said, it has been awhile. It drove me crazy yesterday thinking about it because I remembered dealing with similar problems in the past. The wire had delt directly with the ignition system receiving power, but the exact thing, I can't remember.

Please let me know what you find. This is driving me nuts too. I wish I was there to dig into it.

Ok took cover off of entire harness from pcm to pdc discovered the garage we paid to install a new wiring harness used one from a diffrent year and had to splice all the sensor connections with the ones from the old harness the factory splices you mentioned were found I found about 6 total within 3 feet from the pcm. All factory splices are perfect. However the masses of tape the garage used to retape after there splices was full of chalky yelowish green powder I think it is wire corrosion in fact I almost know it is but it was all through the tape does this happen? I havent had a chance to check these makeshift splices the garage made. I ran out of daylight so guess thats for tommorow. Also the part of harness that is split by a big plug and runs down to crank sensor and back along the transsmision to the vss and heated o2 sensors all the wires that rest on the back of the engine head are stuck together not melted there just all fused together do you know if they used an adhesive on the wires? Im surprised that I the crank and cam sensors circuit are still good despite the mess this harness is in. Its killing me to know why the computer holds a constant ground on the coil. I know the coil circuit is good not shorted to ground.

They don't use an adhesive. The wires must be partially melted together. As far as the green residue you mentioned, that is the corrosion that I mentioned. It sounds like you have a nightmare on your hands. The ground issue could be one of the wires that are partially melted together.

Take your time and try to repair what was incorrectly done. I believe you found where the problem is located, now which wire is the problem is the next thing.

Let me know what you find.
Joe

1993 Dodge Dakota no spark and no fuel pressure change crankshaft sensor and pick up in distributor still nothing no power to coil either don't no if should have power to coil when key is on

Welcome to the forum, are there any codes? The asd relay supplies primary voltage to the coil-- injectors-- 02 heater circuits. It's best to check with engine cranking. The asd relay and fuel pump relay share the same ground circuit, so, no ground, neither relay will work. I'd have to check voltage and ground circuits at relays. If the computer isn't grounding those relays, I'd have to check the wiring circuits for the cam and crank sensors. Those are usually, ref voltage-- ground and signal.

My truck was running ok, then one day it would not start after driving it for a while. After about 15 minutes it started. A couple of days later, it won't start still. Ran a wire from the positve cable to the coil and it started, but removed wire and it died. Replace plugs, rotor, wires, cap, ignigtion starter switch (my friend said it may be bad), and the coil. Still no spark from the coil when turning over. Any help would be huge.

Ran a wire from the positve cable to the coil and it started, but removed wire and it died.

The ASD relay powers the coil swap/replace it and see what happens

I relaced the ASD Relay, which was actually bad, and it still will does not get power to the coil or the fuel pump. A jumper wire to the coil gets the pump going. What else could it be. As I said before, I replaced the ignition starter switch, ASD Relay and regular tune up items. What next?

Check for power at the ASD relay socket red wire -you should have it, if not test the white fusible link

Yea, I checked it out before I installed the relay and it had power. I was so bummed when it didn't start because it made so much sense that it would be the problem, especially since the old one had arc marks all over it and had a 2/97 date on it so it had been replaced before. Any other ideas? Could the PCM be bad?

Where Does The Coil Get It's Current From? I Can Not Get A Spark To The Distributor If The Coil Does Not Have Current From Where Ever It Comes From To Enable It To Be Able To Sent A Spark To The Distributor. So You See I Need To Know Where The Coil Gets It's Current From So I Can Check And See Why It Is Not Sending Any Current To The Coil So That It Can Send A Spark To The Distributor.

Could be the PCM not grounding the ASD relay to transfer power to the coil/fuel pump