Check engine light

Tiny
DAKOTATRUCK04
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 DODGE DAKOTA
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 112,000 MILES
While driving Check engine lite came on. The fuel quantity went to zero and low fuel warning lite came on. The truck was recently fuel.
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Monday, August 31st, 2009 AT 11:11 PM

72 Replies

Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Well sense the engine light came on lets see what the truck can tell us and see if it is related to you problem with the fuel guage. If you would call around to you local parts stores and find one that will do a free scan and have it scanned. Write down the codes and then have them clear the codes. Now get back to me with the codes and I will look them up and see what needs to checked or if it is related to you problem. Thanks.
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Tuesday, September 1st, 2009 AT 10:37 AM
Tiny
LIONNUT
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 DODGE DAKOTA
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 49,000 MILES
My engine light was staying on, so I purchased an OBDII code reader. I received a P0038 code (HO2S bank 1 sensor 2 heater circuit high). After talking to the local Dodge dealer, they suggested that it was the driver side downstream O2 sensor. After purchasing a new Bosch #13687 sensor, I installed it. With the ignition off, I removed the old sensor and repalced it with the new one. After taking out the old sensor, I noticed that there was a spot where the insulation had been worn off all the wires. I assumed that there probably was a short causing the error. I then reinstalled the code reader and erased the code. I started the truck up and the engine light was off. After driving the truck for a while, the light remained off. The next time I drove the truck, the light came back on and stayed lit. I reinstalled the code reader and received a P0141 code (O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction bank 1 sensor 2). I tried clearing the code but after starting up the truck and driving it the second time, the light stays on and I get the same code again. What do you think the problem could be?
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CH112063
  • MEMBER
Hello, if it shorted it may have done something internally to the PCM which gives it it's power. It may need a new PCM. I would start iy up, use a test light to check if it has voltage on one of the wires, if not trace it back. Check another o2, if it's ok and the first problem o2 doesn't have power it may need a computer. The dealer has the DRBIII to check it and reset it. Ok Sorry, hope this helps. The heater circuit gets the sensors hot faster.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BSTP123
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 45,100 MILES
My 2004 Dakota pickup has the engine light on, I need to know were I will find the 02 sensor, bank 2
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Need the engine size in liters, there are three sixes used on this... Unless you know where the #1 cylinder is, that's bank 1 the other side is bank 2, there will be 2 sensors on each side for dual exhaust, and one each side(upstream) before the cat, and one after the cat.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_I6_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_V6_2.jpg

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+1
Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SNOREMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 54,000 MILES
Engine light flashing. 2004 Dodge Dakota SXT started bucking. When I step on the pedal it will lose power. Turn the engine off and it doesn't want to start up. Is it a fuel problem? I don't know.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CEXPT
  • MEMBER
Check engine light on

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Have the computer scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine management system that caused the CEL to turn on-This is your starting point of diagnosis,finding out what's going on.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WIRESHORT64@HOTMAIL.COM
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 130,000 MILES
The radiator blew up on me. I replaced it. But the truck will not start because the auto shut down engaged.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
The ASD relay and circuit have nothing to do with the radiator. Clearing codes won't make the engine start either. What are the codes? Does the ASD relay turn on for one second after you turn on the ignition switch?
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LIONNUT
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 DODGE DAKOTA
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 49,000 MILES
Engine code
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Check engine light on have to scan for codes

try this some Chrysler product will allow you to get the codes by cycling key on off 3 times ending with key ON

read trouble codes in the odometer area

Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) can be retrieved using scan tool. Connect scan tool to Data Link Connector (DLC). DLC is located below instrument panel near steering column.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_5239bl_7.jpg

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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JASONPYZO
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 4.7L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 48,000 MILES
Hey fellows, I was wondering what is a good all around scanner tool for the ABS systems for trouble shooting and performing service to the system like cycling the solenoids when pressure bleeding after brake service? Also, maybe one that is not just for that truck but other vehicles also. Thanks
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
I have a Chrysler DRB3 for all of my vehicles. Nothing does more than that one, but 2004 was the first year Chrysler started using the "CAN BUSS" system. They only used it that year on Dakotas and Durangos, so the DRB3 will not work. You can get extra plug-in cards that allow it to work on all Chrysler products back to 1983, and one of those cards lets it do emissions-related stuff on any brand of car sold in the U.S. After 1996. A lot of independent shops bought them for that reason. I bought mine through the dealership I used to work for. Those needed to be updated too periodically, but the dealer did that for free for me and for any shop that bought those scanners through them. The last models they worked on were a few 2007's or 2008's, Jeeps, as I recall.

One of the most popular scanners is the Snap-on Solus Edge. They will do more than most other aftermarket scanners, but Snap-on is like GM, VW, BMW, and Audi in that they have very customer-unfriendly business practices. I recently looked into buying one of these for my 2014 Ram truck, but changed my mind when I saw the cost of updating it. My friend has one, and I am just going to use his when I need it. You can find these quite reasonably on eBay, but Snap-on is not satisfied with charging almost $4,000.00 for a new scanner. You have to pay extra for most of the connectors and cables, and they really get you when it comes to the annual updates. Those are around $1,000.00 per year, and you cannot skip any years. These scanners lose their value very quickly when they are a year or two out-of-date. You can find them for less than $1,000.00 if they are only updated to 2012, for example. If you want to update it 2017, you have to buy the updates for 2013, 2014, 2015, and 2016. You cannot just buy the latest update. If I could update once every five years or so, with just the current version, I would have bought one. Also, notice how many of these are listed for sale with problems or "for parts". Replacement battery packs cost about three times the typical cost for a laptop battery. Basically you can expect to pay double for anything that says "Snap-on" on it. Repair costs are also unreasonably high. The salesmen use that as leverage to get you to buy a new scanner.

Another customer-unfriendly business practice is they offer diagnostic tips online, but you can only access that if you have the latest update. Just like those car companies, they are more interested in quick profits at the expense of customer loyalty or satisfaction. My community college will not buy Snap-on products for their Automotive program for these reasons. Repair parts are also unreasonably expensive.

You might talk with the guys who drive the tool trucks around. They typically show up at most repair shops once a week. Any mechanic can tell you when they will be at certain places. Be aware the employees usually are only allowed on those trucks during mid-day breaks or lunch breaks, so you might have to wait until they finish their business. Ask the drivers what they have in their "used drawers" or what kind of trade-ins they have at home. Sometimes they have a sale pending for a new scanner, and will complete the sale when they find a buyer for their customer's old unit. These used scanners allow you to try them before you choose which one to buy.

If you are on a friendly basis with the people at some local shops, stop in and ask if they have plans to upgrade to new equipment. Often they are on the fence, and finally decide to make a purchase if they can sell some older stuff. In the case of my 2014 truck, I will probably buy a used scanner a few years from now when the price is low, but it will have everything I need, so I will never update it. I keep my vehicles until they rust away, so I will probably never own a newer vehicle.

You might also search eBay for Genysis, MAC, Matco, and Monitor products. The Genysis products used to be real popular, and I think the MAC scanners are a version of them. Pay attention to what they charge for updates, what is involved in doing them, and if you can skip some years. I suspect those companies are going to have the same customer-friendly business practices as Hyundai, Toyota, and Chrysler. My first scanner was a Monitor 4000, which was cutting edge when I bought it in the early 1990's. It was almost identical to the older Chrysler DRB2, and was built by the same manufacturer, OTC, (Owatonna Tool Company). Those use a plug-in cartridge, and you update it by buying the latest cartridge. My latest only goes to 1994, but it works on my 1994 and 1995 Grand Caravans. I have an ABS cartridge for it, but I never tried using it since I have the DRB3. I do not know how new that cartridge goes to, but the scanner does not work on the 1996 and newer vehicles with the OBD2 emissions system.

There are other units on eBay that claim to be for Engines, ABS, and Air Bag systems, but I would be careful with unreasonable expectations. I have never used any of those, so I do not know what their capabilities are.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JASONPYZO
  • MEMBER
Hey bud, I really appreciate all that information. Man I did not know it was going to be that extensive and I am really grateful for the time you took explaining this to me and a direction to go. Thanks again my friend. :)
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Surely. If you find a scanner you like, post a reply with what you found and why you like it.
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LAZAROR
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 4.7L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 667 MILES
I just had an engineering company rebuild my motor they have everything you need in the shop to do this.
5 weeks I get my truck back and first thing I notice was my muffler was making noise. Then I notice I had a power steering leak. Ok at 165000 before that normal wear. Then a couple of week later my idle start to run high and truck want to keep driving by its self. I hooked up my code reader and it says code 507.

So I decide to inspect there work I under a lot about mechanics just lack tool and experience need to preform some repairs. So the first thing I notice was the lower radiator hose camps wear not tighten down properly, then I see one of my pig tails retaining clip was not pushed in. Then I found a retain clip in my bumper splash guard. Then I see my oil dip stick nut was not fasten down all the and was rubbing up against my throttle cable.

Theres more my transmission cooling lines were not secured and I don't if a overhaul means you blast the block then or just paint right over the rust but it looks like thats what they did and a incomplete job at that because I can still see rust in some spots. I called they said bring will look at but I don't want to get it back and have more problems when I get back then when I took it in! Plus not have my truck again for 5 weeks!

So I tighten ever bolt and clamp that was loose secured everything that was not fasten check and clamped all the vacuum line / hoses. Replaced gas cap and I am currently in the process of replacing power steering pump and pressure lines. Also I got a new muffler installed!

Im just wondering if I start up and still get the code 507 how I can figure out where the vacuum leak is to get the idle back to normal running RPMs? Will I need to take to them so they can drop the output program in my PCM?

2004 Dodge Dakota Sport Plus Quad Cab 4x4 4.7L automatic
The BCM time and alarm module is damaged I don't know if that matters or not.
My research says IAC valve check but I need to have my PCM reprogrammed?

It costs me $4000 for the rebuild too!

Horn Automotive Engineering
Marion, Iowa
319-377-0190

Whats Next? LOL!
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
That code is for the IAC. Basically, the computer realizes that the engine is idling too high. Several things can cause this:

Bad Idle Air Control Motor
Vacuum leaks
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Defective Charging System/Alternator
Defective Power Steering Pressure Switch

It's odd that you have an idle issue and PS issue too. Have you checked the PS pressure switch?
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOKER13
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 DODGE DAKOTA
2004 Dodge Dakota V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

we just change the oil and now the check engine light wont turn off I was wondering what was the gauge check order thanks
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
What I recommend is to take the truck to a nationally recognized parts store and have them scan the computer for codes and reset it.

Let me know what code you find. Also, most will do it for free.

Joe
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SMORRIS073
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 DODGE DAKOTA
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 101,002 MILES
I have an engine light, I'm getting four codes- 204,207, 551 and 121? I'm sure one is setting off the other can you lead me in the right direction
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)

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