1992 Dodge Dakota 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 168xxx miles
Ok this is what happen. I was low on gas so I drove to the gas station to fill up. After I filled up I pulled in to the highway. As I got on the high way it start to drive fine but after a minute or two it started to sputter and misfire. So I pulled it over and parked it. I though at first I got bad gas so I siphon some gas out of the tank but it looked good. So then I checked the spark on the ignition coil and it was red not blue. So I figure the problem is electrical. I had the coil tested and it passed. I then started to look at the distributor and the pulse ring in the distributor was rubbing the pick up coil so I replaced the distributor and pick up coil. It sounds better at start up but after it starts it bogs down and starts to misfire. If you give it gas the truck doesn't really know what to do it doesn't rev it feels like the engine is trying to shut itself off as if it is retarding the timing. It seems like its out of time but had the #1 piston at top dead center.I never moved the engine when I replaced the distributor so it should have been in time when I replaced it. I though it maybe the timing chain because of code 11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking but I want to be sure. I was told it was the timing chain or crank sensor? What else can I test?
What is the engine capacity?
Was the trouble code erased and retested?
The title heading was truncated due to lack of space so the last part is missing. Can you please update on it?
Code 11 = No reference signal during cranking. This could have been set when the distributor failed. If the code is new, the replacement distributor could be bad as well.
Code 12 is not listed in our database but it should be related to the distributor as well. Reconfirm the code.
Code 22 = Coolant sensor voltage too low or too high. A possible fault with the coolant sensor and that can cause difficult starting and poor running.
Code 32 = EGR solenoid circuit or EGR system failure.
Code 37 = Torque converter lock-up solenoid circuit open or shorted detected.
If the distributor is adjustable, it is possible the ignition timing is incorrect due to the installed position.
I would suggest erasing the trouble codes, run engine and recheck the trouble codes.
August, 8, 2010 AT 12:47 AM
I reset pcm and same codes. I didn't move the engine when installing distributor and I check three times and ever time I checked top dead center the rotor was pointing to the number one cylinder mark on the pick up coil. I checked the crank senor and at 20k resistance I got 5.5 is that good or bad? The last code was 55 which means end of codes
August, 8, 2010 AT 1:03 AM
What is the engine capacity? There are a few variations and have different testings procedures and specifications.
August, 8, 2010 AT 2:09 AM
It is a 3.9 v6 auto
August, 8, 2010 AT 2:38 AM
See if the following helps. It is for setting the ignition timing. If it fails, either the diatributor is bad or the PCM has failed due to the old distributor shorting out.
Set motor up to number one compression, and keep turning the crank until you get to the V6 mark on the balancer and align that on the zero mark on the timing cover. You may have to sand on the balancer to reveal the V6 mark, but it is there. Then with your DVOM hooked to the signal wire of the cam sensor, turn the distributor until you see the meter deflect from zero volts to five volts, and try to get the distributor set in a place where it is in the middle of zero and the five volts, and lock down your distributor there.
August, 8, 2010 AT 11:02 AM
Where is my cam sensor? I though this truck doesn't have one. Do I hook it up to the pick up coil? Can I test my pcm?
August, 8, 2010 AT 12:31 PM
The cam sensor mentioned is located inside the distributor. It is also known as sync pick-up. But for Code 11, the problem is more likely to be the crank sensor.
TEST NS-9A - REPAIRING FAULT " NO REFERENCE SIGNAL DURING CRANKING" 1. Disconnect crank position sensor, located on engine block at rear of right cylinder head. Turn ignition on. Place DRB-II in voltmeter mode. Probe Gray/Black wire in crank position sensor connector. If voltage is greater than 4.5 volts, go to step 4). Turn ignition off. Disconnect engine controller 60-pin connector. Place DRB-II in ohmmeter mode.
2. Probe engine controller connector terminal No. 24 (Gray/Black wire). If resistance is less than 10 ohms, repair Gray/Black wire for a short to ground. Perform VERIFICATION TEST VER-1. If resistance is 10 ohms or more, check continuity of Gray/Black wire between engine controller and crank position sensor connectors.
3. If resistance is less than 10 ohms, replace engine controller. Perform VERIFICATION TEST VER-1. If resistance is 10 ohms or more, repair open Gray/Black wire. Perform VERIFICATION TEST VER-1.
4. If voltage is greater than 4.5 volts in step 1), probe Orange wire in crank position sensor connector. If voltage is 7.5 volts or less, go to step 6). If voltage is greater than 7.5 volts, turn ignition off. Place DRB-II in ohmmeter mode.
5. Probe Black/Light Blue wire in crank position sensor connector. If resistance is less than 10 ohms, replace crank position sensor. Perform VERIFICATION TEST VER-1. If resistance is 10 ohms or more, repair Black/Light Blue wire for an open to splice. Perform
VERIFICATION TEST VER-1.
6. If voltage in step 4) is 7.5 volts or less, turn ignition off. Disconnect engine controller connector. Place DRB-II in ohmmeter mode. Probe engine controller connector terminal No. 7. If resistance is less than 10 ohms, repair Orange wire for a short to ground. Disconnect battery quick disconnect. Reconnect battery quick disconnect. Perform VERIFICATION
7. If resistance is 10 ohms or more, check Orange wire for continuity between engine controller and crank position sensor connectors using a DVOM. If resistance is less than 10 ohms, replace engine controller. Perform VERIFICATION TEST VER-1. If resistance is 10 ohms or more, repair Orange wire. Perform VERIFICATION TEST VER-1.
VERIFICATION TEST VER-1
1. Inspect vehicle to ensure all engine components are connected. Reassemble and reconnect components as necessary. Attempt to start engine. If engine does not start, return to TEST NS-1A.
2. If engine starts, engine controller was changed and vehicle is equipped with factory theft alarm, start vehicle at least 20 times so alarm system may be activated when desired. Write vehicle mileage from its odometer to memory location within replacement engine controller. This will enable new engine controller to operate Emission Maintenance Reminder (EMR) light properly. On all models, no-start condition is corrected and repair is now complete.
3. If engine starts and engine controller has not been changed, connect DRB-II to engine diagnostic connector, and erase faults. No-start condition has been corrected and fault messages have been erased. Repair is now complete. If repaired fault has reset, check if any TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETINS (TSBs) apply to vehicle. Return to TEST DR-1A if
necessary. If another fault exists, return to TEST DR-1A and follow path specified by other fault.
There are no recommended way of testing the PCM. Usually the circuit concerned is tested and if everything is confirmed to be good, the PCM is recommended to be substituted to test.
August, 8, 2010 AT 3:31 PM
Thanks for the help tonight I'll do these tests and let you know my results.
August, 8, 2010 AT 11:17 PM
OK so I got the truck in time. I changed the crank sensor. I took out the old one and it was rubbing on the flywheel. I then used a timing gun to get the distributor in time. It starts up but then it dies like as it is out of gas. When I push on the fuel release valve on the fuel rail fuel comes out but so does a lot of bubbles and it seems to be more bubbles then gas so i'm getting air in the fuel line. I think either I have a leaking hose or where the fuel lines meet the rail the quick connects are leaking. Tomorrow or the next day I'm going to check the fuel psi at the fuel rail. What should my fuel pressure be and what else can I check that works with the fuel?
August, 10, 2010 AT 9:23 AM
The fuel pressure should be 39 psi +/1 2 psi.
When there are too much bubble in the system, it might be due to the fuel pump not working or insufficient fuel in the tank.
Check if the fuel pump is priming when ignition is turned on.