ENGINE STALLING

Tiny
MARKEDINRED
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 DODGE AVENGER
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 34,442 MILES
What causes the engine to stall when stopped at lights? I've had it in several times to dealership however stalling does not register on computer and they are unable to recreate problem. When vehicle is idling, the rpms are running at about 500, then a sudden drop under that and it stalls. No lights come on the dash to let me know it has stalled. Also, putting car into reverse or drive from park will cause it to stall intermittently, and putting rear defrost will cause the rpms to drop enough to stall it. Originally would only happen when outside temp was above -5 (Canada) however after dealership cleaned fuel injection system and put gas line antifreeze in it now happens at -18. Please give me some ideas so I can take them to the dealership and congratulate them on letting me do their job!
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Monday, February 2nd, 2009 AT 7:08 AM

26 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi:
I would start by checking for vacuum leaks. Also, the engine should idle at 900 RPS in park and about 700 in gear. When you put the rear defrost on, it is putting enough load on the alt to kill the engine at such a low idle. If I had to guess, I would say there is a problem with the throttle position sensor, but I can't guarantee that without a check engine light and code. Since you are not getting that, I would check for vacuum leaks.

Also, the car has a 5 year 50K 100% warranty on emission components, so any sensor or emission component is covered parts and labor. Maybe you could ask them to replace the TPS under warranty. Also, if the car keeps dieing on you, it is a hazzard. If you purchased the car new, they have 3 chances to repair a potential dangerous problem. If they can't fix it, it may qualify for the lemon law.

Check for vacuum leaks and see if they can bump the base idle up to the RPM I mentioned. If there is a vacuum leak, usually you can hear a hissing sound.

Joe
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Tuesday, February 24th, 2009 AT 6:18 PM
Tiny
KCARR
  • MEMBER
Hello, This sounds like the same problem I had. The car would stall when coming to a stop or shifting into gear (rev or forward). It would also Idle low 500-700. When I would give it gas it would hesitate, almost like it would want to stall. I have it in the shop now. They just called me and said it's the EGR Valve ( Exhaust Gas Recirculation). They said they were able to disconnect it and drive around, They said that did not stall when disconnected. But they have to instal a new one for enviromental reasons. Part is around 75.00. Hope this helps you. I will let you know when I get the car back.

I have had the car back for over a week now. Problem fixed. It was the EGR Valve. Hopefully I can get another 130,000 miles on it.
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Friday, March 13th, 2009 AT 5:21 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
I don't know how many miles or the year of your car, but that falls under the emissions warranty, 5 years or 50K with a 0 deductable.

Make sure it is covered under warranty if you can.

Joe
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Friday, March 13th, 2009 AT 11:23 PM
Tiny
RPLEB35
  • MEMBER
This happened to my Avenger also at 34,000 miles. I took it to the dealer and they had a rash of Avengers come back in the last few weeks because of the same problem. They were told by Dodge to redo the TPSM recall. They told me that salt build up on the original TPSM recall still would make the car stall. Not sure if that is right but its been a week and my car is running ok. For now.
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Monday, January 11th, 2010 AT 8:47 PM
Tiny
ARCH1
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 DODGE AVENGER
  • 50,000 MILES
I was driving and the car felt like it had no power and it cut off. A couple of times it did it on the driveway as I was warming the engine.
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Thursday, January 24th, 2019 AT 2:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
Hello,

This sounds like the TIPM is going out but to be sure lets run the codes to see what comes up here is a guide to help us get started.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Thursday, January 24th, 2019 AT 2:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ARCH1
  • MEMBER
It started but sluggish and it ran normal for a couple of weeks but it did it again today. The check engine light is off so I have not checked any codes. Also I dont know if this is related but my alarm went off twice this morning by itself.

Thank you for you help
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Thursday, January 24th, 2019 AT 2:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
I dont think the alarm going off by itself is related we need to see if there are any codes. That will really help narrow down this intermintant problem. If you find any codes olease ket me know the exact code numbers not code descriptions.
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Thursday, January 24th, 2019 AT 2:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ARCH1
  • MEMBER
I took the car into the dealer they replace the TIPM cost me $340.00. I wished I checked it myself would have saved $$$ thank for your help through. I love this site.
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Thursday, January 24th, 2019 AT 2:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
Use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help. Please tell a friend.
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Thursday, January 24th, 2019 AT 2:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DANI3586
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 DODGE AVENGER
  • 58,000 MILES
I have a 2008 dodge avenger. I was in idle for about 10min. When I went to reverse, the engine sounded really rough, like it was running really hard. I shut it off, turned it back on and it started hard. I parked, went to shut it off and the engine would not stop running but it did not sound normal. It was running really hard. I tried multiple times to start it back up but the engine would not turn over. It finally just died. I tried again about 3min later and it was as if nothing happened. The car started fine. I since then have tried starting it about 6-10 times and there seem to be no issues. Please help!
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Thursday, January 24th, 2019 AT 2:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Next time it refuses to start don't wait for it to make up its mind-do below immediately to determine if its fuel or spark problem

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if okay-check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, cap and rotor, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing
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Thursday, January 24th, 2019 AT 2:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JELICOKD
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 DODGE AVENGER
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 33,616 MILES
Every time it rains, my engine will cut off while driving when I come to a stop light or stop sign. Also the transmission seems to slip. I took it to the dealer for a diagnostic test and they found nothing wrong with it. It seems like moisture has an effect on it. What could be the cause?
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Thursday, January 24th, 2019 AT 2:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ERBRECHT
  • MEMBER
I have a 2008 Avenger with the same problem. Just wondering, did you ever get it fixed? I have been having a hard time getting to the cause of it. Thanks.
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Thursday, January 24th, 2019 AT 2:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MISTYCOMPTON
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 DODGE AVENGER
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 48,326 MILES
My car is stalling when coming to a stop and when started and put into drive or reverse it will lose power and stalls too. Here lately it has also been stalling driving down the road while moving. It is becoming a hassard. Once the check engine light came on and the codes came back as misfire on coil 4 plus spark plugs. They change spark plugs and cleaned the throttle plate. When we got it back home it started doing the same thing. Seems like you have to be driving the car for 30 mins and turning the air condionting on really kills the rpms. It also losses power while driving and the stalls once rpms are low. Here this last time it did it while I was sitting there tring to start the car back and it was just cranking and cranking, then cranking its self lights started blinking simontaniouly together it was the check engine light and the electronic throttle light with dinging. Its in the shop now but I dont trust our mechanics around here. Do you have any answers for me? I ve already told them what the car was doing but like all things it wont do it for them. Im think about going back to them and get the car to do it because it sure does it on me every time I get in the thing. Please help.
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Thursday, January 24th, 2019 AT 2:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
The loss of power makes me question the catylatic converter, which is under 100% factory warranty. However, the flashing lights. Sound like a problem with the security system. Does the car have a factory security or has an aftermarket one been added? Also, do you know what codes they actually got when they scanned the computer?

Let me know.
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Thursday, January 24th, 2019 AT 2:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SUMMER123
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 DODGE AVENGER
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 35 MILES
2008 dodge. Accelorated 4 times on me.3 times while driving.4th while idleing. Took to garage first time, they said nothing showed on scan. Then second time taking to garage, they changed the throttle control sensor. Now the car stalled at stop sign. Felt a jar, then it quite. Then again I came to a stop sign. And I felt a jar (like someone hit me from behind) then my car reved. All while I had my foot on the break. But this time it didn't stall.

What is going on.I've been told all about computers having to learn a persons driving. Etc. Just not a good enough excuse, after putting out that kind of money. Can someone help me pls. Ps. They said they put a flight recorder on already.I'm insisting one be but on again. As the car is acting up more and more frequenty. HELP PLS
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Thursday, January 24th, 2019 AT 2:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi:
It sounds like a throttle position sensor or idle air control valve. Has the check engine light ever come on? Also, don't let shops put aftermarket parts on the car at this point. All emission components (sensors) are under 100% warranty for 5 years or 50K.

Take the car back, have them ride with you and feel the problem. This is a serious issue and they have 3 times to repair it (if you got it new). If they can't fix it and it is a hazard, it falls under the lemon law. If the car accelerates on it's own, it is a hazard.

Let me know what happens or if you have other questions. Remember, any emission component is fully covered parts and labor.

Joe
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Thursday, January 24th, 2019 AT 2:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SIRGREGORY1ST
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 DODGE AVENGER
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 189,000 MILES
At first car only stalled occasionally on deceleration then after a week stalled every time I decelerated (stop signs, turns and seems to occur under 1000 rpm) at first idle was fine but now idles rough and dies sometimes when idle but always dies when I slow down. Car runs a lot better when cold but after 1/4 mile of driving will die when decelerating. Drives fine when not slowing down and slows down fine until under 1000rpm.
Took it in and mechanic replaced: valve cover gaskets, cleaned the EGR, new wires, new plugs, idle speed control motor/valve, and changed the oil. He said there is a map sensor error causing the engine light and replaced the map sensor but car is exactly the same as before. He gave up (cost me a so much and same problem please help). He said take it to dealer and maybe replace the computer (he said that would be expensive. Just the new plug wires cost $200 and he thinks this will be expensive! God only know s how much that will cost me. I have read a lot of the same problem but all treads just seem to ask the question with no answers. He also recommended me junking the car. :-0 because of the high miles but I cant afford that. Currently I shift to neutral on deceleration and use left foot for break while maintaining 1500 rpm with right foot sometimes I cut it too close and engine drops from 1000 to 0, when I try to push the gas to compensate (if that happens) there is a lag but sometimes it takes just before it dies and rev's to 3000 and hold s for 5 sec or so before drifting back down if that helps any.

Ok been about a week, am I doing something wrong with this post, I tried to give as much info as I could. Why is no one responding? Not even an "I don't know"? I didn't mention high miles meant 180000.
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Thursday, January 24th, 2019 AT 2:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SIRGREGORY1ST
  • MEMBER
I replaced the PCV Valve ($3) myself and the gasket it fits into the valve cover at ($4). Figured what would it hurt at that price. But no change. It actually seemed like it was fixed for 15 min. It started without having to push on gas and idled down to 500 rpm with no problems, drove it around the parking a while and thought the 7 bucks did the trick drove it home 10miles parked in the drive way idling, went in the house to leave short note for my wife and when back out and it had died. Was back to exactly how it was before.? Still need help please someone's had to have this problem before and found a solution. Dies during deceleration, after a week of that it will no longer idle and now will not start with out pushing on the gas.
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Thursday, January 24th, 2019 AT 2:45 PM (Merged)

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