Cranks but will not start

Tiny
KNKCARPROS
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 HYUNDAI TUCSON
  • 2.7L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,000 MILES
Condition: Vehicle was running fine. I stopped to check mail after thirty kilometer trip (left it running) and noticed a slight rough idle. Drove vehicle half kilometer backed into driveway, shut down. Attempted to remote start five days later, vehicle cranked fine but would not start. Further attempts failed.
I attempted to start in warmer and dryer weather with the same results.
Security/remote start system has been problematic in the past but has never caused a no-start condition. Remote was installed by Hyundai in 2007 to 2008. Suspect factory security inhibitor?

1) Fuel pump will intermittently purge with key in on no start position. Will not purge while cranking engine. By passed relay which activated pump delivering fuel to injector rail. Replaced fuel pump relay with equivalent with same results.

2) Spark, no.

3) Injector pulse, no.

4) Check hood switch, okay.

5) Check fuses and relays, okay (under hood and in cab).

6) Replaced CPS (three prong harness engine side prong one Ground good, prong two or center five volts and prong three no volts).

7) Injector wire harness engine side, 4.3 volts K on EO, .63 volts on other. Not switching.

Have tried every security reset on the web.
Saturday, October 21st, 2017 AT 5:16 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 43,110 POSTS
When you are cranking the engine over is the security light flashing? If not it sounds like the engine control module is not powered up. I know you said you checked the relays and fuses but I would double check them especially the main relay. The injector supply voltage should be 12 volts not 4.3 so I am thinks we are missing a voltage supply to the module or the PCM is bad.

Here are some guides and diagrams to help you do some testing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

(Diagrams Below)

Please let us know what you find. I'm interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken
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Monday, October 23rd, 2017 AT 1:15 PM
Tiny
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Hello Ken its Ken. Thanks for getting back. As long as I have owned this enigma of a vehicle I have never seen a security light of any kind. I took your advice & rechecked to no avail. I forget to mention that the MIL Lt illuminates KO, no codes with CTC scanner and checking main power wire from relay to/at ECU has 12V. I'm not feeling too good about that ECU, but I am not a believer in throwing parts at something till it's fixed. Thank you for the schematics. After leaving DND free tech info is hard to come by. I will send an update on the outcome.
Cheers
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Monday, October 23rd, 2017 AT 3:24 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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Hi Ken! Please do, we are here to help.

Cheers! Ken
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Tuesday, October 24th, 2017 AT 11:58 AM
Tiny
KNKCARPROS
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  • 4 POSTS
Hello Ken
Well this is what I sent to Corp HQ after my run in with the dealer. Please have a read as it is very interesting. Of course many things could be picked out of this which I did not elaborate on such as "A known good sensor" when the vehicle has more than one not setting codes but I digress please indulge. Feel free to comment.

Page 1 of 4
Please see page 3 for the start of details as this letter is in regards to a dealership that has left a once enthusiastic Hyundai customer bewildered and disenfranchised. Pages 1 and 2 are what I left in the vehicle for the service department.
Ken *********
(H) **********
© **********
5** S****** St
F***** S******
*0*1**
Ont
18/07/2006 Hyundai Tucson GL 4WD, Auto V6 2.7L 144000KM
VIN: ***********************
Condition: Vehicle was running fine. I stopped to check mail after 30 K trip (left it running) & noticed a slight rough idle. Drove vehicle  K backed into driveway, shut down. Attempted to remote start 5 days later, vehicle cranked fine but would not start. Further attempts failed.
I attempted to start in warmer & dryer weather with the same results.
Security system has been problematic in the past but has never caused a no-start condition. Remote was installed by Hyundai in 07-08. Suspect factory security inhibitor?
1) Fuel pump will intermittently purge with key in on no start position. Will not purge while cranking engine. By passed relay which activated pump delivering fuel to injector rail. Replaced fuel pump relay with equivalent with same results.
2) Spark, NO
3) Injector pulse, NO
4) Check hood switch. OK
5) Check Fuses & Relays, OK (under hood & in cab)
6) Replaced CPS (3 prong harness engine side prong 1 Ground good, prong 2 or center 5V & prong 3 no V)
7) Injector wire harness engine side, 4.3V K on EO, .63V on other. Not switching.
8) MIL LT illuminates KO/EO. No codes with scanner.

Page 2 of 4
-Air bag light came back on 2 months after service. See Hyundai service maint, warranty replacement of driver’s seat sensor.
-Horn N/S for past year just stopped working.
-Cruise control N/S for 1 year also just stopped working, few months after air bag indicator.
Lock driver door then passenger door with the key wait 5 mins then unlock the driver door with key and then passenger door with key but don't open the doors when you first unlock it then after all doors un lock then hold foot on brake then insert key turn it to on position while holding brake down
then release brake then compress brake 3 times and then turn the key to off position. This should reset the security system for you

1) Point the wireless transmitter at the and click the "Unlock" button, which has an image of an open padlock.
Use the ignition key to unlock the doors, then open the door and enter the driver's seat.
Put the key into the ignition and turn the ignition cylinder clockwise as far as it will go before cranking the engine. Leave the key here for 30 seconds to deactivate the system.
Unlock the car with the key then press/hold the lock button on the remote for 30 secs. Or lock the car with the key and press/hold unlock button for 30 secs both should work.
"Yes. Followed ur advice, but after 30 secs of pressing the lock button, had to then simultaneously press the alarm button. This worked! Thanks"
Unlock the car, get in and close all doors. Turn the ignition key to ACC, press the Unlock button till blinkers flash. That's it. Get out of the car and see if it works.

Hyundai Security Reset Method
Call to the dealer, here is their response: Hit the unlock button on the fob three or four times and press panic button once. Lock and unlock the driver's door using the key.

Page 3 of 4
In regards to service at Hyundai, #### ******** Blvd, P********, ON K** ***
Pages 1 & 2 are what I left in the vehicle for Hyundai P********. I informed the service department at P******* Hyundai that information would be on the passenger seat and reiterated this to the tow truck driver who said he would mention it to them upon arrival. I have not perused continuous phone calls as my feeling is that the dealer should be diligent in regards to customer satisfaction. The events developed as follows.
October 2017
Called Hyundai P******** at the beginning of October 2017 and spoke with R***. I informed that I required service for my 2006 Tucson and asked if I had it towed in could they have a look at it. They were very busy but should have time.
Had vehicle towed to P******* Hyundai on October 20 2017 through North ******** towing. Vehicle left my home address at 1400h
October 25 2017
As I was in the area I went to speak with the service department on 25 Oct @ 1400. I spoke with R***. This service rep told me the dealer was very busy & had no chance to examine my Tucson, I informed R*** of the extent of diagnostics I had pursued and mentioned that I did not believe in throwing parts into a vehicle in the hope of arbitrarily repairing and that was the reason I had it towed to a qualified Hyundai repair facility. “We have to start somewhere” was the conversation after discussing problems related to the vehicle. Requested 2 hours diagnostics time in which I agreed to. **** Informed me that their best electronics tech would look into the problem and should have an answer soon.
November 06 2017
A**** called and left message in the morning of November 06 2017. I called back to the dealer in the afternoon and spoke with A****. I was informed that the engine compartment fuse panel was corroded & required repair and a relay may need to be replaced as the fuel pump did not seem to be activating. I asked him if this would resolve the no start and he commented he was “97% sure it would”. The bill quoted to me at that time was $400. An extra 3 hours labour would be required for repairs.
November 17 2017
As I have had no response from the dealer since November 6 2017 I decided to stop in at P******* Hyundai 17 November 2017 around 1400h. Spoke with J*** in service that went to the service bays to inquire about the progress on my vehicle. Upon this service reps return I was told the shop was very busy but would have their best electrical tech (B**) look into it & the dealer would be in touch when
Page 4 of 4
there was more information. I asked J*** if perhaps I should have it taken else ware if they are too busy to diagnose and repair, I was assured there was no need for that and I left.
As I left I noticed the vehicle in the overflow parking on the service side of the building. It looked as if it had not been attended to for a lengthy period.
November 30 2017
C****** from P******* Hyundai called my home number, November 30 2017 at 1000h and spoke to my partner P**** and inform her that the Tuscan was running. P**** mentioned some other service concerns to C****** in which he knew nothing about. The air bag light is still illuminated showing a fault. Keep in mind pages 1 & 2 were left with the dealer and mentioned to the service department upon my first visit.
December 01 2017
Dropped in at Hyundai P******* to pick up vehicle, C****** had stated that it was running and ready for pickup. When I got to the dealer I inquired about the issue with the airbag light. I was informed that the mechanic pulled a code that indicated a faulty front collision sensor circuit. The sensor could be the problem or perhaps it could be in the wire harness. I asked if a proper diagnosis could verify the faulty component and the response from the mechanic (B**) was the “sensor would have to be tested against a known good one”. I was also informed that the vehicle had extensive wiring concerns. The labour and part to replace the sensor would be $400+ and would not guarantee a repair. The entire harness would need to be replaced if found faulty after throwing parts into the vehicle. I was also informed that the brakes were binding and needed service. The rear struts were in dire need of replacement. There was according to the service department a problem with the shifter (stiff & difficult to engage). I decided to take the vehicle and leave after paying the $400+ bill.
I started the vehicle and proceeded to place it in drive. The vehicle would not engage unless I was very forceful with the shifter into drive (D). I also noticed the traction control indicator flashing indicating a fault. These conditions were NOT present before service at the dealer. I shut down the vehicle and went back to discuss the conditions with service.
I eventually asked to speak with the service manager, D****. I asked D**** if he would like to talk about my concerns in private and he decided to discuss the issues at the counter.

Page 5 of 5
I mentioned that the conditions with the vehicle were not present prior to the “repairs” and he advised me it may be a wheel sensor or something of the sort but word have the mechanic look into it. The dealer would get back with a verdict by Monday. D*** also expressed he was not happy that the vehicle was in the shop so long.
December 05 2017
C****** called to inform me the vehicle was ready for pickup. The conclusion was a pinched wire in the dash causing the traction light to be on and the mechanic lubed up the shifter linage at the transmission. There was no charge for this service. I went to dealer at 1300h to retrieve and C****** reiterated what was said on the phone.

In conclusion
In conclusion the disregard for customer satisfaction coupled with the loss of confidence in a Hyundai sales/repair facility has made me question the integrity of the company and this experience has shied me away from future purchase of Hyundai products or even recommending the product to anyone else. I may share my experience on social media not with displeasure or mean spirited rebuttal, but with facts. I have owned Hyundai products in the past and was very satisfied with the quality hence the reason for this purchase. This situation has left me with a lack confidence in Hyundai’s Factory Trained Technicians abilities to confidently diagnose Hyundai vehicles as well as management’s ability (or lack thereof) to be diligent in regards to customer needs. I am in no way pointing fingers at the counter staff as they depend on what information they are given.
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Friday, December 8th, 2017 AT 9:13 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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Yep it sounds like your car was a problem child and no one wanted to work on it. In there defence a pinched wire is one of the hardest problems to find because it will work one second and not the next. It sounds like a bit of frustration could have caused some of your other problems. Does the car still run?
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Saturday, December 9th, 2017 AT 2:55 PM
Tiny
KNKCARPROS
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
This vehicle was a Monday or Friday factory abortion. A pinched wire in the dash would not in probability have been present/problem prior to the attempted diagnosis as with the shifter. Amongst other things the prospect of throwing parts at a vehicle until it works especially on my pocket book is unsettling to say the least. The really sorry part in this whole thing is that a lot of technicians do not want to tackle electrical problems due to the fact that it just doesn’t pay, in Canada anyhow. The bench guys make all the money (brakes, suspension, exhaust etc.) When in fact the electrical gurus who are switched on are starving especially in flat rate. People seem to think a scan tool is the crystal ball of the electrical world, just another (expensive) tool in the box. Thank you for your assistance in this matter and wish you and yours a very safe and prosperous holiday season.
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Saturday, December 9th, 2017 AT 5:38 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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I don't hear anything I can disagree with. You have a fun and safe holiday season as well
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Sunday, December 10th, 2017 AT 7:00 PM

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