Crank no spark situation with no power to starter signal

Tiny
TULEL1
  • MEMBER
  • 1990 HONDA ACCORD
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 190,000 MILES
I have a crank no spark situation with no power to starter signal although the fuse is good. I tested the ignition coil and control module and replaced them but with no success.

I think there is fuel pressure since the fuel pump is fairly new, the starter solenoid is new, distributor is new, starter relay is new and the ignition wiring is new. I read something about the blue wire at the ignition area and I am not sure if that is the issue and I have been reading about the ground wires.

Any assistance to solve this issue will be highly appreciated.

Thanks
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Tuesday, February 12th, 2019 AT 1:56 PM

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Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

The first thing I would like you to do is check for diagnostic trouble codes. Here is a link that shows how that is done on this system:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/honda-car-1990-1995-obd1-code-retrieval-procedure-and-definition-table

Now, what I think may be the problem is the igniter in the distributor. That will prevent spark if it fails. There is one blue wire that runs between the igniter and the tachometer, but I don't think that will cause it not to run.

Here is a test to run on the igniter to see if it is the problem. Do this and let me know the result. Picture 1 correlates with these directions.

________________________

1. Remove the distributor cap, the rotor and the leak cover.

imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

2. Disconnect the black/yellow, white/blue, yellow/green and blue wires from the igniter unit.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery voltage between the black/yellow wire and body ground. If there is no battery voltage, check the black/yellow wire between the ignition switch and the igniter unit. If there is battery voltage proceed to step 4.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery voltage between the white/blue wire and body ground. If there is no battery voltage check the ignition coil for proper operation or for an open circuit on the white/blue wire between the ignition coil and the igniter unit. If there is battery voltage proceed to step 5.
5. Check the yellow/green wire between the PGM-FI ECU and the igniter unit.
6. Check the blue wire between the tachometer and the igniter unit.
7. If all tests are normal, replace the igniter unit.

______________________________________

While you have the distributor cap off, inspect the wiring inside for damage. It isn't uncommon for a wire to internally break and fail. You can't see the break because the insulation stays on the wire, so feel them with your hands for weak points that feel like they may be broken.

Here are a few links that may be helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

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Tuesday, February 12th, 2019 AT 8:42 PM

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