92 Honda Accord wont start/no spark

Tiny
MIKEB623
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 HONDA ACCORD
While driving down the road my car stalled out. Once I pulled over and tried to restart, I knew that my battery wasnt dead (it was cranking over) and figured my main relay (aka fuel relay) had gone bad again since it is such a common problem with the 90-93 accords. Then I checked this and found that my fuel pump was turning on when ignition is turned. I found that I had no spark from the distributor or to it (i assumed you were supposed to have a spark going into the distributor main from the ignition coil). I replaced the ignition coil and the problem continued. Where should I go from here?
Sunday, February 18th, 2007 AT 6:32 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
MIKEB623
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
By the way, I had my ignition switch (controls the run/start circuits) replaced very recently. Could this have something to do with the problem?
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Sunday, February 18th, 2007 AT 10:04 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Could be the ignition swtich not powering the ignition in run position or a fuse. When it dies out check for power at the coil, if so crank engine over while coil wire is remove and grounded-do you have spark-if so, check again at the spark plug wire end-no spark, investigate the rotor and cap thoroughly. It has to make it out there to get to the plugs. Comeback with your results

About the pump if its not producing the correct pressure-you gonna have the same problem.
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Monday, February 19th, 2007 AT 1:20 PM
Tiny
MIKEB623
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Checked for voltage at ignition coil and distributor: both checked out fine but no spark at plugs. I ran the troubleshooting on the ignitor inside of the distributor cap and it looked as though it was faulty. I also checked for gas on the plugs after cranking it over to check and make sure I did not have a faulty pump. I bought new distr. Cap, rotor, and ignitor (aka ICU or ICM) and the problem was solved. Ignitor runs about 110 new (at Napa) for those who care to hear (150 for all).

If the run switch is faulty, I know the trick to cure that from a couple months ago. Start the car but let the key back in-between the run and start position and it should stay running as long as you hold it there. You can do this by listening for the starter to turn off. If you have a standard, good luck cuz it requires one hand at the ignition to drive.
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+3
Monday, February 19th, 2007 AT 9:06 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
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Well the whole idea is to get to the source from the igntior-Glad you got it going again. Sorry I didn't give the actual defective item in the begining. Its just so hard at times to fix something when you're not there.
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Tuesday, February 20th, 2007 AT 6:51 AM
Tiny
MIKEB623
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  • 13 POSTS
I wasnt trying to show you up but I just found the problem with less trouble than I thought. I also like posting on this site so others like me can find info about problem and fix it faster, whether or not I get a response (although not getting a response is very uncommon). Those Haynes manuals help a lot and I kind of guessed and just replaced the whole end of the ignition system malfunctioning since it was not too expensive :P.
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Tuesday, February 20th, 2007 AT 8:35 PM

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