Cranks but will not start

Tiny
KENNETHPEPIN
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 3.9L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 190,000 MILES
I was going to work and it shut off. I pulled it home and took the bed off to inspect fuel pump. It primed for a couple seconds so I tried to start it and it fired right up. So I tried to drive it and it did the same thing except I didn't tow it. I had fuel at the rail so I knew it was getting fuel. I tried to start it and it fired up. So I headed back home and it shut off again but this time it skipped a couple times then shut off. I pulled it home and put a new coil because there was no power when I tested it. New one shows power at the coil but not at the distributor. I am stumped please help.
Monday, May 4th, 2020 AT 8:18 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,117 POSTS
Hi,

If you are not getting spark, the most common cause on these vehicles is the crankshaft position sensor. It is located on the transmission bell housing. I attached a picture below.

Take a look through this link and let me know if it seems to mirror what you are experiencing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Also, there are other things that would cause it to stall. The Auto Shut Down, camshaft position sensor and so on. However, those things would also shut down fuel delivery and you mentioned it is getting fuel.

If you haven't already, please confirm there is no spark to the plugs when it won't start.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Monday, May 4th, 2020 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
KENNETHPEPIN
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
So I am getting 12 volts to the coil but no spark to the distributor. I have read that it could be the circuit breaker. I tested the resistance in 2 different coils and both checked out fine.
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Wednesday, May 6th, 2020 AT 6:40 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,117 POSTS
Hi,

First, I attached a schematic related to the coil. Note that power is supplied via the PCM/ASD relay B+. You have power there, correct? If so, the next thing is the coil driver in the PCM. The PCM provides a ground path for the power to complete the circuit. Check to confirm there isn't a wiring issue between the coil and the PCM pin 19 coil driver. Check the wire for continuity first. Make sure the battery is disconnected when doing this. Also, after the battery is disconnected, remove the connector at the PCM and see if the pin is corroded or damaged.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Wednesday, May 6th, 2020 AT 9:34 PM
Tiny
KENNETHPEPIN
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
So I followed your first piece of advice and checked my crankshaft sensor and boom someone had spliced the three wires and they were broken were I couldn't see them. Rewired it and it fired right up. I let it sit and idle for 20 minutes then went on a 10 minute ride and it ran fine. Thank you for the advice. I also have a 1988 Chevrolet S10 that will run and idle but when I try to give it has it starts missing and popping. Could the cranks shaft sensor be the culprit of that as well?
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Wednesday, May 6th, 2020 AT 9:59 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,117 POSTS
Glad to hear you got it going. As far as the S-10, there are several things that can cause that issue. However, and I hate to ask, can you start a new thread for that topic. We are trying to keep the threads specific to one topic so they are more likely to help others. I hope you understand.

Regardless, this is good news. I will watch for the s-10 question to surface.

Take care,
Joe
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Thursday, May 7th, 2020 AT 7:29 AM
Tiny
KENNETHPEPIN
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
No problem I understand completely. I will start a new thread on the Chevrolet when I get off work.
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Thursday, May 7th, 2020 AT 8:25 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,117 POSTS
Thanks. I will watch for it.

Joe
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Thursday, May 7th, 2020 AT 8:59 AM

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