I'm a little unclear what you're describing in the last sentence, but there is a common problem with the cylinder, but it causes the opposite problem. The cam on the end of the cylinder assembly cracks, then due to the play that develops, the cam won't go quite far enough to get the switch to the "crank" position. Everything else turns on at the appropriate times. The dealer's parts department has a repair kit for that. You just pop the new cam on, but then you have to drill a hole and insert a small roll pin to hold it on. The end of the cylinder was peened over to hold the original cam in place.
If you're saying you turn the key further than it normally goes but the starter still doesn't crank the engine, suspect that cam.
The ignition switch itself can't go too far unless something is broken inside. There's a pin on the back side that will come to the end of its travel within a slot in the plastic housing. If you're getting things to turn on in the wrong positions, suspect the switch. These were used in a number of different models so new ones will be readily available from the dealer. If you attempt to use a used switch from a salvage yard, look closely at the seven electrical terminals. If two in the middle are black, dark or light brown, or the plastic housing around them is melted, the contacts have already been overheated. That damage to the terminals will create electrical resistance which will overheat the terminals in the connector in your truck.
You should check your original switch for that overheating too. This is more common for people who use their heater / AC fan on the higher speeds often. If those terminals are overheated or the plug is melted, I have a recommended fix for that.
Wednesday, March 25th, 2015 AT 5:28 PM