Engine cranks but not start up?

Tiny
HOX_HOX
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 HONDA CIVIC
  • 1.8L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 70,000 MILES
I have checked for fuel, spark and air. I have fuel since I looked down the spark plug holes and there was fuel in the cylinders. I have spark because I saw my plugs spark when out of the engine. My fuel pump does take a while to prime, would that be a cause to a no start? The main relay seems fine.
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Friday, September 11th, 2020 AT 10:43 AM

60 Replies

Tiny
DANNY L
  • EXPERT
Hello, I'm Danny.

Yes, to answer your question having a fuel pump that is weak or failing by not supplying enough fuel pressure can cause a no start condition.I would suggest doing a fuel pressure test.If you don't have access to a fuel pressure tester most auto parts stores have a tool loaner program and can rent you one.Here is a tutorial showing what is involved:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

I've attached a picture below showing the fuel pressure specifications for your Honda.Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.
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Friday, September 11th, 2020 AT 11:59 AM
Tiny
HOX_HOX
  • MEMBER
Don't I need the car to idle for this test? I can't do that since the car doesn't start.
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Friday, September 11th, 2020 AT 12:04 PM
Tiny
DANNY L
  • EXPERT
Hello again.

This sounds like a fuel pump or the crankshaft angels sensor has gone out. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

Danny-
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Friday, September 11th, 2020 AT 12:52 PM
Tiny
HOX_HOX
  • MEMBER
I checked the fuel pressure when the pump primed, it goes to about 30 PSI (second try it went up to 40 PSI) then it drops down to about 5 PSI, then 1 PSI and stays there for like 30 seconds to 1 minute then goes to 0 PSI. Is it supposed to go down to 0 or was it supposed to hold some pressure still?
I also did a compression check after this and the numbers are:

Cylinder 1: 180 PSI
Cylinder 2: 180 PSI
Cylinder 3: 180 PSI
Cylinder 4: Around 200-205 almost 210 PSI

Test was done when car is cold since it can't start anyways.

Motor is a B18C1.
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Friday, September 11th, 2020 AT 5:30 PM
Tiny
DANNY L
  • EXPERT
Hello again.

It sounds like the fuel pump is failing.The fuel pressure needs to always stay constant.It should not drop at all.I would suggest replacing the fuel pump.It is an in-tank pump and I will attach the repair steps below.Here is a tutorial showing what is involved:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-electric-fuel-pump

Hope this helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros
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Sunday, September 13th, 2020 AT 1:38 PM
Tiny
HOX_HOX
  • MEMBER
I have replaced the fuel pump, it still takes a while to prime and car doesn't start still.
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Thursday, September 17th, 2020 AT 3:25 PM
Tiny
DANNY L
  • EXPERT
Hello again.

After changing the fuel pump with new one you say it takes awhile to prime. Were you able to take a pressure reading with the new pump? Hope this helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
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Thursday, September 17th, 2020 AT 8:39 PM
Tiny
ANERHER1971
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 HONDA CIVIC
  • 230,000 MILES
I wrecked the car and the air bags came out. When trying to start the car, it would not start. It is not getting fire.
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Saturday, January 2nd, 2021 AT 11:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
Was the front end/engine damaged? If so, it could be anything? Does it crank ok? Any applicable trouble codes?
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Saturday, January 2nd, 2021 AT 11:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
Check for primary voltage at the ignition coil, key on, Black wire with yellow tracer should be hot.
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Saturday, January 2nd, 2021 AT 11:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MASOWAI
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 HONDA CIVIC
  • 175,000 MILES
First off, I want to let you all know that the car was running with a half-dead cylinder to begin with. However, it was driving decently. Removal of the plug wire on #2 made the engine idle even rougher, so it was left plugged in.
This is my brother's car and he said that he'd been driving with the engine light on for a few months. Derp. The codes show misfires on all cylinders (P0301-P0304)and random misfires (P0300). The dead cylinder is #2 and a dry compression test showed 26 psi and the wet showed 30 psi. All other cylinders are normal.
I decided to take a look at it today so I took off the valve cover and proceeded to remove the rocker arm assembly (camshaft holder) to check if there was a rounded lobe and noticed that two of the ten bolts were so loose that I could turn them with my finger. The two loose bolts were the ones in between the dead cylinder (#2) and #1. At this point, I decided to bail on this project and proceeded to screw the rocker arm assembly back on. Neither the cam, nor the springs, nor the valves were ever touched.
I followed the bolt down procedure exactly in the Hayne's. (14 ft-lbs)
So when I got it back together, I started the car and it barely held an idle. It was MUCH worse than before. Before it was easily driveable. Not now. A few seconds after starting, I started to hear a steady knocking noise and the engine is shaking. I killed it right away. I started it again after a few minutes. Same thing. Haven't tried a third time.
I've never had this problem before.

3 Questions:
Is there a way to damage this Honda engine like this?
Should I go back and leave those two loose screws in the way they were?
Did I possibly worsen an existing problem? Arrggghhhh! XD

Thanks

1997 Honda Civic EX
D16Y8 engine
175k miles
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Saturday, January 2nd, 2021 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
I think you over adjusted the valves. Check compression to see if it is within spec.
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Saturday, January 2nd, 2021 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MASOWAI
  • MEMBER
Like I said, I never touched the valves. I unbolted the rocker arm assembly (never actually removed it completely) and then re-torqued it to spec.
Am I damaging the engine if I continue to crank it over?
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Saturday, January 2nd, 2021 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MEMBER
Just to add ti this one. Maybe someone adjusted the valve lash with the loose rock shaft bolts. Now with the bolts tight the valve lash is too tight. Just a thought.
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Saturday, January 2nd, 2021 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Yes, you need to recheck the valve clearance. Btw you mentioned unplugging cylinder 2 which caused it to run rougher. That is not a dead cylinder. A dead cylinder would not make the engine run worse than unplugging it.
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Saturday, January 2nd, 2021 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MASOWAI
  • MEMBER
Thanks for the suggestions. I will check the valve clearance today.
One more thing: Is there any way that the cylinder could interfere with the valves like this?
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Saturday, January 2nd, 2021 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MASOWAI
  • MEMBER
Typo: Is there anyway the piston could interfere in this situation and foul things up? O_0
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Saturday, January 2nd, 2021 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Your intention was to adjust valves, why did you not do it then? When the rocker carriers are worked on, the valve clearance would be affected and you always need to check the measurements.

As to the pistons, they seldom affect thus, unless the piston rings are bad, then they can affect compression. Comparing a wet and dry compression test might show some results.

Since the rocker carrier bolts were loose, oil would get into the spark plug tubes. Oil there would cause misfirings as well.
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Saturday, January 2nd, 2021 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MASOWAI
  • MEMBER
My intention was to adjust valves. I should have done it in the first place. I can't argue with that. Very good point.
Update: I adjusted all of the valves according to the sticker under the hood.
Intake: 0.2mm +-0.02mm
Exhaust: 0.25mm +-0.02mm
I did a leak down test and found a big leak in the exhaust valve in cylinder 2. The car runs fine. (Well, relatively fine. As well as it did before)
As far as that loud knocking I heard after the first adjustment of the rocker carrier. What could that have been? I thought it was valve slap, but who knows? I sincerely appreciate all of the help guys.
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Saturday, January 2nd, 2021 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
I don't understand how exhaust valve # 2 is leaking badly and engine is running fine. If it really is leaking badly, the engine should be misfiring on cylinder # 2.

As to the noise, if it is # 2 valve that is leaking, that could mean a bent valve. While doing the valve adjustment, did you note if the adjustment screw for this particular valve has different thread length remaining on the protruded side?

Have you repeated a compresison test?
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Saturday, January 2nd, 2021 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)

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