Coolant leak

Tiny
SACFOX186
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 CHRYSLER 300M
  • 3.5L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
Vehicle at traffic light protruding from under/coolant on the ground extending from front driver side to the next lane. I noticed smoke from hood of car. No overheating report. Some fluid remains in overflow. Car will start. Overflow is melted inside and where the cap goes on is crooked.
Tuesday, June 15th, 2021 AT 11:14 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
This could be a couple things but I suspect what happened was the engine started to overheat and the coolant started spraying out of the cap as it is not able to stay on tightly.

Here is a guide that will help with causes of overheating:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-an-overheating-engine

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

This means we need to find why it is overo. It could be just a faulty cap so if the bottle no longer seals the cap then we need to replace it.

If that is replaced and this still overheats then we need to check for a blown head gasket.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

Please run through this material and let us know if you have questions. Let us know what you find with this and we can go from there. Thanks
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Wednesday, June 16th, 2021 AT 5:19 PM
Tiny
SACFOX186
  • MEMBER
  • 38 POSTS
Well, the reservoir was replaced and it was started up no leaks anywhere it ran until almost 1/2 way hot. No fan. Until A/C was turned on. Both fans run then but A/C turned off due to high screeching noise. It went for a run and came back with a high temperature no fluid in oil or on ground. ECT on order. I'm hoping the ECM isn't the problem.
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Monday, June 21st, 2021 AT 2:52 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
This does sound like a temperature sensor issue but you can test it by putting it in a pot of water and monitor the resistance across the terminals.

Here is a guide on these sensors:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-coolant-temperature-sensor

Basically as the temperature comes up you will see the resistance on the sensor change and it should be steady and not jump. If it doesn't move then the sensor is the issue.

Please let us know what you find. Thanks
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Tuesday, June 22nd, 2021 AT 6:36 PM
Tiny
SACFOX186
  • MEMBER
  • 38 POSTS
I am not able to assist. Nephew thought I was doing it my way, lol. So he got mad and is doing it his way. He can't get the alternator back on and it's been 3 days he's been trying. It's his car he can slam all the doors he wants. Won't get the alternator back on.
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Thursday, June 24th, 2021 AT 12:01 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Totally understand. Unfortunately the manual is not as detailed as desired.

The best thing to do is get get one of the bolts started and then pry it up and into place and get the other started.

If he still can't get it we are going to need to get a new post started as we need to keep each to one topic so that other s that are struggling with this can find it.

Thanks
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Thursday, June 24th, 2021 AT 8:00 PM
Tiny
SACFOX186
  • MEMBER
  • 38 POSTS
Sure thing and sorry. If I ever need more help I would still want to consult with you guys. I do watch your YouTube sessions.
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 3:46 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Oh. Great. Thanks for the update. Yes. Please let us know if you do. I will be sure to tell Ryan (YouTube manager) that you are a follower of his. Thanks again.
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Sunday, June 27th, 2021 AT 1:09 PM

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