CODE P0193 all that was left?

Tiny
BHAMDOC1
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 MERCEDES BENZ E63 AMG
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 171,000 MILES
Initially had a bunch of codes, among them p2540. Deleted all and all that was left was p2540. Changed the sensor on top of the fuel tank, deleted the code. Without a check engine light saw a p0193. It's an auction car, but I only added maybe $20 worth of gas in it, 93 unleaded. No misfires, engine sounds ok.
Thursday, January 15th, 2026 AT 11:20 AM

45 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 15,608 POSTS
OK that code is for the fuel rail pressure sensor. With the engine at idle toss a scan tool on it and see what the PCM is asking for in fuel pressure VS what the sensor is showing as fuel pressure. Are the values different? Yes - test the voltage at the sensor between pins 1 and 3, you want to see 4.8-5.3 volts. If the values are wrong and the voltage is OK, replace the sensor.
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Thursday, January 15th, 2026 AT 8:42 PM
Tiny
DIVIDES
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Do you mean while running properly the back of the wires while the connector is still in?
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Friday, January 16th, 2026 AT 5:13 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Unplug the sensor and test the voltage supplied at those two pins with the key on, should have bias voltage to those pins. If the voltage is good then it's likely a bad sensor or wiring to the PCM.
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Friday, January 16th, 2026 AT 7:10 AM
Tiny
BHAMDOC1
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Was finishing up the rear air struts on it, and when I started it up the check engine light was back, but it ran fine. I decided to scan all systems and deleted all codes. Started it and its rough idle and dies every time with no throttle response, similar to what you would feel if a throttle boot was off the car. I have one code p0191 now instead.
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Friday, January 23rd, 2026 AT 10:03 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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That is a fuel pressure sensor implausible code. IE it's reading higher or lower pressure than the PCM thinks it should. Might want to look at the connector on the sensor and see if the sockets are loose on the pins or if there is damage to the connector. Could even just be a bad sensor itself.
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Friday, January 23rd, 2026 AT 10:27 AM
Tiny
BHAMDOC1
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Checked the connector. It has 4 pins but three wires. Removed it looks ok. Tested the voltage by placing meter's pin on pin 1 abd the other on pin 3, got 4.21 then 4 then 4.06 just fluctuates. Started the car and it ran not sure if the pump is weak abd causing that. I want to read the codes again once it stop running
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Friday, January 23rd, 2026 AT 2:19 PM
Tiny
BHAMDOC1
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  • 193 POSTS
Just retested it, 4.92
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Friday, January 23rd, 2026 AT 2:30 PM
Tiny
BHAMDOC1
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Will stay running a bit rough theb dies, also have code p0355
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Friday, January 23rd, 2026 AT 3:03 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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P0355 is a cylinder 5 coil implausibility code. It might share a circuit with the pressure regulator but the diagrams I have doesn't really show one. It does show a connection to the crank sensor and the oil temp sensor. No real way to test the pressure sensor other than replacement as MB keeps that info in the dealer network.
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Friday, January 23rd, 2026 AT 4:32 PM
Tiny
BHAMDOC1
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Sorry p0335 not 355
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Friday, January 23rd, 2026 AT 5:04 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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OK that is an odd code, Basically says that the spacing of the teeth on the crankshaft for the crank sender is wrong, or more likely there is a wiring fault to the sensor. You mention you only have 3 wires but there should be 4 and one is shared with the crank sensor.
In the earlier image, B4/15 is the oil pressure sensor, B70 is the crank sensor and B1 is the oil temp. Since you are showing a code for the pressure and the crank, I'd look at the shared parts which is pretty much the 5 volt feed and the PCM, but as your 5 volt feed was bouncy I'd check it right at the PCM pin 44 If it's steady there then I'd unplug the crank and fuel sensors and see if it still bounces with them unplugged. Could simply be a bad sensor pulling the bias voltage down.
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Friday, January 23rd, 2026 AT 8:44 PM
Tiny
BHAMDOC1
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Added some fuel cleaner and that didnt help. So I started it and it would start and idle fine, revs fine, leave it for 10 minutes then it dies on itself. Try to start it will start with rough idle then dies. Am sure will start ok once cold again. Here are the codes
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Wednesday, February 11th, 2026 AT 1:37 PM
Tiny
BHAMDOC1
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Also, ypu can barely rev it up after it starts to do that. How do I test the passenger side fuel pump?
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Wednesday, February 11th, 2026 AT 1:42 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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The code you have is fuel pressure sensor implausible. The pressure it is sending is higher or lower than the pressure it is requesting it falls into this tree of codes -
The value of sensor B4/15 (Fuel pressure sensor) is implausible. (P0191)
Fuel pressure is too high. (P0191)
Fuel pressure is too low. (P0191)
Fuel pressure control : The lower limit value is reached. (P0191)
Fuel pressure control : The upper limit value is reached. (P0191)

All of them start with testing the two fuel pump control modules for faults. Then they want you to use the scan tool to select a pressure for each module in turn and use the sensor reading to see if the modules operate correctly. So basically you turn on one pump to say 50 psi, then look at the sensor, it shows 50, now select the other control module at 50 and check the sensor, it reads 25, that pump module is the issue. Probably could do that using a pressure gauge on the rail in place of the sensor, then watch the gauge as you cycle the pumps on and off. If both pumps read the same then it's likely the sensor itself.
Both pumps are in the same pump module, there is a level sending unit and strainer sock on one side and the pumps are both on the same side with one pump connected to the other side with a hose in the tank.
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Thursday, February 12th, 2026 AT 1:02 PM
Tiny
BHAMDOC1
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So bot pumps are on the passwnger side. But how will I know which pump is sending which pressure when I connect the gauge to the fuel rail valve? So I can eliminate which one. And if both readings showing sane then module could be bad?
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Thursday, February 12th, 2026 AT 1:07 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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You should be able to power them individually using a scan tool as they can be controlled individually. So if you turn on pump 1 and get a correct reading, then pump 2 and get the same reading the pumps and control modules should be OK. The issue so far Is that nothing I've seen shows the actual fuel pressure, just the range the sensor reads and tells that you compare the requested pressure to the sensor read pressure.

The fuel pressure sensor is located at the front on the left side of the fuel manifold.

The fuel pressure sensor detects the fuel pressure in the fuel manifold.
The fuel pressure is evaluated by the ME-SFI [ME] control unit (N3/10) for actuation of the left and right fuel pump control units (N118/3 and N118/4) (except model 216, 221) according to requirements or the left fuel pump control unit (N118/3) (for model 216, 221).

Function
The fuel pressure deforms a membrane, which affects a potentiometer. This alters the resistance value of the potentiometer and influences the signal voltage (about 0.3 to 4.8 V) in such a way that it serves the ME-SFI [ME] control unit as information about the fuel pressure.

The pressure sensor measuring range lies between 0.5 and 10 bar.

The fuel temperature is also detected by the fuel pressure sensor but not evaluated by the ME-SFI [ME] control unit.
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Thursday, February 12th, 2026 AT 1:58 PM
Tiny
BHAMDOC1
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So I need to manually initiate each via scanner basically to see what pressure it sends and then measure the pressure using a gauge at the front bia the sheeder valve?
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Thursday, February 12th, 2026 AT 2:11 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Yep, compare the reading from each pump to the requested pressure in live data. So say it shows the left pump at 5 bar requested but the live reading is 2 bar. Then you check the right pump and it requests 5 bar and you see 5 bar, there is an issue with the left pump. Also compare the live data reading from the pressure sensor to an actual pressure gauge. If the mechanical gauge reads 5 bar but the live data reads 3 well you know the sensor is an issue.
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Thursday, February 12th, 2026 AT 2:25 PM
Tiny
BHAMDOC1
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I see. Will do. The rail pressure is new and a brand name but will see. All this I assume is with ignition on only. Should I compare it when cold then start it and let it idle till it dies and see if I can se a difference with ignition only on?
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Thursday, February 12th, 2026 AT 2:34 PM
Tiny
BHAMDOC1
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Just went to see what options the scanner has. I can activate each pump but it does not give me spexifics to any data. I heard both. But when I try to start the car I dont hear that loud noise at all even though the seat is off. Here are few things I recorded. No codes anywhere. Then at the end the sane code about a missing tooth or something came back. I will see about reading the pressure up front next using a gauge
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Thursday, February 12th, 2026 AT 3:10 PM

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