Clutch is still stuck on the floor after replacing throw out bearing and slave cylinder

Welcome to 2CarPros.

When you say it is half stuck, do you mean the pedal doesn't return half way? Was the clutch master cylinder replaced?

Here are the specific bleeding procedures for your vehicle. Confirm you are doing it correctly.
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Bleeding Procedure

Notice: Do not reuse the fluid that has been bled from a system in order to fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir for the following reasons:

1. The fluid may be aerated
2. The fluid may be contaminated
3. The fluid may contain too much moisture

Important: Maintain the fluid level in the clutch reservoir to the top step with GM P/N 12345347, or equivalent.

1. Clean dirt and grease from the cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter the system.
2. Attach a hose to the bleeder screw on the clutch actuator assembly. Submerge the other end of the hose in a container of Hydraulic Clutch Fluid GM P/N 12345347, or equivalent.
3. Depress the clutch pedal slowly and hold.
4. Loosen the bleeder screw to purge air.
5. Tighten the bleeder screw to 2 Nm (18 inch lbs.)
6. Repeat steps 3 through 5 until air is purged.
7. Fill reservoir to the top step with GM P/N 12345347, or equivalent.
8. Repeat the bleeding procedure if there is a grinding noise during the clutch spin down procedure. Refer to Clutch Spin Down Time.

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Let me know,
Joe

Welcome back:
If everything in the hydraulic portion is working, then something inside wasn't put together correctly. Did you unbolt the pressure plate? Was it properly tightened? If the pedal goes to the floor with no restriction, it has to be either the hydraulics, a loose pressure plate, or (and I don't think it is even possible) the release bearing wasn't installed correctly.