The only common trade name that comes to mind is Raybestos. As a brake system specialist, I buy parts for my cars from the local farm and home supply store. I look for the lowest price, not where they are made.
If you go to any auto parts store, they can show you on the package where a part was made, but that does not tell the entire story. For example, Craftsman had wrenches that were stamped and machined in Asia, then sent to the U.S. To get their chrome plating. Guess where those are listed as being made? In the U.S, because that is where the final step was done. You could potentially have brake friction material made overseas, then bonded to the metal backing plates here, and be listed as made in the U.S.
Be aware too that a lot of parts retailers buy parts from other manufacturers, then just repackage them with their own names. Chrysler fuel pumps, for example, are real quiet. Napa fuel pumps for Chrysler products are also real quiet. Napa buys them from the same manufacturer that provides them to Chrysler, so when you buy a pump from Napa or a Chrysler dealer's parts department, you're getting a pump that came from the same factory.
Remember my first comment. You are seriously over-thinking this issue. A brake rotor is more likely to warp from improper installation procedures than from anything else. The concern is how the lug nuts are tightened. Too many people think if tight is good, tighter is good, uhm, better! That is absolutely not true. All professionals use a click-type torque wrench when tightening lug nuts. This takes on more importance with small cars with rotors that are held on by the wheels, and it is a little less critical with large trucks, but it still must be considered. Equal lug nut tightness is just as important as sufficient tightness. Under-tightening can lead to a nut working loose. If they all do that, the wheel will not be held from sliding up and down and back and forth on the hub, and that will tear away the mating surfaces between the wheel and the nuts. Once that occurs, the lug nuts will never remain tight. The wheel and all the nuts must be replaced to solve that.
Over-tightening the nuts stretches and peels the threads and reduces their strength. Once the threads are peeled, you will never know it until the next time someone tries to get the nuts off. That is when the damage becomes apparent, and is when a lot of mechanics get falsely blamed for damaging them. You do not damage a nut by loosening it and removing it. It was already damaged by the last guy who over-tightened it.
Unequal tightness is what leads to the most warped rotors. The clamping forces are not even all the way around. Rotors will get much too hot to touch from normal braking. The heating and cooling causes them to expand and contract, and they wont do that evenly when there is uneven stress on them.
Be aware too that if you buy a rotor from an auto parts store and it does warp in a few months, most of them have at least a small machine shop in back and they will usually take a light cut on that rotor for free. That is highly preferable to demanding a free replacement under warranty. The replacement is just as likely to do the same thing, while the machined rotor is likely to not cause any more problems.
Referring back to the first paragraph where I mentioned my cheapness, part of the cost of replacement brake pads has to do with the extras they give you. All brake pads are going to vibrate. You cannot stop that, but you can mitigate the audible squeal that results from it. Some manufacturers provide thin metal shims, or isolators, that clip or stick to the backs of the pads. The idea is the vibrating pad is less likely to be able to transmit that vibration to the caliper or mounting knuckle where it will be amplified. Those are pretty effective and often come that way when the vehicle was new. Some pads come with thick paper shims that you are supposed to stick to the backs of the pads. Might as well throw those away. After a few hundred miles, you'll find them wadded up inside the caliper's piston, proving the pad was moving around. There are a number of other things we do to prevent noises, and there are things do-it-yourselfers and inexperienced mechanics can do to cause those noises.
Some pads use anti-rattle springs or clips, and some suppliers include new ones with their products. That adds to the cost. The warranties are different too. You do not get a longer warranty for free. That adds to the cost. It is so easy to make a safe, reliable brake pad that you will never see one fail before it wears out. I do not see any need to pay more for a longer warranty period.
Do not fall for all the hype and advertising. A brake pad had better not make your car stop faster than the original parts. You already have way more than enough braking power to lock all four wheels and make the tires skid. How much more do you need?
Thursday, November 3rd, 2016 AT 5:12 PM