WON'T START ( 4WD 1500 , 5.3L)

1999 Chevrolet Suburban

Tiny

ahollon

March, 16, 2007 AT 3:56 PM

1999 4WD 1500 Suburban, 5.3L, 102k miles
Replaced battery and starter in May 2006. Been having issues with the vehicle starting and running for 15 seconds or so and then dying as I'm starting to drive. I've addressed this by jiggling the battery cables on positive side post - has worked every time until I returned to Austin from 100 mile drive last weekend. Battery has plenty of juice - all lights, radio, windows, etc. Work fine. But only a little click-click is heard in the steering column when I turn the key to start it now. That's all - nothing more. I removed the battery cable connecting positive post to starter and took it to a parts store. It looks good and they hooked something to it to see if it had any resistance and it didn't - apparently that isn't the problem. I'm guessing the starter has either already gone bad or something with the ignition switch? But I hate to just start replacing parts without knowing for sure. Any ideas?

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3 Answers

Tiny

2CarPros Ken

March, 16, 2007 AT 4:28 PM

Replace your positive battery cable. I see this all the time. Get back to me please, thanks fo visiting 2carpros. Com

Tiny

ahollon

March, 16, 2007 AT 4:57 PM

I pulled it off and looked at it. It looks great - clean as a whistle. I took it to the parts store and they checked to see if it had any resistance problems and the answer was " no" - and they told I'd be wasting money to buy a new cable & install it only to find that it didn't solve my problem. Do you think these guys are wrong?

Tiny

anotherview

March, 22, 2007 AT 7:45 PM

Do you think the solenoid is engaging both electrically and mechanically such that the high current side (through the cable that tested good)?

If so, why?

You mentioned the ignition switch. You can check that with a voltmeter on the low voltage input to the solenoid.

If you don't want to waste money on a cable, pull the starter and have the auto parts store check it.

About the cable, unless the ohm meter they used was a high current one, it may not mean much. It could have near zero using the 9v testers, but then when it really needs to carry the big current, it can't do it.

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