Engine stalls while driving ?

Some trucks have a hot fuel module. They will prime longer than two seconds.

So if you unhook the egr valve it runs good?

No i tryed unhooking the egr valve did not help.i unpluged the throttle postion sensor.it help some but it still wants to stall..

Seems like it has something to do with the egr valve how does it idle?

thanks for all your help..i wanted to update you on the problem..it was my oxygen sensor..now it runs fine with no issues

Thats a strange one i havent seen too many o2 sensors causing stalling.Glad to hear you got it fixed though.

When I push on my brakes my truck stalls. If I unhook my brakes lights the truck doesn't stall. But if the brake lights come on it stalls. When I put the truck in reverse it runs like crap. I have no idea what is going on.

sounds like you got a major short on the tail lights right under your bumper there is a disconect un plug it there and see if it makes a diffrence if it does then the short is after that then start traceing line they go up throught the box sides and the could be worn through or maybe some one cut in to it for a trailer hitch and it is shorted there

I have a 1995 Chevy Silverado with a 5.7L TBI motor. I've recently been experiencing the entire trucks electronics die and the truck too while I'm driving it, but it only lasts a fraction of a second and then its running fine again. It doesn't happen all the time. Seems to be a spontaneous action. I've asked friends and family who used to be mechanics and they all say that they've never heard of such a thing happening. Can someone help me?

Hi
Most likely the ignition switch. There is a history of your condition and switch is the fix. See if lightly jiggling key will cause shut down. Then remove switch on top column down low look for burn marks. if either condition replace.
Let me know
Thanks for donate

Engine Performance problem
1995 Chevy Silverado V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

hi, chevy silv 2500 4wd 5.8-throttle body-starts up runs for 3-5 seconds, stalls. this keeps up for about 10 times then runs perfect all day.

replaced fuel filter, (watched fuel spray good right until stall)

then replaced coolant temp sensor

IAC cleaned and replaced

took dist off, cap and rotor shot; replaced (figured had weak spark on run circuit, presum lower voltage after startup)

no change. help

How many miles does this engine have on it?

unknown, broken odom. prolly 150k

I can't tell you anything for sure but some of these throttle bodies get a lot of wear in them in higher mileage vehicles and that causes a real unstable idle due to major vacuum leaks through worn throttle shafts which will also cause poor seating of the throttle plates. Wear in the bore also contributes to this further. Your basically looking for air leaks that the IAC is unable to overcome.

My 1995 chevy 2500 pickup runs fine for several weeks but then starts stalling when slowing down... It will keep doing it for days and then runs like a charm for a few weeks.
When it is acting up, I have discovered that, if I hold the gas pedal down, when cranking it, it will cough an finally start up. But, I have to keep the RPMs up, or it will die again. I have also noticed a faint smell of gasoline... like it may be flooding/choking itself out. But, recentl I notcie the fuel smell near the Evap canister.
On advice from others I have replaced the distibutor module, the Distr. cap, plug wires and plugs, and the fuel pressure regulator. Only to find a few weeks later the problem returns.

has the check engine light come on? Have you checked fuel pump pressure, for vacuum leaks, throttle position sensor, Idle air control valve...?

The check engine light has not come on... But it is an OBD1 system, it is pre-OBDII, so I am not sure what data it might have.

I thought about the Fuel pump, since it is very old... But, it seemed more like a choking problem, because of the retarting improvement when holding the throttle wide open. But, is there an easy way to check the fuel pump preasure, without special tools. And, since the problem comes and goes, can I be sure the test works, if the fuel pump may be fading in and out? After it sits for a while it seems to run again for a while before the problem resurfaces... So, engine temp may also be playing some role, too. Before I figured out I coulsd hold teh throttle wide open and get it to restart, I had to let it cool down for a while before it would start... and then head for home as fast as I could...

I have not found any vacume leaks, as yet. But, I have not check the throttle position sensor or Idle control valve...

You do need a fuel pressure gauge. Most parts stores will lend them to you. As far as OBD1, it will also tell you where the problem is coming from too.