AC not working

Tiny
SHELDONBYNUM
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 95,000 MILES
Good afternoon, My air conditioner in the 2005 impala start working or might I say blowing any air hot or cold. When the ac is turn all the lights on the dash board indicates power but no air is blowing. My question is, Would the air compressor stop working because the refrigerant is low and would that prevent the air from blowing when either the ac is hot or cold.
Thursday, September 17th, 2009 AT 2:59 PM

24 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,788 POSTS
Low AC refrig won't cause the blower motor to stop working. You need to start at the blower motor to see if it is getting power. If it is, then the motor is bad. If there is no power to it, you need to work backwards through the resister, relay, switch...

This guide should help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009 AT 8:15 AM
Tiny
TURBOJAY
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  • 1 POST
Had to get a new compressor cost me $340.00. Good as new
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 11:30 AM
Tiny
9445RYAN
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
  • 2005 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 100,000 MILES
I checked pressure and was 0 when I hooked up r134a pressure was high, with out putting any of the r134a in the system. The compressor would cycle on and off ever 3 to 5 seconds. I jumper the relay to add the r134a. The system took about 1oz and the compressor relief valve blew off the r134a since the pressure was to high. Any Ideas?
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 11:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
Iam really confused here said the pressure was zero then you said it was high when hooking the r134 up?How does that work?Also what were the high and low pressure readings at idle?Does the fan work to cool the condenser

This guide will help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
9445RYAN
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Yes the fan works, when I first checked the pressure was 0 the gage must not have been installed correctly. When I went to add the r134a the gage I had inline with the coolant read in the red (danger) area on my gage, not sure on what the actual reading was with out looking at the gage.
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
Your lucky you didnt blow your hand or face off bypassing the high/low safety switch then try to charge it while the gauge was in the red. Just so know if you get enough pressure in one of those diy charge cans then can go off like a hand gernand. So please dont ever bypass a high/low safety switch ever again or any other safety device. The reason the blow off valve blew was because you bypassed the high/low safety switch and too much pressure was built. So your going to have to replace the blow off valve thats a given. But before you do that I would try to read the high and low pressures?Whats going to happening though most likely is the pressures will rise and the compressor will cycle.I need to know what the high and low pressures go up to before the ac compressor cycles?You will need a actual ac gauge set to read the pressures. Not the low side diyer low pressure gauge/charge hose. If your going to diagnose this problem yourself. Otherwise you will have to take it to a shop.
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SHELDONBYNUM
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2005 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 93,000 MILES
To whom it may concern, the air conditioner in the chevy impala LS will stop working when you turn the air conditioner on. While looking at the compressor, and had someone to switch on an off the air conditioner. When air conditioner is engaged, I am assuming the visible piece spinning is some type of clutch on the compressor would spin when the air conditioner is place on its coldest setting and stop when the air conditioner unit is dis engage. If anyone can give me any idea to why the air conditioner is not working I would be very grateful. Thank you
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
The most likely cause of an automotive air conditioner cooling problem is no refrigerant in the system. If the refrigerant has escaped past a leaky compressor or O-ring seal, leaked out of a pinhole in the evaporator or condenser, or seeped out through a leaky hose, the leak needs to be identified and repaired before the system is recharged.

On many systems, the compressor will not turn on if the refrigerant is low because the "low pressure safety switch" prevents the compressor clutch from engaging if system pressure is low. This protects the compressor from possible damage caused by a lack of lubrication.

One of the first things you should check, therefore, is compressor engagement. If the compressors magnetic clutch is not engaging when the A/C is turned on, the problem may be a blown fuse or a wiring problem. If the fuse is blown, replacing it may restore cooling temporarily. But the underlying reason for the fuse blowing in the first place needs to be identified and corrected to prevent the same thing from happening again.

If the magnetic clutch is receiving voltage but is not engaging the compressor, the clutch is defective and needs to be replaced. If there is any evidence of leakage around the compressor shaft seal, the seal should also be replaced.

If the clutch works but fails to turn the compressor (the belt may squeal in protest!), The compressor has seized and needs to be replaced.

Compressor failures are usually the result of loss of lubrication, which in turn may be due to low refrigerant in the system, a blockage (such as a plugged orifice tube which prevents refrigerant and oil from circulating to the compressor), loss of lubricant due to leaks or improper service procedures (not adding oil to the system to compensate for oil lost through leakage or component replacement), or use of the wrong type of lubricant.

R-12 systems require mineral oil while R-134a systems require various types of PAG oil or POE oil. Using mineral oil in a newer R-134a system can cause serious lubrication problems as can using the wrong grade (viscosity) of PAG oil. Always follow the vehicle or lubricant manufacturers compressor oil recommendations.

The next thing you should check when troubleshooting a no cooling problem is system pressure. For this, you need a set of A/C service gauges. Attach your service gauges to the high and low service fittings. If both the high and low side pressure gauges read low, the system is low and needs recharging. But before any refrigerant is added, check for leaks to find out where the refrigerant is going.
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MMSHERIDAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2005 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 50,000 MILES
The AC in my Impala has decided to stop working just as it's warming up. Fan still works fine, and heat works well. When I go for AC all I get is air, not cold air. Any ideas what the problem could be? I'd like to have some idea so I can know if I can fix it myself or, more likely, take it to a mechanic. Thanks.
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Hi there,

Often it is a case of low refrigerant due to a leak in the system, this will cause the low pressure switch to shut down the system, get a leak test done first.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GTO 66
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2005 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 3.4L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 20,005 MILES
Added Freon to 35 lbs. Check air cond. Fan fuse. Checked controls on dash. Compressor clutch seems to be working I think. Still no cold air.
.
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,758 POSTS
Regardless of what that "death kit" you bought states, you cannot accurately charge and AC system by pressures. The only way it can be done is to completely evacuate the system, put it under vacuum for a period and then charge it with the exact weight prescribed for that system. Only then can you look at pressures and determine anything. At this point you don't even know if the compressor is working and that is dangerous. This is something that you should bring to an AC specialist that has the equipment to charge it properly.
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
D73JESTER
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 2005 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 67,000 MILES
This just happened to me on Jand 12 09, I was driving back from the store turned the heater on and it was blowing cold air. Noticed the engine temp gauge was rising the vents would blow hot air then the engine would cool and this repeated till I got home when the vents no longer blew hot air. The dex cool was low I replaced it to the over flow tank ran car again and the temp continued to climb. I opened the pressure cap and the fluid wasnt over the top of the radiator cooling fins. The fans turned on and off intermintally. No fluid moved from the holding tank none visibly. No apparent leaks that can be seen with the naked eye at night on the street corner with a work light. Never smelt the radiator "smell" from the vents
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RHALL77
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,361 POSTS
Iwould suggest having the cooling system pressure checked and see where the leak is coming from. Could be a water pump, intake gasket, or a head gasket
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
D73JESTER
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
After more research I found a few more things I am using a 15 lbs pressure caps, and there was a build up of brown sludge on it. I will be calling a mechanic in the morning lets not hope to expensive.
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RHALL77
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,361 POSTS
I never seen a pressure cap cause that on this type of vehicle. Usually the brown sludge wont cause it either. Have it pressure tested and let me know what you find
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
D73JESTER
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
It will hopfully be going into the shop tomorrow. I am hoping it just needs a flush and a new thermostat but since I am the least mechanically inclined I will leave in the hands of the professionals. I will keep you informed.
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
D73JESTER
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Well I took it to the shop and the said head gasket and water pump went bad. Gave me an estimate of 1675.00 what would cause these to go bad it has less then 70000 miles on the car.
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RHALL77
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,361 POSTS
I have a hard time believing its both. And intake gasket and a water pump maybe. But you may have this going on. I would suggest having a second opinion done.
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
D73JESTER
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I am going to go to the shop and have them show me why they suspect the head gasket and not the intake gasket? What should I ask them to get specific answers that can determine the causes of the problem? Again not to mechanically inclined so the more presice the better. I may still have it looked at again by another mechanic.
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Monday, August 26th, 2019 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)

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