The throwout bearing is what pushes against the fingers on the pressure plate and disengages the clutch to allow the shifting of the tranny. The bearing is failing but it still is doing its job. However, it is starting to grumble like an old man and replacement of the throwout is part of a clutch replacement. Replacing the clutch is very near for you.
December, 11, 2006 AT 9:16 AM
Bruce Hunt is right.
You could have a clutch problems or internal transmission problems : neutral rollover rattle, damage input gear bearings misalignement of transmission with engine, worn or damage bearings. Check your fluid level first, it could be low. You could also have worn or brokken gears, excessive counter shaft end-play, or the main shaft gears are loose.
February, 15, 2007 AT 2:32 PM
WELL, PATIENTS, BUT THE UNDERSIDE OF THE RIGHT DASH BELOW THE GLOVE BOX HAS TO COME OFF AND THE HEATER CORE REMOVED FROM THE INSIDE, MAKE SURE TO BLOCK HOSES OFF BEFORE REPAIR,
June, 24, 2007 AT 10:08 PM
In your answer you mention the underside of the dash on the right side needs to come out. The shop manual says you have to pull the whole dash. I'm hoping that your alternate route is what it sounds like. I'd appreciate your advice.
By the way, my vehicle is a 2001 S10 4DR, 4WD Blazer and the heater core is leaking too.
Thanks for your time.
June, 25, 2007 AT 5:01 AM
O1 is a little different, the whole dash does not have to come out per say, remove heater hoses and block off, remove speaker covers and center defroster grill you will find a bunch of phillips head screws along the op remove all but two, remove all lower dash covers, and there are six main bolts that do not have to come out but losse, if you look hard you will see which ones would make the dash fall toward the seat, then remove two top scews you left in, dash will fall back and you have a few more screws on the core cover, book calls for 1o hrs ive done them in six but I break it up into two days so your not stuck under there all day
June, 25, 2007 AT 10:06 PM
As you can see by the pictures I got the dash to lean out and I took out all the screws of the A/C module box but it's not coming apart. If I lift up on the top of the case it gaps open but it appears it's still connected together. To go further It looks like the dash is actually going to have to come out. This appears to require letting the steering column down, unplugging several major electrical connections and getting into the Air Bag controls. That's really my biggest concern, after all this I'd hate to fire off the air bags and add that to the job.
Any help is appreciated!
June, 26, 2007 AT 5:07 AM
Go under the hood ontop of the evap core, and there sits the blower motor resistor, there are three bolts, you will not be able to see them but there is a cutting guide on the housing to cut the plastic to reveal the bolts 5.5mm once the resister is pulled look down into the box and you will see one 10mm bolt that needs to come out , also there are two under, one is behind the right exhasut manifold and the other is same height but closer to the right wheel, these two go to studs on the lower right corner of the ac module and one right next to the heater hoses and its out, sorry about that I thought you meant just the dash, warning the one behind rhe exhaust manifold is tricky 10mm one turn at a time, and if you do want more room you can drop the column should be 4 retainers 10mm and two column boilts 15 mm but I alway snuck em out without it, its tougher but savers about 20 minutes in the round trip, oh and I never unplug anything I always more a harness from a clip if needed, no sense in pulling what you dont need, as long as the battery is disconnected the air bags will be ok, remember all you need to do is to pull the module out enough to clear the heat core lines on the inside of the firewall to remove the two top cover bolts, thats why I never go too far
June, 26, 2007 AT 1:08 PM
I was able to locate and remove all the fasteners you told me about and I even found one extra. However, the whole box wiggles but isn't coming away from the firewall. Does it have anything to do with air distribution vents on the bottom of the box for heating? They seem to be separate but I'm wondering if they're in the way. I'm so close to getting the core out and this one last thing is holding up the show. I haven't given up though.
Thanks for your time.
June, 26, 2007 AT 1:33 PM
As long as you have the tree plus the one one the firewall at the heater core lines you should be good, the two on the lower firewall are studsthey may be holding you up and as long as you pulled theresistor out and got that one give it a yank
June, 26, 2007 AT 2:45 PM
Indeed there were the fasteners you told me about but there was one more WELL HIDDEN lag bolt looking thing that went in from the firewall and fastened the outside Evap cover going all the way through into the A/C box. It took me an hour to find it but it's right by the passenger side valve cover on the fire wall. It took a 24" 3/8 drive extension and a 10mm universal socket to get to it and that was pretty tight. Once I took it out the whole box popped right out and I'm about to remove that * & %& *@## heater core. Now if I can just remember how it all goes back to gether. : Mrgreen: