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CV axle problems and replacement?

Tiny
NC01ZZ
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
The red lines show where the hook could get a grip on my axles. It required a helper holding the hook in place while I operated the ram. I was replacing both axles with new ones, so I didn't care if I pulled the CV joints apart--and one did come apart. It helps to have the wheel hubs wired out of the way to give more room to work. It also required getting a little mad and ramming the #$%@$% things dozens of times!


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/270422_Grip_Points_3.jpg

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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MALICHI
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I see.

Thank you very much NC, Im off to go try that.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOYOTECH
  • MEMBER
  • 33 POSTS
If you have a compressor and an air hammer with a hammer head bit you can hit the axle/motor mount and the axle shaft will literally walk itself out. If this is not an option and the original problem is in the outer cv joint, consider replacing half of the shaft separating the shaft at the six hex bolts. Use extreme caution if you go this way because moving that inner joint too far in or out will cause the big cv bearings to fall out. It can be put back together, but it can also be put back together incorrectly. Not an easy job. You will use every profanity in your arsenal.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MB7
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
The older shafts/joints had the six hex bolts. Remove those, separate the inner joint, and attach an axle puller (the piece with 3 slots on one side and one on the other) with 2 of the bolts. May also need washers. Then attach the slide hammer and yank it out. If the slide hammer weight is not enough I used a 25lb metal barbell weight instead. This saves you from ruining the shaft and not getting your $75 core refund. The Toyota reman shaft assembly that I installed in 2006 did not have the bolts. After nothing else worked I plan to weld a 1/2 metal plate onto the inner joint surface (after removing the boot clamp and collar) with a 3/4 -16 nut welded onto the plate. The slide hammer will screw into the nut allowing the shaft and bearing to be removed from the mount.
When I did it the first time I polished up the bore with crocus cloth and then applied antiseize. But it still froze. I think I'll use synthetic grease this time.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TERESA BLALOCK
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I know this post was years ago but my husband just did the same exact job for his friends 1996 camry passenger side cv axle and after dislocating the joint at the inner boot he used a grinder with a cut off blade and had to cut the axle close to the bearing and then again about 4 or 5 inches from the transmission so he could slide the axle out of the trans. Then had to take the motor mount off and knock the bearing out with a 16 pound sledge hammer and it took him about 7 over the head swings to get it out. Definitely a design flaw by Toyota but after the bearing came out it was literally 30 minutes and he was driving it around the block. Hope this helps someone in the future.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,940 POSTS
Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site. :)

Cheers, Ken
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LUKE SUMTHINSHINY
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1996 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 165,000 MILES
Started hearing clicking noise, knew it was probably cracked worn boot [had a 1993 Camry and had to have axle replaced]. This time, however, I was stopped to swipe my card at the company gate, when I started to accelerate there was a kind of bang/pop/clunk, and then the car would not move forward, or backward. Put it in low1 to see be sure it was not a transmission solenoid. When putting the car into park the car still rolled. Towed it home, and when looking under it to evaluate, I noticed that when I turned the passenger side axle the driver side axle still turned as well. I also noticed that the passenger side axle boot was ripped [looked newly torn]. Closer to the transmission, it looked like the axle had slid to the passenger side, and if slid back in [except for the boot] it would be okay. This is the first axle I am doing myself, and I want to be sure to catch everything [will replace ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bars and links while its apart, for both sides]. So the ultimate question I am asking, is how can I be sure that the problem is indeed the axle and not something else?
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,744 POSTS
It sounds like you are describing the inner CV joint has slid out of the transmission. If it comes out far enough to where it is no longer engaged with the spines, turning one wheel will not cause the other one to turn the opposite way. (Transmission has to be in "park" for that). By jacking the car up, you may have disturbed the joint enough that it is just barely engaged, then the other wheel will turn when you turn one.

Inner CV joints can have a wire ring on the shaft that helps to hold them in, but mainly that is done with a spring inside the joint. On the new shaft, you will find you can compress that spring with real hard hand pressure. I suspect that spring is broken in your old joint. If it is, you will be able to slide the joint back and forth on the shaft about an inch or two. I do know you can buy that spring from the Chrysler dealer's parts department for $3.00, but if you also have a torn boot, you are better off replacing the entire shaft. On Toyota's, the outer joint cannot be removed to replace the boot. You have to remove the inner joint and boot, then slide the new outer boot all the way across the shaft, then put the inner joint back together.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LUKE SUMTHINSHINY
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I thank you for such a prompt and accurate reply. I think that may be exactly what has happened, just as you described. I guess I was surprised when all the DIY videos I watched showed a hose clamp style spring ring that had to be removed in order to remove the axle. Sounds like my concern about the driver's side not having one should be null. As far as the driver's side goes, is there any alternative to removing the CV axle without a hammer puller? It looks okay, but for $50.00 seems like now is the time to replace it while its apart. Thank you again.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,940 POSTS
Hello,

Yes the bearing sliding out of the carrier is the problem. You see the jam bolt in the side the carrier? See if that is loose or loosen it and preposition the bearing and re tighten.

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken
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