Car stalls and shakes no engine performance?

MODDYMODD

MEMBER
2007 TOYOTA RAV4
2.4L
4 CYL
2WD
AUTOMATIC
203,000 MILES

Cut wire and bare metal is exposed while changing stereo to power steering were wired but didn’t put anything on. The code lights went off, but few days later I get mass air flow code low and high circuit and traction control light and also stability control and engine light. The car is hard to crank and stalls when braking and turning at low speeds. I have brakes booster performance range code and control moisture bus off code also changed at filter and MAF sensor same issues.

5 Replies

KEN L

MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
42,883 POSTS

Can I get the code numbers please? Also have you checked all of the fuses? Here is a guide to help with that and the fuse location as well, test them with the key on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens. You might have burned up the main body ECU. I would do a CAN scan.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/can-scan-controller-area-network-easy

Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

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Sunday, February 5th, 2023 AT 11:36 AM

MODDYMODD

MEMBER
3 POSTS

It's usually when I brakes and turn the steering wheel or turn a corner going slow it wants to shut off or stall and I have to pump the gas at keep the car from shutting off then it runs fine but rpms stay under 3,000 on highway and doesn't move with the speedometer. Below are the codes.

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Sunday, February 5th, 2023 AT 12:13 PM

JIS001

MECHANIC
3,408 POSTS

When the check engine light comes on so does the ABS light. For now, we need to ignore the ABS light as this may not be an issue or a separate problem. What we need to focus on is P0171 as the root cause of the fault before we address the Mass Air Flow sensor. If that is an off brand that can also present problems since they are not properly calibrated.

First thing we need is the freeze frame data for P0171. We need to see if the code posted at idle or cruising. If at cruising, then the MAF could potentially be the culprit. If it was at idle, then sounds like a vacuum leak or low fuel pressure.

Here are some repair guides on how to check those items:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Please provide the freeze frame data or your test results to advise on the next steps.

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Sunday, February 5th, 2023 AT 6:19 PM

MODDYMODD

MEMBER
3 POSTS

Could it be the battery or the voltage to certain circuits or sensors? The PCM might not be getting enough voltage, it says lie circuit input and high input and everything was fine until I blew a fuse running to change my radio. So, I took and changed fuses without disabling the battery cable, but it could also be late oil change 10-15,000 miles over. It stalls mainly when I’m driving slowly and turning into a corner pressing the brakes causes the most trouble at low speeds. It could be the throttle response or the boosters, but the pedal goes firm and releases itself when I turn the car on. So, I’m not too sure if that’s the issue either airflow or fuel pressure was my guess too but I recently changed the fuel pump 20-30,000 miles ago in November 2022.

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Sunday, February 5th, 2023 AT 8:24 PM

JIS001

MECHANIC
3,408 POSTS

C1241 you usually get when battery voltage is low. That may have set when you left the key on too long. If memory was lost to the engine control module, then start by disconnecting the battery and while disconnected clean out the throttle body bore.

Here is a link that explains how to do the service:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Try that first and let us know if that helped you out. If it doesn't then you will need to do the fuel pressure test and vacuum leak check for issues.