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Car stalls after running for a while with heavy smoking

Tiny
DARKWING
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 NISSAN MAXIMA
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 220,000 MILES
Car just got running after replacing an alternator with a locked up pulley. Was running fine until after about thirty to forty minutes of highway driving then began to stall and smoke heavily (smells like burnt rubber). Car would start up repeatedly but would stall shortly after acceleration. The final attempt the car stopped cranking and headlights would not come on. Battery has 12.3 volts reading and have not tried again since to see if it will cold start yet (still have to get a ride back to where I left it on the highway) any ideas that may help me isolate this newest problem?
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Monday, September 26th, 2016 AT 3:12 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check for the same problem if you smelled burnt rubber it may be doing the same with the replaced part. Did you replace belt and tensioner as well as that can be it. Sounds like it is not charging and battery just went down to far to run.
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Monday, September 26th, 2016 AT 3:46 PM
Tiny
DARKWING
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Belt and tensioner seem fine. Not squealing and pulleys all turn freely. I will check again just in case, but before I drove off with it the voltmeter read 13.55 volts. I am pretty sure the alternator is doing its job.
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Monday, September 26th, 2016 AT 5:32 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check battery for condition including a load test. Most places do for free. Then scan for codes.
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Tuesday, September 27th, 2016 AT 7:13 AM
Tiny
RENEE L
  • ADMIN
  • 1,257 POSTS
Hello DARKWING,

Here is a link to an article form this site that features written instructions, pictures and a video explaining how to load test your battery yourself. I have also included a link to another article form this site that features written instructions and pictures explaining how to scan for codes yourself, and a link to our YouTube channel with a how to video on code scanning. Most scanners are inexpensive to purchase, you can purchase one online from sites like Amazon.com.

Once you have the codes please get back to us so that we can further assist you. Thank you for visiting
2CarPros.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-battery

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Kindest regards,

Renee
Admin
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Tuesday, September 27th, 2016 AT 2:33 PM
Tiny
DARKWING
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Alright I got some 4 codes from the manual cel check: 1302, 0205, 0603, 0803. Battery turns out fine after load test and for the life of me I can't get the engine to stall while idling only stalls once it's been driven for a good while. Did find an oil leak in the front valve cover gasket that drips on a heat shield only when running so I guess that's the heavy smoking right there but I'm a little lost when I tried to look up these codes
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Wednesday, September 28th, 2016 AT 10:01 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Are you sure these codes are correct? We have no listing at all of these
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Wednesday, September 28th, 2016 AT 12:01 PM
Tiny
DARKWING
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
They were the codes the cel blinked when I turned the screw on the ECU. From what I read it said the long blinks were the first two digits and the short blinks were the last two. I guess they are Nissan codes? When I tried looking them up I was confused. Only one I recognized was cylinder 6 misfire. One said absolute pressure sensor and one said map/barro saw solenoid/valve. I didn't think my car had those sensors but instead has a MAF sensor. The other code said idle speed control which I can only guess is the TPS or the IACV? I took these notes when on a Nissan forum but not sure if they are correct
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Wednesday, September 28th, 2016 AT 2:59 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Ok I relooked in a different area and found them. One may be a vacuum leak to the ap sensor or low voltage going to it. The 303 is an O2 sensor on rh bank, but if manifold is cracked will give same reading so check for that.603 is #6 cyl misfire andwith those it's best to have a pro diagnose it so you don't spend a ton of money trying to fix it. You can check plug wire resistance and compression but I wouldn't go any further as it may be one of the sensors screwing up causing it. For idle air check to see if it' gets power and ihas a good conection you might try cleaning it with choke cleaner along with throttle plate on both sides may cure it.1302 is pmap sensor so check for a bad sensor or a vacuum leak as that can cause a misfire as well. The ap sensor can also cause this code to pop up as well. See pic for ap sensor.
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Wednesday, September 28th, 2016 AT 3:14 PM
Tiny
DARKWING
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Alright I tested the AP sensor with a vacuum pump and multimeter and it checks out fine. I also tested the MAP/BARRO switch for function, power, and ground. They both check out. The vacuum hose that connects both together looked fine but I had a few feet of hose lying around so I went ahead and replaced the hose and when I started the car the CEL isn't on anymore. I let it idle for a good 15 mins and it didn't come back on. I didn't disconnect the battery or reset the codes so does that mean they are truly cleared or should I drive it for awhile to see if it comes back on?
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Saturday, October 1st, 2016 AT 12:36 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
They aren't cleared they are just stored in memory so the next time you hook up a scanner they will show up because they weren't erased. Drive it but they probably won't come back.
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Saturday, October 1st, 2016 AT 12:46 PM

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