Camshaft Position Sensor Location and Replacement?

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,336 POSTS
Hi,

You are very welcome. I have a feeling that replacing the other sensor isn't going to remedy the problem. The code you have is specific to the sensor you already replaced.

Here is the actual flow chart for diagnostics related to this code. I feel bad attaching it. LOL I don't how comfortable you feel doing it, but thought it may be of interest to you. If you look at that last pic I attached, it shows a list of things that can cause this code.

_________________________________

2015 Ford Truck F 150 4WD V6-2.7L Turbo
DR: Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor - Pinpoint Test
Vehicle Powertrain Management Computers and Control Systems Testing and Inspection Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures Powertrain Control / Emission Diagnostics (PCED) SECTION 5: Pinpoint Tests DR: Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor - Pinpoint Test
DR: CAMSHAFT POSITION (CMP) SENSOR - PINPOINT TEST
DR: Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor

DR: Introduction See: Computers and Control Systems > Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures > DR: Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor - Introduction

DR1 CHECK FOR DTCS

Are DTCs P0340, P0341, P0344, P0345, P0346, P0349, P0365, P0366, P0369, P0390, P0391, or P0394 present?
Yes

- For vehicles with DTCs and a no crank or no start symptom, GO to DR5
.

- For all others, GO to DR2
.

No

- For symptoms without DTCs, GO to DR2
.

- For all others, RETURN to Section 3 See: Computers and Control Systems > Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures > SECTION 3: Symptom Charts
, Symptom Charts for further direction.

DR2 INSPECT THE HARNESS

- Ignition OFF.

- Check the harness for routing, alterations, incorrect shielding, or electrical interference from other systems.

- Check the CMP connector for damage or corrosion.
Is a concern present?
Yes

- REPAIR as necessary.

- Clear the PCM DTCs. REPEAT the self-test.

No

- GO to DR3
.

DR3 CLEAR AND ATTEMPT TO RETRIEVE THE DTC

Note:Consider the ignition system, alternator noise, radio frequency interference and crankshaft position (CKP) sensor concerns if DTCs P0340, P0341, P0344, P0345, P0346, P0349, P0365, P0366, P0369, P0390, P0391, or P0394 are present.
Note:For vehicles with variable camshaft timing (VCT), concerns with the engine oil level, oil filter, oil contamination, or the VCT system may cause camshaft positioning errors.

- Ignition ON, engine OFF.

- Clear the PCM DTCs.

- Ignition ON, engine running.

- Increase engine speed to greater than 1,500 RPM for 10 seconds. Repeat this 3 times.

- Carry out the PCM self-test.
Are DTCs P0340, P0341, P0344, P0345, P0346, P0349, P0365, P0366, P0369, P0390, P0391 or P0394 present?
Yes

- GO to DR4
.

No

- For symptoms without DTCs, RETURN to Section 3 See: Computers and Control Systems > Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures > SECTION 3: Symptom Charts
, Symptom Charts for further direction.

- For all others, GO to Pinpoint Test Z See: Computers and Control Systems > Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures > Z: Intermittent - Introduction
.

DR4 CHECK THE GENERATOR FOR EXCESSIVE ELECTRICAL NOISE

Note:If the generator/regulator is electrically noisy, the noise decreases when the B+ connector is disconnected.

- Ignition ON, engine running.

- Monitor the generator for an audible electric noise.

- Ignition OFF.

- Generator/regulator B+ connector disconnected.

- Ignition ON, engine running.

- With the engine running, determine if the generator noise remains steady, decreases or increases in volume.
Does the generator noise remain steady when the B+ connector is disconnected?
Yes

- CONNECT the generator/regulator B+ connector.

- GO to DR5
.

No

- REFER to the Service Information Section 414-00, Charging System, to DIAGNOSE the generator is noisy symptom.

DR5 CHECK THE VOLTAGE TO THE CMP SENSOR

Note:Diagnose the suspect CMP sensor indicated by the DTC. For 2 pin VR type CMP sensor DTCs, GO to DR6.

- CMP Sensor connector disconnected.

- Ignition ON, engine OFF.

- For VBPWR CMP sensors,

- Measure the voltage between:

pic 1

- For VREF CMP sensors,

- Measure the voltage between:

pic 2

Is the voltage greater than 10.5 V on the VBPWR circuit or between 4.5 and 5.5 V on the VREF circuit?
Yes

- GO to DR7
.

No

- For Edge 2.0L,

- Escape/Kuga 1.6L,

- Escape/Kuga 2.0L,

- Explorer 2.0L,

- Fiesta,

- Focus,

- Fusion 1.5L,

- Fusion 1.6L,

- Fusion 2.0L,

- MKC,

- MKT 2.0L,

- MKZ 2.0L,

- Mustang 2.3L,

- Taurus 2.0L, and

- Transit Connect 1.6L, GO to Pinpoint Test C See: Computers and Control Systems > Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated Procedures > C: Reference Voltage (VREF) - Introduction
.

- For all others, REPAIR the open circuit.

- Clear the PCM DTCs. REPEAT the self-test.

DR6 CHECK THE CMP SENSOR RESISTANCE

Note:Diagnose the suspect CMP sensor indicated by the DTC.

- Ignition OFF.

- CMP Sensor connector disconnected.

- Measure the resistance between:

pic 3

Pic 4

Is the resistance within specification?
Yes

- GO to DR7
.

No

- INSTALL a new CMP sensor. REFER to the Service Information Section 303-14, Electronic Engine Controls.

- Clear the PCM DTCs. REPEAT the self-test.

DR7 CHECK THE CMP SENSOR CIRCUITS FOR AN OPEN

- PCM connector disconnected.

- Measure the resistance between:

pic 5

Are the resistances less than 5 ohms?
Yes

- GO to DR8
.

No

- REPAIR the open circuit. Clear the PCM DTCs. REPEAT the self-test.

DR8 CHECK THE CMP CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT

- Measure the resistance between:

pic 6

- Measure the resistance between:

pic 7

Are the resistances greater than 10K ohms?
Yes

- GO to DR9
.

No

- REPAIR the short circuit. Clear the PCM DTCs. REPEAT the self-test.

DR9 CHECK THE CMP CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO VOLTAGE

- Ignition ON, engine OFF.

- Measure the voltage between:

pic 8

Is any voltage present?
Yes

- REPAIR the short circuit. Clear the PCM DTCs. REPEAT the self-test.

No

- For E-Series,

- F-650 / F-750,

- F-Series Super Duty 6.8L, and

- Motorhome / Stripped Chassis / Step Van, GO to DR11
.

- For all others, GO to DR10
.

DR10 CHECK FOR VARIABLE CAMSHAFT TIMING (VCT) CONCERNS

Note:Only diagnose the bank indicated by the DTC.

- CMP Sensor connector connected.

- PCM connector connected.

- Check the VCT system for correct operation.
Is a concern present?
Yes

- REPAIR as necessary.

- Clear the PCM DTCs. REPEAT the self-test.

No

- GO to DR11
.

DR11 CHECK THE CMP SENSOR OPERATION

- Ignition OFF.

- CMP Sensor connector connected.

- PCM connector connected.

- Ignition ON, engine running.

- Access the PCM and monitor the SYNC (MODE) PID.
Does the engine start and does the SYNC PID read YES?
Yes

- GO to DR12
.

No

- INSTALL a new CMP sensor. REFER to the Service Information Section 303-14, Electronic Engine Controls.

- Clear the PCM DTCs. REPEAT the self-test.

DR12 CHECK FOR DTCS

- Carry out the PCM self-test.
Are any DTCs present?
Yes

- INSTALL a new CMP sensor. REFER to the Service Information Section 303-14, Electronic Engine Controls.

- Clear the PCM DTCs. REPEAT the self-test.

No

- The system is operating correctly at this time. The concern may have been caused by a loose or corroded connector.

- Clear the PCM DTCs. REPEAT the self-test.

_________________________________________________________

It's likely that you now hate me for attaching this. LOL Regardless, let me know what you find.

Take care,
Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ECO2015
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
LOL, I don't hate you! When I read your response what I thought was that it's time to take it to the shop!

So, I ended up taking it to a mechanic and he hooked his scanner to it and the first code that popped up was Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit Code DTC P0001

The mechanic mentioned to me that the fuel issue was causing the truck to throw the camshaft sensor code DTC P0365. He reset everything and got the light off and the truck smoothed out.

So I ended up driving home without the check engine light on but the truck still had the dramatic loss in power and when I shut it off and started it the check engine light came back on.

So I think that the AutoZone's scanner did not catch the real issue. I am trying to figure out what to do from here.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DEWAYNE RACHELS
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 2014 FORD F-150
  • 3.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • TURBO
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 90,000 MILES
I’ve been searching for hours. I can’t find it on my truck or online to show me where it is on my truck.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning,

I attached a picture of the locations of the sensors. You have 4 sensors, 2 intakes, and 2 exhaust.

Why are you replacing the sensor? Was there a code? If there was, what is the code?

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ECO2015
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I can't even seem to find the correct part if I wanted to change the fuel pressure regulator just to take a stab at it.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DEWAYNE RACHELS
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
The code was p0365.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,336 POSTS
There isn't a traditional regulator on this vehicle. It is controlled by a two fuel pump control modules. The two fuel pump control modules modulate the voltage to the 2 fuel pumps (FP) required to achieve the correct fuel pressure. Voltage for the two fuel pumps is supplied by the power relay and fuel pump control module relay. See pic 1. On the fuel rail is a FRPT sensor which signals the control module of real time pressure so the module can adjust voltage to the pumps.

Let me know if this helps explain.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DEWAYNE RACHELS
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Which 2 are the exhaust?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ECO2015
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
That makes a lot of sense. I wondered if it worked something like that.

So what would be the first move on this?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Okay, bank 1 is the passenger side of the engine. The sensor is the one that is closest to the exhaust manifold.

This code indicates a voltage issue with the wiring. I would verify there is 5 volts to the sensor and the return line to the ECM is not damaged or open.

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,336 POSTS
At this point, I would simply start by testing fuel pump pressure at the fuel rail to see if it is within the manufacturer's specs. Here is a link that shows in general how it is done.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

____________________________________

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. You will need a fuel pressure gauge, but most parts stores will lend one to you with hopes of selling you a new part. lol

The attached pics will correlate with these directions.

____________________________________
2015 Ford Truck F 150 4WD V6-2.7L Turbo
Fuel System Pressure Check
Vehicle Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Fuel Pump Fuel Pressure Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics Fuel System Pressure Check
FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE CHECK

Fuel System Pressure Check

Special Tool(s)/ General Equipment

pic 1

Check
NOTE: This Fuel System Pressure Check is for the low pressure side of the system.

1. Release the fuel system pressure.
Refer to: Fuel System Pressure Release See: Fuel Pressure Release > Procedures > Fuel System Pressure Release (310-00A Fuel System - General Information - 2.7L EcoBoost (238kW/324PS), General Procedures).

2. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
Refer to: Battery Disconnect and Connect See: Battery > Procedures > Battery Disconnect and Connect (414-01 Battery, Mounting and Cables, General Procedures).

3. Remove nuts and the engine appearance cover.
Torque : 42 lb.in (4.8 Nm)

pic 2

4. Remove the High Pressure Fuel Pump noise insulator.

pic 3

5. Disconnect the fuel supply line-to-high pressure pump quick release coupling.
Refer to: Quick Release Coupling See: Fuel Line Coupler > Procedures > Quick Release Coupling (310-00A Fuel System - General Information - 2.7L EcoBoost (238kW/324PS), General Procedures).

6. Install the Fuel Pressure Test Kit between the fuel supply line and the high pressure pump.
Use Special Service Tool: 310-D009 (D95L-7211-A) Fuel Pressure Test Kit.

pic 4

7. NOTE: The Fuel Pump (FP) control module electrical connector was previously disconnected to release the fuel system pressure and must be reconnected to test the fuel system pressure.

Reconnect the Fuel Pump (FP) control module electrical connector.

8. Reconnect the battery ground cable.
Refer to: Battery Disconnect and Connect See: Battery > Procedures > Battery Disconnect and Connect (414-01 Battery, Mounting and Cables, General Procedures).

9. NOTE: Carry out a Key ON Engine OFF (KOEO) visual inspection for fuel leaks prior to completing the fuel system pressure test.

Test the fuel system pressure to make sure it is within the specified range. For additional information, refer to Specifications.

10. After completion of the fuel system pressure test, disconnect the battery ground cable, open the drain valve on the Fuel Pressure Test Kit and release any residual fluid into an appropriate container.
Refer to: Battery Disconnect and Connect See: Battery > Procedures > Battery Disconnect and Connect (414-01 Battery, Mounting and Cables, General Procedures).

11. Remove the Fuel Pressure Test Kit by reversing the installation steps.

______________________

The last pic shows pressure specifications.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,
Joe

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
The ones that are closest to the exhaust manifolds.

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ECO2015
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Joe let know one ever tell you that you are not the man.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DEWAYNE RACHELS
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thank you for the information. Nothing I have read mentioned 2 sensors (exhaust). I had to get my OBD tool. The tool actually shows 6 DTC's the other code is P0369, it shows both the codes 3 times each.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,336 POSTS
LOL. Did you get it going again?

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AJB442
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2013 FORD F-150
  • 3.5L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
I have a transient code p0016 along with a turbo under boost code. It comes and goes there is no noise from the motor or timing chain. I will be driving and the truck performs normal turbo engages and runs smooth. Then I will loose the turbo the truck will run smooth though under powered. Turning the truck off and restarting often clears the symptoms for a while. I have replaced the cam sensor and located and removed the crank sensor but am having a difficult time reinstalling the new one. I cant seem to locate the opening for the pick up on the sensor. Does it seat into a hole like the cam sensor?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Okay, I posted the 369 possibilities as well.

Check the connectors to all 4 sensors.

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ECO2015
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
No, not yet. My mechanic is a certified diesel mechanic and suggested I take it into the dealership. He told me that his gut is telling him that its the PCM with the trouble shooting he's done.

That bums me out because I was literally planning on trading my truck in this weekend and buying another one. I am 99% sure that it falls under the warranty though.

I thought I found the PCM but not sure. ECM - Ford (GD9Z-12A650-AANP).
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMDOUBLE
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,139 POSTS
It doesn't fit into the same kind of recess exactly like the cam sensor, which makes it way harder to line up the bolt. It truly takes patience and you have to hold your tongue just right to get that bolt lined up perfectly. I usually put my finger in the area to feel for it to determine the location and to sum up about how far it is before I try to put the sensor in.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,336 POSTS
I attached a picture below of the PCM's location. Part number (GD9Z12A650AANP), so you have the correct number. Interestingly, the directions to remove and replace refer to it as a PCM, but under the parts, it is referred to the ECM. They are the same thing. LOL

Let me know if this helps.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM (Merged)

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links