Boiling overflow

Hello my name is Dave.

First thing we need to know is if it's overheating and even if it's not has it overheated in the recent past? If it hasn't overheated then I would suspect that the coolant cap needs replaced. The cap is designed to keep a specific amount of pressure on the cooling system and if has worn out then it will cause bubbling in the tank as you described.

If it has overheated then the concern would be a blown head gasket, the best way to test for this is a block leak tester. You can get these as a loner tool from your local auto parts store however you will have to buy the fluid that goes in it. The tester comes with instructions just make sure to follow them carefully and they will give you a definite answer if this is the issue.
If you can let us know what happens we would be interested in how it turns out and thank you for using 2CarPros!

Hi,

It could be the cooling fan is not running because it has a faulty cooling fan relay. This is common on this vehicle. I'm attaching wiring diagram, relay location and repair guides below. I;m listing cooling fan relay diagnostics also. Let us know if this information was helpful and if you need more info.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-an-overheating-engine

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Diagnostic Procedure:

1. Disconnect the Radiator Fan Relay harness connector. Ignition Off. Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, probe the Ground circuit Z723, Pin 3 of the Radiator Fan Relay harness connector. Verify the test light illuminates.
--> If the test light does NOT illuminate, repair the open Z723 Ground circuit and retest.
--> If the test light illuminates, proceed to the next step.

2. Radiator Fan Relay harness connector disconnected. Ignition On. Verify the Fused B+ Output circuit A112 voltage in the Radiator Fan harness connector pin 1 is above 11.0 volts.
--> If the voltage is above 11.0 volts, proceed to the next step.
--> If the voltage is NOT above 11.0 volts, inspect the Radiator Fan fuse located in the Integrated Power Module (IPM) and/or Repair the (A112) Fused B+ circuit and retest.

IMPORTANT: If the IPM fuse is open verify radiator fan motor current draw before replacing the Radiator Fan Control Relay. Excessive current draw can damage the Radiator Fan Control Relay.

3. Radiator Fan Relay harness connector disconnected. Ignition Off. Using a 30 amp fused jumper wire connect circuits A112, pin 1 to circuit N23 pin 2 and verify both cooling fans are running at full speed. Allow the fans to run for 2 minutes to verify the current draw does not open the fuse.
--> If both fans run at full speed for 2 minutes and the fuse does NOT open, proceed to the next step.
--> If the fuse opens, test and repair the cooling fan motors individually for excessive current draw. Proceed to the next step.

4. Radiator Fan Relay harness connector disconnected. Ignition On. Using a digital logic probe verify a pulse width signal on circuit K173 from the PCM at pin 4 of the fan relay harness connector, when the A/C is switched On to the high position.
--> If there is a pulse width signal from the PCM at pin 4, replace the Radiator Fan Control Relay.
--> If there is NOT a pulse width signal from the PCM at pin 4, and the circuit is Okay, replace the PCM and retest.

Thank you
Joe T