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2002 BMW 325 Drain

Tiny
MANTATER
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 BMW 325
  • 6 CYL
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
About a year ago car started dying and would not start so the shop put a new battery and alternator in. Car drove fine for about 3 months then set for about a month because we moved. Got car shipped out, it ran for a couple of weeks then started going dead about every 3-4days needing a jump in-between. I asked wife and son if they left anything on as they drive it most and they were unsure?

I wanted to try doing a currrent draw check so I bought a DMM and pulled the negative battery cable. I put my DMM on 10amp scale and hooked up Pos lead to neg post & neg lead to neg cable. My first head scratcher came with the meter itself. It read 13.84? I figured maybe the decimal was moved a place for me. I.E. I was expecting milliamps, decimal to the left etc. (Unfamiliar DMM) Mine is still in storage from the move.

So I proceeded to pull fuses. The only change came when I pulled number 41 (30amp radio, navigation-not installed & on-board diag). The kicker is it went up not down, to about 18.45. I have not pulled the big 50amper ones yet which I believe are like relays? And am wandering if battery is bad. AutoZone checked it said it was good but they did it in the car. Any suggestion appreciated.
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Saturday, June 27th, 2009 AT 9:15 PM

12 Replies

Tiny
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The #1 key off draw issue with that car is the final stage unit part number 64-11-6-920-365 available from Realoem. Com, the other is the auxiliary fan final stage. If you put your hand on it and it is warm, you will have found the problem, or if it is the metal case and there is a voltage present at the case.
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Saturday, June 27th, 2009 AT 10:52 PM
Tiny
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Dr,

Thank you for your prompt response. Am I to assume that my readings are just not telling me anything? Also your web page "realoem. Com is excellent. According to the diagram and your post you are suspecting either diagram number 3 "the final stage unit" or number 1 "the actual fan"? I am not sure what you mean by "the other is the aux fan final stage"?
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Sunday, June 28th, 2009 AT 10:09 AM
Tiny
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Sorry, the aux fan sits in front of the air conditioning condenser and is controlled with a similar type of final stage unit that has power all the time, just like the final stage for the fan in the car, and when they fail, they draw current all the time. To be sure we are communicating, I request you first look at the final stage that I mentioned in the previous post and let me know if it is the old(e) style with a metal case and tapered heat sink "teeth" or the new style with a plastic case (not from China) If the old style is in there, it's a pretty good bet that is the draw. You'll see. Let me know.
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Sunday, June 28th, 2009 AT 10:31 AM
Tiny
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OK,

Sorry for the dealy. I am enclosing a picture of what I think is the final stage your are talking about? Is this it? Sorry for the focus. It does appear to be metal. It has a plug that plugs directly into it. I accessed it by removing the glove box and through the under dash middle console. If this is it, does it pull right out? I noticed to screw holes but no screws. May have been accessed before? Thanks
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Sunday, June 28th, 2009 AT 5:00 PM
Tiny
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Sorry again,

I thought it would upload my image stored on my computer.
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Sunday, June 28th, 2009 AT 5:32 PM
Tiny
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The first one is it.
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Sunday, June 28th, 2009 AT 8:05 PM
Tiny
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OK,

I got the chance to unplug the final stage unit yesterday after work. I jumped the car and took it for about an 1 1/2 ride. I let it sit overnight hoping this week that it would not drain down. Unfortunately instead of three or four days it would not start the next morning. I am afraid that the battery although only a year old may have been short charged to many times this past month and need a deep charge or something else is wrong. Will keep you posted. I was wanting to ask if the aux fan under the hood does become the next guess if it is just the plastic electrical connection that sits on top of the fan shroud?

Tom
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Friday, July 3rd, 2009 AT 11:28 AM
Tiny
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To find the culprit, use an ammeter and start pulling fuses.
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Saturday, July 4th, 2009 AT 11:50 PM
Tiny
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Probably thought I forgot about ya huh. As I mentioned in my first post I am in the middle of a job relocation. We just got in our new home and out of the Motel last week. Things had to sit awhile. I purchased a new battery, especially for BMW's and started pulling fuses. I had not tried the 50 amp ones so I started with no 35 (DSC). Guess what? Bingo! Went from 2.6A down to.700ma. This is some kind of traction control isin't it? Is there a module I can replace on this bad boy?
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Friday, July 24th, 2009 AT 5:11 PM
Tiny
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Darn!

I should have double checked before I posted. Guess I was just excited to get back at it and have some luck. When I double checked my findings it was 700ma with or without the fuse. I thought 2.5 was a little high or maybe I reset something when I pulled it?
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Friday, July 24th, 2009 AT 5:35 PM
Tiny
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OK

Not sure if I am talking to myself or if anybody is still interested in helping or not (I am still willing to pay when I feel like it is solved).I have figured out a few things though. First it seems the vehicle must be allowed to settle out after being on. Also, the readings take a full minute sometimes to settle as well. I am finally getting readings that make sense. I get around.200amp with fuse 37 (50amp, electric fan) in. It drops way down when I pull it, around.008/9 amp. I also noticed you have to give it a minute or so to jump back up when you plug it back in. Anyway, what I need is to know what this controls. The fan in front of the radiator stays on with the fuse pulled. The AC fan works with it pulled, so which 'electric fan' is this and how do I fix or find the relay?
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Saturday, July 25th, 2009 AT 12:10 PM
Tiny
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Sorry, I dont visit this site everyday. There is a allowable amount of key off draw and for that model it is.05 amps and yes there is a period of time involved when the car goes to sleep, it can be as much as 16 minutes. This is for the modules throughout the car to be polled and send any error reports. There may be a fault present that is pertinent to this discussion such as a door module or such that is showing a fault and not turning off or going to sleep. There are also possibilities if any aftermarket items are involved such as amps or alarms or I-pod stuff. Have you had the vehicle in the shop for a scan with the proprietary BMW software or autologic software?
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Saturday, July 25th, 2009 AT 7:08 PM

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