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Air Conditioning not blowing cold

Tiny
THEOMANN
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 LAND ROVER RANGE ROVER
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 125,000 MILES
I have recharged the A/C with Freon, after repairing a schrader valve. After the repair, the system has no leaks and is fully charged.

The blower is working and moving air into the cabin just fine but the air is not cold. No fuses are blown.

I jumped the compressor by connecting it directly to battery and the clutch engages.

I performed a system vacuum before refilling it with Freon.

I am not sure of what to do next to diagnose and fix this problem.

(engine is 4.4L not 5.4)
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Wednesday, April 4th, 2018 AT 10:52 PM

9 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 12,972 POSTS
As a first question, do all of the controls seem to work if you select heat, can you make it hot/warm/cold, and can you direst the air from defrost/vents/floor okay? That would narrow it down a bit. Does the compressor engage if you select AC on the controls or will it only engage when you jumper it? What is the resting pressure in the system with the engine off and how much R134A did you add to the system?
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Thursday, April 5th, 2018 AT 7:15 PM
Tiny
THEOMANN
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  • 5 POSTS
Thanks Steve. I filled it with two cans, according to spec. The heater does work and blows hot air.

The clutch does not seem to be engaging when I turn on AC, only when I jump it.

Also, the air does move from floor to vents to defrost perfectly.
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Thursday, April 5th, 2018 AT 7:55 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 12,972 POSTS
First thing will be to check the ref. Pressure sensor. If the system sat for a while without pressure it may have stuck or failed. It is item 7 on the pic. It should have 5 volts to one wire and 0-5 volts that changes with pressure on the other. With a full system charge you shouldn't see either 0 or 5 volts on that wire if the sensor is good, it should be somewhere between them.

I would also verify that all of the system fuses are good. The easy way is to use a test light connected to a good ground. Turn on the key and test every fuse, if they light the light on both sides they are good.

Do you have the manual controls or the automatic system, other components vary depending on the controls.
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Friday, April 6th, 2018 AT 1:07 PM
Tiny
THEOMANN
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Sorry, I do not quite understand what you mean by testing the fuses. Should I test the fuses themselves or the slots?

Also, I do not see any wires on item 7, just the valve. What am I missing?
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Friday, April 6th, 2018 AT 2:01 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 12,972 POSTS
Test the fuses while they are installed and powered. I have seen a lot of fuses that looked just fine but when you tested them they were actually bad.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

In the picture it was just to show you the location of the sensor. On your vehicle that sensor should have a connector on it with wires, If it does not have the wires that is probably the problem, search around and the connector should be there someplace.

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Friday, April 6th, 2018 AT 4:05 PM
Tiny
THEOMANN
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
These are the only two connectors that are anywhere close to that valve. Would one of those likely be it?

(I removed the screw top so the valve would be visible)
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Saturday, April 7th, 2018 AT 12:08 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 12,972 POSTS
The valve you show there should be one of the service valves, where you connect gauges or an AC machine up to test, discharge, recharge the system. The pressure switch should be in the line going from the condenser core (near radiator) to the evaporator core inside the car. Follow the line and you should find it.
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Saturday, April 7th, 2018 AT 7:08 PM
Tiny
THEOMANN
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I have followed the line and I can't find it for the life of me.
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Friday, April 13th, 2018 AT 1:30 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 12,972 POSTS
Follow the other line that goes down the passenger side. The side you show in the video is the low pressure line. The sensor is in the high pressure line.
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Friday, April 13th, 2018 AT 3:21 PM

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