A/C pressure switch

Tiny
DROCK03
  • MEMBER
  • 2015 FORD EXPLORER
  • 3.5L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 174,232 MILES
My compressor or clutch isn’t engaging so no cold air. Freon is good checked that already. There’s a 10amp mini fuse (A/C clutch) I checked w/meter and it didn’t have continuity. Put a new one in still nothing. I still have to check the A/C clutch relay and I want to check the AC pressure switch or switches. I can’t find the switches though. Can you help me locate these switches? I followed to A/C tubing but it goes back to firewall. I’m wondering if I have to remove manifold to get to them assuming they’re back there? But that’s the thing I don’t know where these particular ones are for this vehicle. Thank you.
Thursday, September 23rd, 2021 AT 6:13 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Couple things we need to start with. First we need to make sure that the pressures are correct. I understand you said you checked them but most people use one of those gauges on a fill can and that is not going to be accurate enough to find out if the pressure sensor is cutting it off.

Here is a guide that will help with checking this with a gauge set:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/re-charge-an-air-conditioner-system

If the pressures are okay, then you have a 3 wire pressure sensor so we are not able to jump it and check to find out if that is the issue.

So we need find the sensor in the front right corner of the engine (passenger side). Unplug it and turn the key on. You need check voltage from pin 1 to 3. This is the 5 volts reference and the ground going back to the module. If you have 5 volts then the module is fine.

Then the pressure signal on the module can be monitored with a scan tool where it will convert the voltage to PSI so we can see if the sensor is then reading the same as the gauges.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

As for the fuse, the easiest way to check the complete operation of the electrical side is to remove the relay, turn the key on and jump pin 3 to 5 and see if the compressor clicks.

Then jump 2 to 5 and see if it clicks.

If it clicks then the electrical side is fine and you may have a control issue or relay issue.

Next we need to check the control module. You do this by removing the relay and put your red meter lead on 12 volts, then the black meter lead on pin 1 of the relay. Start the engine and turn the AC on. Does the meter read 12 volts? If it does then the control module is grounding the relay and operating properly. At that point you have a relay issue because the control module is turning the relay on but it is not responding to turn the compressor on.

If the control module is grounding the relay then all the sensors and pressures are correct so if you want to start with this then that is fine.

If not, then we need to monitor the pressure sensor to find out if we have a sensor or module issue that is not grounding the relay.

This is a lot of info. Please let me know if you have questions.

Thanks
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Thursday, September 23rd, 2021 AT 8:40 AM
Tiny
DROCK03
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  • 3 POSTS
Compressor didn’t click when testing pins.
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Thursday, September 23rd, 2021 AT 12:28 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Okay. Then that means we need to go back to the 10 amp fuse that you checked before and find out which fuse that was. 62 or 70?

I don't think it is going to matter because if you don't have power going to it then that means the junction block is the issue.

So you need to have 12 volts on both sides of this fuse so let's check voltage and not continuity and see if we have 12 volts on both sides of the fuse and go from there.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Please see the info below. Thanks
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Thursday, September 23rd, 2021 AT 6:35 PM
Tiny
DROCK03
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I used multimeter to check voltage from circuit of both relay and 10 amp. Both reading 0.02. Hopefully I did it right.
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Friday, September 24th, 2021 AT 6:58 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Okay. Maybe get a picture of how you are testing this because if you are not getting voltage on the fuse then clearly that is the issue which would mean there is an issue fuse box.

However, I just want to make sure you are testing it correct. When you check the fuse are you putting your black meter lead on a good ground then touching the red lead to both little metal tabs on the fuse and getting.02 volts?

If this is what you are doing then that fuse box is not delivering voltage to that fuse.
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Friday, September 24th, 2021 AT 9:19 AM

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