Instrument cluster not working any suggestions?

Tiny
HANNIGANFFC
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 HONDA CIVIC
  • 27,000 MILES
My dashboard display has just went out with the rev counter sticking at 4000rpm, my speedometer has also stuck at 0mph and a few dashboard lights have appeared, any suggestions to what this can be?
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Tuesday, May 1st, 2012 AT 3:51 PM

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Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Most likely a fault with the instrument cluster which is common here is how you can replace it. But first lets check the fuses here is a guide to help with the fuse location below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Check out the diagrams (Below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem. You will need to get a rebuilt unit which is programmed to your car through the VIN number.
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Tuesday, May 1st, 2012 AT 3:58 PM
Tiny
HANNIGANFFC
  • MEMBER
Thanks for the reply, it was the cluster I got a rebuilt unit for 140.00 all set
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Tuesday, May 1st, 2012 AT 4:01 PM
Tiny
AMANDA FULLER
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 149,000 MILES
Hi I have been having a problem with my dash for the past year. It's very unpredictable. My spedometer, gas, temp, and kms gauges will not come on. They will go off and it could be for an hour, could be for a couple days. Sometimes when I start my car or go over a bump or just be driving it will come back on. Please any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi Amanda fuller,

You have a loose connection somewhere and vibrations/bumps is causing it to come on or go off depending on situation. The best time to perform test is when the gauges do not work.

You would have to remove the meter cluster to perform the test.

Start by wiggling wire harness under dash to fuse box. If they start working where you wiggled, check connectors for contamination or loseness in connection.
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AARON TYSINGER
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 HONDA CIVIC
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • MANUAL
  • 142,000 MILES
The car listed above is a previously turbocharged si (ep3). Previous owner told me that after the motor blew with the turbo setup that he put a low mileage (spec-k20) back in it. The problem was at first that the car blew a 10 amp fuse under the dash that was for air/fuel sensor, plus speed sensor, plus something with the fuel system. I figured out if I took it (out) before start up and now the cluster is not working?
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • ADMIN
Hello,

Lets try to remove all spliced in wires and return the wiring harness to stock. Then lets check the fuses and grounds here are two guides to help with the fuse locations and instrument cluster wiring diagrams below so you can see how the system works.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Check out the diagrams (Below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MLPCIVIC
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 HONDA CIVIC
The gauges usually work normally. But every once in a while the speedometer and tachometer will drop to zero, and the odometer will display all 8's. The dash light will go out. It may stay this way for 5 seconds up to several minutes, and then return to normal. We just recently purchased this car, but evidently it has had this problem before. The gauge cluster was replaced in 2007 at 75,000 miles. Also, just before it was traded in, and unknown to us when we bought it, the Honda dealer had replaced the electronic load detector. They have looked at it since, but since it is sporadic, they cannot find anything. Our 17 year old is driving this car and we need to find the problem. The engine performance was not affected. The radio stayed on. I do not know if the ignition switch was checked or not. I did see there was a TSB about erratic gauge displays. And there was a Feb, 2003 Honda service bulletin about how to reset the gauge control module, which I tried. It did not correct the problem. Any ideas? Thanks.
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Problem should not be due to ignition switch as the performance was not affected.

Here are some diagnostics that you can carry out to see if you can get any info.

SELF - DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION

" The gauge assembly has a self -diagnosis function.
" The beeper drive circuit check
" The indicator drive circuit check
" The LCD segments check
" The gauges drive circuit check (Speedometer, Tachometer, Fuel gauge, Coolant temperature gauge)
" The communication line check (the coolant temperature signal line between the gauge and ECM/PCM)

ENTERING THE SELF - DIAGNOSIS FUNCTION
Before doing the self -diagnosis function, check the No. 9 (10A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box and No. 10 (7.5A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.

1. Push and hold the trip/reset button.
2 . Turn the lighting switch ON.
3 . Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
4 . Within 5 sec, turn the lighting switch OFF, then ON and OFF again.
5 . Within 5 sec, release the trip/reset button, then push and release the button four times repeatedly.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_GaugeSelfDiagnostic02CivicFig06_2.jpg



NOTE:

" While in the self-diagnosis mode, the dash lights brightness controller operates normally.
" While in the self-diagnosis mode, the trip/reset button is used to start the beeper drive circuit check and the gauge drive circuit check.
" If the vehicle speed exceeds 1.2 mph (2 km/h) or the ignition switch is turned OFF, the self-diagnosis mode ends.

THE BEEPER DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self -diagnosis mode, the beeper sounds five times.

THE INDICATOR DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self -diagnosis mode, the following indicators blink. Seat belt indicator, Door/trunk indicator, Brake system light, Low fuel indicator, Maintenance required indicator (USA), Washer fluid level indicator light (Canada), Oil pressure light and, A/T gear position indicator (except P, R, N).

THE LCD SEGMENT CHECK
When entering the self -diagnosis mode, the odo/trip segment blinks five times.

THE GAUGE DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self -diagnosis mode, the speedometer and the tachometer, the fuel gauge, and the coolant temperature gauge needles sweep from the minimum position to maximum position, then return to the minimum position.

NOTE: After the beeper stops sounding and the gauge needles return to the minimum position, pushing the trip/reset button starts the beeper
drive circuit check (one beep), and the gauge drive circuit check again. The check cannot be started until the needles return to the minimum position. If the gauge needles fail to sweep, replace the gauge assembly.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_GaugeSelfDiagnostic02CivicFig06_1.jpg



THE COMMUNICATION LINE CHECK
In the self -diagnosis mode, after the odo/trip LCD segments check, the self -diagnosis starts the communication line check.

If all segments come on, the communication line is OK.

If the word "Error" is indicated, there is a malfunction in the communication line between the gauge assembly, the multiplex control unit, and the ECM/PCM.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_GaugeSelfDiagnostic02CivicFig07_1.jpg



ENDING THE SELF - DIAGNOSIS FUNCTION
Turn the ignition switch OFF.

NOTE: If the vehicle speed exceeds 1.2 mph (2 km/h), the self-diagnosis function ends.

If any of the checks do not function as specified, replace the gauge assembly.

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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MLPCIVIC
  • MEMBER
I ran the diagnostic and as far as I can tell, everything passed. The needles on all of the gauges did go from minimum to maximum and back to minimum. I did check the 2 fuses first. They looked OK too. The odometer did not show the word "error".

When I ran the diagnostic, the gauges had been working correctly the last time it was driven. Maybe we need to run the diagnostic immediately after the gauges have not been working?

This is the second gauge cluster to have these problems. Would that indicate that it's something else?

Thanks for the help.
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
The diagnostics indicates there are no fault within the system and it would be good to perform the test immediately after the problem occurred.

There is a possibility power supply is interrupted causing the problem and that would be a headache to diagnose.

I would not rule out the possibility iof a faulty meter cluster as it could be due so some technical fault of the assembled units and tends to fail intermittently.
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LEPEPE83
  • MEMBER
In the last 2 months, my 2002 Civic has been having the same dashbord light issues. They go out intermitently but the engine, heater, radio, headlights, tail lights, cruise and emergency blinkers all work fine while the gauges are all dead.

I have taken it to the Honda dealer for diagnosis and the 70,000 mile service, and they found nothing. All systems checked clear.

If a solution is found, please post! I drive early in the morning before sunrise and it freaks me out when the lights go out even though the car continues to run!
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
VIVICHO
  • MEMBER
Hi I had the same problem. After a year of checking almost all the electric system I found the issue. At the beginning I was thinking that the fuel meter sensor ground was the issue but at the end it was not.
Here is what I found:
The small piece of rubber that activates the cruise control switch in the clutch pedal was not there, so the circuit was always opened. It was leaking current and CPU on the gauge cluster was getting incorrect voltage levels from the MCU or fuse box. The CC switch is normally closed so it is always consuming current so when you put the key on ignition mode it absorbs current and provide what is exactly needed for the gauge cluster.

Hope it helps.
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NATHAN.D.BALK
  • MEMBER
Vivicho,
Where exactly is the small rubber piece that activates the cruise control switch. Is it up on the clutch where it enters into the car? Once I find that location, can I just place a new rubber piece there. Can I buy that piece at a hardware store? I guess I am just asking for some more details on how to fix the problem from your previous response on July 18th.

Hi I had the same problem. After a year of checking almost all the electric system I found the issue. At the beginning I was thinking that the fuel meter sensor ground was the issue but at the end it was not.
Here is what I found:
The small piece of rubber that activates the cruise control switch in the clutch pedal was not there, so the circuit was always opened. It was leaking current and CPU on the gauge cluster was getting incorrect voltage levels from the MCU or fuse box. The CC switch is normally closed so it is always consuming current so when you put the key on ignition mode it absorbs current and provide what is exactly needed for the gauge cluster.

Thanks
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WEEZE
  • MEMBER
Thanks for this post! I have a 1999 Civic EX with Auto trans that my 19 yo daughter drives to college. She called when heading back after Christmas and said that while driving she turned on the headlights and that all of the gauges went to zero then came back on after about 2 seconds. Said her radio continued to play and the car did not stop or die (thank goodness!) I had to replace the fuel gauge when we bought the car almost 4 yrs ago. This has just started happening so I want to jump on this and get it fixed asap! Unfortunately she is 8hrs away at college so I wont be able to do the test on the gauges. I will keep you all posted as to the test outcome. If you have any other suggestions. Thanks again!
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
UMER
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
Hi, I have honda civic 2002 vtec, yesterday its speedometer, tach meter, temp gauge and fuel gauge stoped working, i've checked all fuses underdash and under the hood they are ok. Then I took out the meter assembly for checking the conectors they seems fine, but accidently ive shorted some connections and heard relaly clicking sound, and then I lost my stereo, cabin light and I think central locking too, again checked all fuses they all are fine including stereo fuses, can u please help me. Thank you.
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Seems you have a fault with the Multiplex Control Unit. It is plugged into the underdash relay box. Check for bad ground circuit connections at the MCU.

The MCU is related to the gauges, stereo, cabin lights and power door locks.
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DZVUKEE
  • MEMBER
My Honda CRV RD5 its problem is on speedometer its not working but everything at the cluster is normal and it reads ABS is not disappear at the cluster
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
UMER
  • MEMBER
Can you plz send me the location and picture of the mcu of civic and the location of ground wire there are lots of ground wires in the car. The problem was started after I washed my car at a service station. Thanking you.
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
It is built into the underdash fuse relay box.

TROUBLESHOOTING
MODE 1 TEST
1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover.

2. Check the No. 9 (10A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/ relay box and the No. 10 (7.5A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.

Are the fuses OK?
YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Find and repair the cause of the blown fuse.

3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

If the driver's seatbelt is unbuckled, the seatbelt reminder will chime 6 times.

4. Set the ceiling light to the center position and close all the doors.

5. Connect the special tool (A) to the multiplex inspection connector (B).

6. After about 5 seconds the spotlight and ceiling light should come on for 2 seconds, go out, then blink on for 0.2 second to show the system is now in Mode 1.

Did the spotlight and ceiling light indicate Mode 1?

YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Go to step 7.

7. Check for continuity between terminal 4 of the under-dash fuse/relay box connector J and body ground.

Is there continuity?
YES - Replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.
NO - Repair the open in the wire. If the wire is OK, repair G301.

8. If the DTCs are present, the spotlight and ceiling light will blink to indicate the DTC(s). If more than one DTC is present, the DTCs will be displayed in ascending order. If there are no DTCs the spotlight and ceiling light will not blink again after the Mode 1 indication.

Are there any DTCs?
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Go to the Mode 2 test.

9. Troubleshoot the DTC(s) in the order indicated using the following charts.
If a faulty control unit is suspected, substitute it with a known-good part and recheck for DTCs.

If the DTC(s) is still present, go to the next step instead for the DTC.
If the DTC(s) is no longer present, replace the original part.

MODE 2 TEST
1. From Mode 1, disconnect the special tool from the multiplex inspection connector for 5 to 10 seconds, and then reconnect it.

2. The spotlight and ceiling light should come on for 2 seconds, go out, then blink twice, 0.2 seconds each time. The system is now in Mode 2.

3. Operate the switches listed below. If the circuit is OK, the spotlight and ceiling lights will blink once. If the circuit is faulty, the lights will not blink.

Tip: Operate the switches most closely related to the problem you are diagnosing is a quick way of testing the circuits integrity.

4. If all inputs were confirmed, or multiple circuits failed at the same time in Mode 2, go to the multiplex sleep mode test. If a single switch fails in Mode 2, troubleshoot its circuit.

MULTIPLEX SLEEP MODE TEST

1. Connect the positive lead of a voltmeter to terminal 10 of the under-dash fuse/relay box connector E (YEL) or K (WHT/GRN) and the negative lead to body ground.

2. Connect ammeter between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post.

3. Remove the special tool from the multiplex inspection connector.

4. Close the doors, the hatch, turn the headlights off, turn off the ignition switch and remove the key.

5. Within 1 minute the voltage on the communication wire (E10 or K10) should change from approx 4 - 10 V to battery voltage and the amperage at the negative battery terminal should drop from approx. 70-80 mA to less than 10 mA.

6. Record your findings and go to the Multiplex Wake-up Test.

MULTIPLEX WAKE-UP TEST

1. From the sleep mode, Wake-up the multiplex system by performing one of the following operations:

Fig. 9: Multiplex Wake-up Test

2. As the system shifts to its active (wake-up) mode, communication wire voltage will return to 4-10 V and the battery terminal current will return to 70-80 mA.

3. If the system does not go into sleep mode or wake-up properly, perform the Multiplex Control Unit Input Test.

NOTE:
If multiplex circuits fail to respond in the Mode 2 tests and/or the multiplex circuit fails to go into sleep mode or wake-up, it may mean that a control unit failed without triggering a DTC in Mode 1. Perform the Multiplex Control Unit Input Test. If the input test confirms that all the inputs are working properly, substitute a known-good multiplex control unit, gauge assembly or ECM one at a time. If after swapping one of the above components the system works properly, replace the original component, it is faulty.
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PETER TAYLOR
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 170,000 MILES
I have been having problems with my instrument cluster and dash lights going out intermittently. It started to happen only occasionally and now more often than not my cluster does not work. When it goes out all of the gauges go out as well as the odometer and the radio and A/C illumination. The radio and A/C (and everything else) still works. Sometimes when it works the odometer reads all "8's". The odometer reading seems to continue to keep track of mileage whether the cluster is on or not. Also, the only gauge that does not come back on as accurate is the fuel gauge. It tends to read close to full all the time, though sometimes when the cluster works it moves from full to almost empty in the span of ten miles. I have changed the alternator and the negative battery cable assembly with no improvement.
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 1:34 PM (Merged)

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