Engine running rough?

Tiny
JOECANTRELL
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 FORD TAURUS
  • 95,863 MILES
2007 ford taurus sel 3.0 v6. Starts but chuggs and dies every now and then. I replace vacuum line. Three spark plugs only had enough money to spare for three. Replace the idle control valve. The fuel filter is only 3 weeks old. That is when my problem started after I replace fuel filter it is on the correct way already checked. Issues are it chugs, sometimes when I gas it the rpms take a long time to get up and it seem like its being flooded, thensome time the cars air conditioning will stop blowing could air then start right back up, it idles hard, after replacing the idle control valve the car ran fine for a day then started up agian it is better then before. The pump works fine checked it out by turning key while filter was off. I am thinking it might be the mass air flow sencor or the egr valve. Battery is about to year old. I have checked all fluid they were clean and filled to proper amount.
Wednesday, August 22nd, 2012 AT 1:29 PM

26 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,796 POSTS
Are there any codes??? re check for vacuum leaks. we need the exact fuel pressure as well. pump could be running but not enough pressure. here are guides to help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

Please run down these guides and report back.Roy
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Wednesday, August 22nd, 2012 AT 1:36 PM
Tiny
JOECANTRELL
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I had pressure checked at advance autos the said it was with in regulation according to chilton book. The code got wiped when I changed the idle control valve so I have to driv it or let it run more until the codes can regesture. Then I will take it up to advance auto parts and rent there code reader since im in sc. And my code reader II is in texas at my other house. Im in the military so I counldnt bring all my tools.
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Wednesday, August 22nd, 2012 AT 3:02 PM
Tiny
JOECANTRELL
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
The spark plugs are made for that year and model. Too
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Wednesday, August 22nd, 2012 AT 3:04 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,796 POSTS
Get back to us with the codes
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Wednesday, August 22nd, 2012 AT 3:34 PM
Tiny
JOECANTRELL
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Will do if I cant figure it out
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Wednesday, August 22nd, 2012 AT 4:13 PM
Tiny
JOECANTRELL
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
But I do have another question concerning a 1965 ford f100 with 352 and a 4 speed granny shift. When replacing the single reservor master cylinder with a dual master cylinder what size fitting and tube for the breaks should I use. I also would like your recamendation on what type of break dividers I should use. This truck is about 90% restored.
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Wednesday, August 22nd, 2012 AT 4:17 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,796 POSTS
De[ends on the master cylinder. Check with the parts store on the fitting sizes. You will need a proportioning valve as well.

As far as the taurus, if you cannot figure it out, a shop is your next step for help

Roy
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Thursday, August 23rd, 2012 AT 9:59 AM
Tiny
DCLARKIE35
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2006 FORD TAURUS
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 95,000 MILES
I have an 06 taurus with about 95,000 miles. The car will run rough in idle and will jerk/ sputter some time. Mostly at idle and around 45mph. At idle it sounds like it is not running on all cylinders and exhaust smells like fuel a little (running lean). It backfires some times. It also wont start right away, takes a few cranks and starts slow. I have replaced the plugs, wires, coil, cam sensor, idle pully, fuel pump, and belt, but still runs rough. Iv done some test iv read online and the engine will run the same when I unplug the cam sensor connector. It also will run the same if I unplug the #4 cyl coil wire. Please help
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 1:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
If unplugging #4 wire doesn't effect anything, that cylinder isn't firing and you need to find out why. Most of the time it's a bad coil and spark plugs. You should have the computer scanned to reveal any stored trouble codes.
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 1:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SAVANNHA13
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2005 FORD TAURUS
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 188,541 MILES
The ABS brake and service light are on and it runs really rough and it eats gas up.
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 1:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,108 POSTS
Hi:

If the engine light stays on when the engine is running, you need to have the computer scanned to retrieve diagnostic trouble codes. Most parts stores will do it for free or lend / rent you a scanner.

Here is a quick video showing how it's done:

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

If you could, have that done and let me know what codes are found. Multiple things can be causing what you described, so without the codes, it becomes a guessing game.

Take care and I'll watch for your reply.

Joe
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 1:10 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BOBECK
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 70,000 MILES
All of a sudden my engine started running real rough. I tried to drive the car around the block but it did not want to go.

I turned the car off and waited a few minutes before I tried to turn it on. When I went to turn it on you normally heat the fuel pump but this time I heard a loud noise from the back of the car where the fuel pump is in the gas tank.

Could my fuel pump be bad?
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 1:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Do you have check engine light coming on get the codes will help trouble shouting the issue as for the sound coming from the rear it may be the fuel pump but I would have a pressure check done if check engine on get the codes. Here is a guide to help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 1:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
REYNOLDS810
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
  • 2002 FORD TAURUS
I was at a stop light and the car stalled and almost died it started popping and not making any power it would not go any faster than 20 mph. I popped the hood and there is a loud ticking noise comeing from the
(if standing in front of car) left rear top side the ckeck engine light is on the codes are PO401 EGR flow low, I thin it was p1145 O2 bank 1 low voltage and cylinder 1 missfire. If I go by the tail pipe it feels as if it sucks in occasionaly. It almost seems as if it is out of time but this has a chain and not a belt they will usually break any ideas on where to start

year is 2002
make ford taurus
engine 3.0 vin code is 2 (flex fuel)
automatic
116000 miles
recently changed spark plugs used motercraft 2000 miles ago
as soon as I pulled the codes I bought a motercraft o2 sensor and put it in
the plug wires were also replaced about 2000 miles ago
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 1:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,123 POSTS
I'll give you my two cents, but there are a couple of excellent Retarded. Er retired ford techs on the site that may jump in.

I would check the egr passageways for restrictions, clean them out and the egr valve while it's off and see how it goes. However I have seen the DPFE sensor be a common problem with this code as well.
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 1:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
REYNOLDS810
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Yes I replaced the dpfe on my explorer sport but it was still running fine when it went bad I didnt know if that would almost kill the engin the thing barely runs now but the are cheap enough I will buy one tomorrow and see what happens
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 1:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
REYNOLDS810
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Changed dpfe and egr no change pulled out front and rear o2 sensor started car and ran fine idled at 1000 not bouncing around put them back in and idle went 300 to 600 and was not steady so I ordered a cat conv will put it on this afternoon and see if that is the prob wife says for the last month when she got on the gas it would go till about 4000rpm then the car would buck and cut out so ill see if this fixes it
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 1:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KAT205US
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 156,984 MILES
When I first start the car it idles rough and runs a little rough for a few minutes. It also bucks when I accelerate, but only sometimes. When I turn the air conditioner on it also runs rough for a few minutes. It never stalls but it feels like it might.
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 1:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
First thing is to make sure the plugs and wires are Good, then check the ECT at the drvers side of the engine, where the radiator and heater hose go into the engine.
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 1:11 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NWADSUE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2002 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 177,777 MILES
Motor runs fine in Park and neutral. As soon as I put it in gear it bogs down and will barely move. I can eventually get it up to speed but it uses excess amounts of fuel and runs like it has no power at all. I had a catalytic converter replaced and a few sensors but it almost seems like there is a vacuum leak or something when it is in gear. Could the EGR valve be causing this? Or what else should I be looking at?
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 1:12 PM (Merged)

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