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Is it okay to drive this vehicle without a rear driveshaft?

Tiny
7474
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 CHEVROLET EQUINOX
  • 3.4L
  • 6 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 141,000 MILES
The vehicle listed above is a LT AWD.

Mid-shaft U-joint of rear driveshaft broke.

Removed rear driveshaft.

Is it okay to drive without a rear driveshaft?
Friday, January 20th, 2023 AT 4:47 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 12,950 POSTS
Yes, but you will likely set powertrain codes and due to the rear drive missing it would be easier to get stuck in snow or loose materials. That vehicle is basically a front wheel, drive that they bolted a power take off unit onto. That part is what transfers power to the rear and the driveshaft connects onto through the CV joint. If you removed, it by unbolting the carrier bearing and the CV joint up front and the flange at the rear it should be OK to drive. The front drive cup is also part of the pinion bearing and is bolted in place, so it won't try to fall out and the rear mounting for the yoke is the same. You will likely see warning lights for the AWD and traction control and possibly the ABS as well. Never tried driving one with the shaft out but there is a speed sensor in the rear differential that reads the axle speed to determine its condition you might want to pull the AWD fuse 41 in the under-hood fuse panel to disable the rear clutches and avert any other issues. Then repair the shaft and reinstall it if it didn't damage the ears when the joint failed. Or just look on rock auto and order a replacement for far less than the dealer will charge. I've used the Standard Gear part# ZDS100594 a couple times and it fit and functions just as good as the factory part at a quarter of the cost.
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Friday, January 20th, 2023 AT 5:14 PM
Tiny
7474
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Thank you for the reply.
Unfortunately, the ears were damaged.
To me, the car is no longer worth the $600.00 for the standard gear driveshaft. Not even worth $350.00 for one from 1aauto.
I would like to drive without the driveshaft and wanted to make sure that it was safe.
Thank you for the advice regarding the AWD fuse.
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Friday, January 20th, 2023 AT 5:21 PM
Tiny
7474
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  • 6 POSTS
Just took the car out for a 30-minute drive. No codes with and without AWD fuse.

Interestingly, vehicle seems to accelerate more smoothly and quickly.
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Friday, January 20th, 2023 AT 7:24 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 12,950 POSTS
It won't set any codes until it tries to activate the rear gearing. The clutches will try to engage, and the yoke will not spin up and then it will set a code. I would still keep the fuse out, that might be enough to stop it from trying but I've never actually tried it. Did you look at Rock Auto? Or there is always the "you pull it yard" for a used one if you want to bother with it. The better response is likely due to the failing U-Joint causing drag on the system, now it's gone so it can spin the transmission easier.
Either way, good luck with it. If you do set a code, you could post it when you get a chance.
Thank you for using 2CarPros.
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Friday, January 20th, 2023 AT 9:48 PM
Tiny
7474
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Thanks for the reply.

Knock on wood, no codes after my drive to work for 25’ with highway speeds.

No codes yesterday in fresh snow trying to get the wheels to spin.

I spent hours with PB blaster, a hammer, and an air hammer/chisel trying to remove the section from the engine attachment. No luck. 15 years of NE Ohio winters have rust welded it on. The back half was no problem.

At that point I was planning to just scrap the vehicle. So, I broke the driveshaft out of the engine attachment. See picture.

This is where I stand now. Going to attempt a DIY penetrant of 50/50 ATF and acetone. Supposedly, it has miraculous penetrating properties. We shall see later this week.

As I stated earlier, I have noticed the Equinox has never accelerated more smoothly now without the rear wheels involved.

I also removed the AWD fuse and I turn traction control off when I drive.

My thought is the Equinox is on its last leg for me.

I am planning to hold on to it until I need to replace the tires. Just replaced them a year ago but only drive it about 10k miles a year, only for work.

In my opinion vehicle is not worth even the $300.00 for a new driveshaft.

So, if I can get the remaining driveshaft out this weekend, I may explore replacing it. But it’s driving the best it has in years so I may just leave well enough alone.

Thanks again for your assistance.
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Monday, January 23rd, 2023 AT 9:33 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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Clean the grease out of it and go around the outside a few times with a torch, even a MAPP or propane torch should get it hot enough that the rust breaks free. Then a few taps and the cap would be out. Your call on the rest. I know what salt does as I'm one state northeast of you.
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Monday, January 23rd, 2023 AT 10:34 AM
Tiny
7474
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
4 1/2 months later and all is going well. No warning lights. AWD fuse is removed.

Gas mileage has improved by 1.5 mpg.

However, have a transfer case leak. Do I need to keep refilling or can I just let it leak dry?

Thanks again for your help.
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Sunday, May 28th, 2023 AT 5:38 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Need to keep it lubed or it could lock up and grenade and take out the transmission.
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Monday, May 29th, 2023 AT 8:55 AM
Tiny
7474
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  • 6 POSTS
Thanks for the reply. Figured it wasn't as simple as I had read from others. Wishful thinking.

Any cheaper alternatives to VersaTrak for transfer case? I anticipate having to refill frequently. I have read about Royal Purple Synchromax with mixed reviews, but that was mostly for rear diff. Thinking at the rate I will be going through, it won't matter, so long as something is in there.

Thanks again for your help.
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Tuesday, May 30th, 2023 AT 5:38 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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Where is the leak? It might be cheaper to figure out a way to stop it than to keep filling it up. I "repaired" an old Subaru Justy by removing the entire rear drivetrain when the 5 U-joints went bad and took out the rear diff just for spite. The front yoke was a slip yoke that would leak if left out so I found a tin can that would barely fit over the outer tail shaft, coated the inside with silicone, added a muffler clamp and the owner drove it for 4 more years that way. Never leaked a drop. Perhaps something similar, or go to the leaky area, clean it really well with wipes and brake cleaner and apply some JB weld in a large smear to retain the oil?
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Tuesday, May 30th, 2023 AT 10:51 AM

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