05 Jaguar x type

Tiny
JOETECHPRO
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Hey prryperrys@aol. Com,

You will need to try and locate the source of the noise. If something is humming then narrow down the location with your ear then by touching each component in the area try and locate source of the vibration. A stethoscope would be handy in this process but you should be able to feel whatever is vibrating by hand. If you find an electrical component buzzing, disconnect it and see if the noise stops.

Let me know what you find.

Regards, Joe
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Saturday, July 27th, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PRRYPERRYS
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Hey my friend, I just went out and pin pointed the noise it is not coming from the engine it's coming from the inside the car driver side. Sounds like it somewhere in back of the steering wheel somewhere around there. I held my ear to the brake booster and I cannot hear it only when sitting in the car driver side.
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Saturday, July 27th, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
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Hey prryperrys@aol. Com,

Please can you look up under the dash behind the steering wheel and see if you can locate the thing that is buzzing/humming?

Like I said if you should be able to feel it.

Then unplug what ever it is to make sure, if you are not sure what it is send me a picture and i'll do my best to identify it.

Have you tried the drive cycle I sent you before for your p1000 code?

Regards, Joe
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Saturday, July 27th, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PRRYPERRYS
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Hey Joe, thank you. I'm going to do the drive cycle today after work. I'll also look and feel under the dashboard to see if I could touch what's buzzing. I'll get back to you later thank you. Kenny
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Saturday, July 27th, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PRRYPERRYS
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Hey Joe, hope all is well my friend. I just went for the drive to clear the p1000 it did not work, but you know what I noticed every time I hit the brake the car will cut off so I think you right it got something to do with the brake booster. But the hose on the brake booster is good. Maybe it's the brake booster? I don't know I need your help. I tried to lay underneath the steering wheel to figure out what the whining noise was. It seems like it's in the dashboard or maybe the master cylinder. I don't know, I couldn't pinpoint it definitely know what's on the driver side. I did notice the faster I drove the car and soon as I touch the brake it cut off had to put it in neutral to turn it back on I did that about eight times speed it up touch the brake and the car cut off.
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Saturday, July 27th, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PRRYPERRYS
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Good morning Joe hope all is well. Question, how would I know if the brake booster, brake cylinder is gone? That maybe where the noise coming from. I'm starting to think it's the brake booster or brake cylinder because every time I put my foot on the brake it cuts off and it doesn't matter the speed I'm going now before it was only when I slowed down now I could be going 40 or 50 touch to break car cuts off it's getting worse. Thank you, Kenny
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Saturday, July 27th, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
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Hey PRRYPERRYS@AOL. COM

So to test the brake booster you will need a hand held vacuum pump with a gauge, like a Mityvac or similar.

Have you got access to one of these?

It sounds like you may have an internal vacuum leak in the brake booster.

When you move the diaphragm inside by pressing the brake pedal if you have a leak it will cause a sudden surge of unmetered air into the intake which will stall the engine.

Regards, Joe
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Saturday, July 27th, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
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Hey PRRYPERRYS@AOL. COM,

A quick test for this is if you remove the vacuum hose from the booster and plug it.

Then start the engine and operate the brake pedal.

Does the engine stall?

Reattach and retest.

If it only stalls with the booster connected you have isolated the problem to the booster system.

There is a check valve in the line for the booster, you also want to ensure this only flows one way. It should only open when vacuum is applied from the engine side. The check valve is a cheap part, if suspect replace it and retest.

Hope this helps.

Regards, Joe
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Saturday, July 27th, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PRRYPERRYS
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Thank you my friend I'm going to try this tomorrow. I'm actually off so that's great that's the only problem I have with that vehicle now it keep cutting off and p1000 will not go out that may be part of the reason there are no lights in the dashboard. That's great. I will keep you informed.
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Saturday, July 27th, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
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Thank you very much I appreciate you guys. I tell everyone about you all the time.
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Saturday, July 27th, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
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Hey prryperrys@aol. Com,

We appreciate you spreading the word, we are here to help.

Best of luck with the testing. Sounds like you are getting somewhere with this now.

Regards, Joe
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Saturday, July 27th, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PRRYPERRYS
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Hey Joe, hope all is well. Thank you guys I did get my sticker finally. I have one problem still that we talked about before; whenever the car is completely warmed up and I come to a stop it shuts off. No code lights on. And it pass inspection. It just shuts off after driving about twenty minutes and when I stop or slow way down. And it feels like the brake pedal push back sometime so I'm wondering is it the brake booster on it way out. If I take my foot off the gas and let it slowly stops without pushing the brake sometime it don't shut off and sometimes it does. I'm really confused. Please help. Thank you
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Saturday, July 27th, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
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If I can jump in here. it seems like the throttle bore needs to be serviced. Here is a guide to help walk you through the service:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Saturday, July 27th, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PRRYPERRYS
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Hey Ken oh, that's what I was thinking it was too I already did that and that did not work I end up ordering a new throttle body and put it on and it still cuts off. Only when the car is warm after driving about 25 minutes it starts to cut off. And I also have another problem the AC has been charged but it only blows hot air. But back to the cutting off to you think it might be the EGR valve or something else I just can't figure it out Ken.
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Saturday, July 27th, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
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If there are no codes I would try swapping out the PCM. Let me know what happens.
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Saturday, July 27th, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
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Okay, thank you.
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Saturday, July 27th, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PRRYPERRYS
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Hey guys update remember I said p1000 would not go out auto shops kept telling me I had not completed the drive cycle which I had come to find out it was a problem with the Ford part and a Jaguar part the reason P1000 would not clear. The registry gave me a sticker and told me the next time I get a sticker it should clear. Thank you all set with sticker.
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Saturday, July 27th, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
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Now I have another problem I had the air conditioner charged and it still only blows warm to cool air never cold doesn't matter if I'm driving or sitting still it doesn't get cold
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Saturday, July 27th, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
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Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Please post your new question here, you must be logged in.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Cheers, Ken
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Saturday, July 27th, 2019 AT 12:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PRRYPERRYS
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Hey guys update, the reason car kept shutting off and stalling out when applying breaks or at idle it was the mass air flow sensor. I changed it once I guess the one I put on was defective and I end up changing it again car runs nice. The reason the p1000 will not go away it was a manufacturer defect between a jaguar apart and a Ford part registry gave me a sticker and said I should not have to go to that problem again. I had no engine lights on thank you guys you guys are awesome. Kenny
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Saturday, August 17th, 2019 AT 11:09 PM

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