Transmission wont engage

Tiny
FURNITURE
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CADILLAC SRX
  • 0.6L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 85,000 MILES
Car wont go into drive or reverse and I don't know where to put the transmission fluid Im stuck on the freeway this is crazy
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Thursday, October 2nd, 2014 AT 7:59 PM

15 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
This sounds like the transmission gear range sensor has gone out so the transmission does no know what gear you are in.

If you have a small leak, the vehicle won't stop moving completely right away You may have something else wrong.

Here are the diagrams to show you how to check the fluid level.

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please run this test and get back to us.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+8
Thursday, October 2nd, 2014 AT 8:21 PM
Tiny
FURNITURE
  • MEMBER
I didnt say it was leaking at all I was just wondering if it just wont go forward or reverse and I wanted to put the fliud Where do I put it I dont c a dip stik
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+4
Thursday, October 2nd, 2014 AT 8:36 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
These cars do not have a dipstick there is a plug on the side of the transmission check out the diagrams above. Also can you check to see if you have reverse lights? If not this makes me think the range sensor here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when doing the job.

Check out the diagrams (Below).
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+5
Thursday, October 2nd, 2014 AT 10:19 PM
Tiny
IAN WELCH
  • MEMBER
This is a old topic. I am dealing with something similar.

One particular solenoid controls fluid pressure. If it malfunctions, the car won't go into drive or out of neutral.

Also, the shift linkage could be causing the issue. Regardless, this thread is from 2014 so I would love to hear what the problem was
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+2
Thursday, June 8th, 2017 AT 3:01 PM
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Hello,

I believe it was a shift solenoid that was shorted out. Here is a transmission wiring diagram (below) so you can do some testing to find out if this can be your problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Please run this test and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Cheers, Ken

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Monday, June 12th, 2017 AT 1:42 PM
Tiny
PD123
  • MEMBER
This is an old topic thats been replied to a little more recently, and I was wondering if anyone had some ideas. I ran into the same issue as the OP; I was driving on the highway at 70mph, when all of a sudden the SRX felt like it had no acceleration. I was able to shift over a couple lanes and get into the breakdown lane, and since the stretch of highway was on a decline, I was able to immediately exit off the highway, pull over, and get a tow. I was driving a 2009 SRX, and I immediately noticed reddish fluid on the ground, in the area between the front drivers side tire and the front bumper. I had the vehicle towed to a property I own, and I left it there a couple weeks. The car will not move while in drive or reverse. I'm trying to figure out the issue now to get it repaired. I looked at the vehicle today, and there's fluid on the ground that looked like it was recent, not from before. I thought that it might be a line or a hose from the transmission to the radiator, but I'm not sure. I've searched around online and haven't figured out a common issue that it could be. Anyone have an idea? Thanks.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, January 19th, 2018 AT 4:50 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
You're going to have to crawl underneath and look for the source of the leak, but given the location of the puddle, I suspect the fix is going to be relatively minor. You're in the area where they normally run the steel lines to the transmission cooler. A lot of manufacturers have been ending those lines with short pieces of rubber hose, and quick-connect fittings that snap together quickly on the assembly line. That type of fitting has a rubber o-ring inside it that often shrinks and leaks, especially in cold weather. With some of those, the manufacturer had in mind that you must buy the entire line, all the way back to the transmission, to get the fitting. Some have repair kits that include just the rubber section and fitting. Use an air cut-off tool to cut the crimped band at the junction of the rubber and steel lines, then slide the rubber hose off. Slide the new hose onto the barbed end of the steel line, then hold it on with a regular hose clamp.

With some designs you can completely remove the rubber section of hose like I described, then you'll find both the end of the steel line and the fitting on the cooler have a barb. Slide on a new piece of hose rated for petroleum products and install a hose clamp at each end. Those clamps should not be right over the barbs as that can cause them to cut into the hose from the inside over time. Instead, place the clamp closer to the end of the rubber hose. The barb will seal to the hose, against fluid loss, and the clamp will run into the area of the barb to stop the hose from sliding off from the fluid pressure.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+2
Friday, January 19th, 2018 AT 5:26 PM
Tiny
PD123
  • MEMBER
CARADIODOC - thank you very much!

Just to update regarding my last post, my issue was caused do to a splice on the rubber hose end of the trans cooling line. I brought the vehicle into my shop, and had the damaged part of the rubber hose cut out, and replaced with a new piece of hose. After refilling the six quarts of fluid that was lost, the vehicle is up and running.

Thank you again to CARADIODOC for your quick reply and excellent insight!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, January 23rd, 2018 AT 11:40 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Yeah, I'm a genius. Well, at least if you think that, I'm not going to stand in your way!

Happy to hear you solved it.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, January 23rd, 2018 AT 1:43 PM
Tiny
PD123
  • MEMBER
Well, since getting the trans cooling line repaired a couple weeks ago, the vehicle once again acted up a few days ago; would not engage in drive or reverse, even in low gear. I had the same mechanic who repaired the transmission line look at it, and he's saying the transmission is completely gone. The car has slightly over 100k miles - is this common for first generation SRX's? Anything else it may be before I decide whether to replace the transmission?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, February 5th, 2018 AT 5:00 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
I'd get a second opinion from a transmission specialty shop. Anything you can present to them, they've run into it before. Of particular interest, automatic transmissions can be broken into two systems. There's the multiple clutch packs that transmit engine power to the wheels, and a system of valves and actuators that control those clutch packs. One clutch pack always is the first one to start slipping, and that only affects the gears that use that clutch. The vehicle will still move but you'll observe symptoms such as slipping. That's when a total rebuild is in order.

When the control system has a problem, multiple clutch packs won't be engaged, so the car may not move. The specialist can use a scanner to command the computer to turn the solenoids on and off that control those valves, to see what isn't working. The cause could be as simple a corroded connector terminal.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, February 5th, 2018 AT 6:24 PM
Tiny
PD123
  • MEMBER
Just to update this post, I have an appointment in a few days to bring the vehicle ('09 Cadillac SRX) into a transmission specialty shop. I scanned the vehicle for error codes, and the following are coming up (some of the codes were previous error codes that were not cleared):

The transmission fluid is fine, as it was refilled after I had the section of the tarns cooling line replaced a few weeks ago. Not sure if anybody has any ideas:

ENGINE CODES:
P013C (HO2S Slow Response Rich To Lean Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0300 (Engine Misfire Detected)
P0303 (Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected)
P0660 (Intake Manifold Tuning (IMT) Valve Solenoid Control Circuit)
P0562 (System Voltage Low)

TRANSMISSION CODES:
P0523 (Undocumented Code)
P0660 (Intake Manifold Tuning (IMT) Valve Solenoid Control Circuit)
P0562 (System Voltage Low)
P0897 (Transmission Fluid Life )

ANTILOCK BRAKE CODES:
C0050 (Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit Fault Erratic)
C0267 (Low Brake Fluid Indicated)
C0561 (System Disabled Information Stored Invalid Serial Data Received)
C0242 (PMC Indicated Traction Control System Malfunction)

AIRBAG CODES:
B0021 (Right Front Deployment Loop Resistance Above Threshold)
B0081 (Passenger Preference System 1 Erratic)
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, February 16th, 2018 AT 12:49 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
P0562 (System Voltage Low) is the code I'd be most concerned about. Transmissions is not one of my specialty areas, but electrical is. GM has a lot of charging system problems which will cause low system voltage when the vehicle has to run on just the battery, but there should be similar fault codes in other computers for the other systems. In particular, anti-lock brakes and air bag systems need a good, strong system voltage to be able to do their things. Those would be the first computers to detect low system voltage and set a fault code. Since they have not, I think we can rule out a charging system problem.

That leaves just the Transmission Computer that is seeing low voltage. Typical suspects would be corroded, arced, or pitted contacts in the transmission relay, (when one is used), or the computer is not developing the right voltage to send to one of its circuits. I have a strong suspicion this is going to be an electrical problem, and not a mechanical problem within the transmission.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, February 16th, 2018 AT 5:47 PM
Tiny
JOEYCTS07
  • MEMBER
Hey at Caradiodoc, I recently was driving my Cadillac CTS 07 at approximately 80 mph for 4 hrs when I was near my home it suddenly stopped accelerating. I was able to pullover on the side of the road. I found this post and it was the same issue. So I checked my reverse lights and there were none. I got the new sensor for $88.00 and installed it. BAM! Back on the road thanks for the post.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, March 17th, 2018 AT 10:03 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help

Cheers!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, March 17th, 2018 AT 10:20 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Recommended Guides