Transmission wont engage

Tiny
FURNITURE
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CADILLAC SRX
  • 0.6L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 85,000 MILES
Car wont go into drive or reverse and I don't know where to put the transmission fluid Im stuck on the ninety five this is crazy
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Thursday, October 2nd, 2014 AT 7:59 PM

15 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
If you lost that much transmission fluid that quickly, you have a major leak or something is broken from being hit, and all the fluid in the world won't get you going. If you have a small leak, the vehicle won't stop moving completely right away. You have something else wrong. Regardless, it's doubtful you're going to solve anything by adding transmission fluid. If there is no leak, the transmission can't be low on fluid, so adding will only cause it to become aerated and will potentially do damage to the clutch plates from slippage.
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Thursday, October 2nd, 2014 AT 8:21 PM
Tiny
FURNITURE
  • MEMBER
I didnt say it was leaking at all I was just wondering if it just wont go forward or reverse and I wanted to put the fliud Where do I put it I dont c a dip stik
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Thursday, October 2nd, 2014 AT 8:36 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Sorry if I did a poor job of making my answer understandable. The point I was trying to make is if the car won't move because it's low on transmission fluid, where did it go? There's a good eight or nine quarts in there, and it would need to be probably three to five quarts low to not move at all. That's a really serious leak. If there's a slower leak, you would have had a pile of other symptoms for quite a while before this.

If the level is low, the cause needs to be addressed. If the level is normal, adding fluid won't fix anything. Filling the fluid too full can cause rotating parts to whip up the fluid and whip air into it. Since air compresses, it prevents the clutch packs from applying with full pressure. The resulting slippage will do a lot of serious damage in very short order.

What led up to this? You said you're stuck on the highway, so obviously the car was moving up to that point. Was it driving and shifting normally, then suddenly stopped moving? Is there a red puddle under the front of the car? If the cooler got hit or a seal started leaking, adding fluid might get you off the highway, but that's an expensive way to go a fraction of a mile.

My normal reference material doesn't show a picture of the transmission, but there are a few things I can share. First, some manufacturers have gone to sealed transmissions with no dipsticks or places to add. Special equipment is needed to inject the fluid. We haven't figured out the advantage of that other than to force people to go back to the dealer. GM owners already know all about that customer-unfriendly business practice. If you DO have a dipstick, they're pretty well-marked by all manufacturers now.

What is more likely is a computer problem. Your transmission is computer-controlled. Chrysler products will default to second gear so you can still drive the car slowly to a repair shop. Other manufacturers that copied the design usually did something similar, but that is not always the case.

You should also observe if the shift lever feels normal or if it moves too easily. If you don't feel the normal resistance or feel the clicks, the cable likely is disconnected on one end. That is more common than you'd think, and it's usually an easy and inexpensive fix.
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Thursday, October 2nd, 2014 AT 10:19 PM
Tiny
IAN WELCH
  • MEMBER
This is a old topic. I am dealing with something similar.

One particular solenoid controls fluid pressure. If it malfunctions, the car won't go into drive or out of neutral.

Also, the shift linkage could be causing the issue. Regardless, this thread is from 2014 so I would love to hear what the problem was
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Thursday, June 8th, 2017 AT 3:01 PM
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Hello,

I believe it was a shift solenoid that was shorted out. Here is a transmission wiring diagram (below) so you can do some testing to find out if this can be your problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Please run this test and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Cheers, Ken

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Monday, June 12th, 2017 AT 1:42 PM
Tiny
PD123
  • MEMBER
This is an old topic thats been replied to a little more recently, and I was wondering if anyone had some ideas. I ran into the same issue as the OP; I was driving on the highway at 70mph, when all of a sudden the SRX felt like it had no acceleration. I was able to shift over a couple lanes and get into the breakdown lane, and since the stretch of highway was on a decline, I was able to immediately exit off the highway, pull over, and get a tow. I was driving a 2009 SRX, and I immediately noticed reddish fluid on the ground, in the area between the front drivers side tire and the front bumper. I had the vehicle towed to a property I own, and I left it there a couple weeks. The car will not move while in drive or reverse. I'm trying to figure out the issue now to get it repaired. I looked at the vehicle today, and there's fluid on the ground that looked like it was recent, not from before. I thought that it might be a line or a hose from the transmission to the radiator, but I'm not sure. I've searched around online and haven't figured out a common issue that it could be. Anyone have an idea? Thanks.
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Friday, January 19th, 2018 AT 4:50 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
You're going to have to crawl underneath and look for the source of the leak, but given the location of the puddle, I suspect the fix is going to be relatively minor. You're in the area where they normally run the steel lines to the transmission cooler. A lot of manufacturers have been ending those lines with short pieces of rubber hose, and quick-connect fittings that snap together quickly on the assembly line. That type of fitting has a rubber o-ring inside it that often shrinks and leaks, especially in cold weather. With some of those, the manufacturer had in mind that you must buy the entire line, all the way back to the transmission, to get the fitting. Some have repair kits that include just the rubber section and fitting. Use an air cut-off tool to cut the crimped band at the junction of the rubber and steel lines, then slide the rubber hose off. Slide the new hose onto the barbed end of the steel line, then hold it on with a regular hose clamp.

With some designs you can completely remove the rubber section of hose like I described, then you'll find both the end of the steel line and the fitting on the cooler have a barb. Slide on a new piece of hose rated for petroleum products and install a hose clamp at each end. Those clamps should not be right over the barbs as that can cause them to cut into the hose from the inside over time. Instead, place the clamp closer to the end of the rubber hose. The barb will seal to the hose, against fluid loss, and the clamp will run into the area of the barb to stop the hose from sliding off from the fluid pressure.
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Friday, January 19th, 2018 AT 5:26 PM
Tiny
PD123
  • MEMBER
CARADIODOC - thank you very much!

Just to update regarding my last post, my issue was caused do to a splice on the rubber hose end of the trans cooling line. I brought the vehicle into my shop, and had the damaged part of the rubber hose cut out, and replaced with a new piece of hose. After refilling the six quarts of fluid that was lost, the vehicle is up and running.

Thank you again to CARADIODOC for your quick reply and excellent insight!
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Tuesday, January 23rd, 2018 AT 11:40 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Yeah, I'm a genius. Well, at least if you think that, I'm not going to stand in your way!

Happy to hear you solved it.
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Tuesday, January 23rd, 2018 AT 1:43 PM
Tiny
PD123
  • MEMBER
Well, since getting the trans cooling line repaired a couple weeks ago, the vehicle once again acted up a few days ago; would not engage in drive or reverse, even in low gear. I had the same mechanic who repaired the transmission line look at it, and he's saying the transmission is completely gone. The car has slightly over 100k miles - is this common for first generation SRX's? Anything else it may be before I decide whether to replace the transmission?
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Monday, February 5th, 2018 AT 5:00 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
I'd get a second opinion from a transmission specialty shop. Anything you can present to them, they've run into it before. Of particular interest, automatic transmissions can be broken into two systems. There's the multiple clutch packs that transmit engine power to the wheels, and a system of valves and actuators that control those clutch packs. One clutch pack always is the first one to start slipping, and that only affects the gears that use that clutch. The vehicle will still move but you'll observe symptoms such as slipping. That's when a total rebuild is in order.

When the control system has a problem, multiple clutch packs won't be engaged, so the car may not move. The specialist can use a scanner to command the computer to turn the solenoids on and off that control those valves, to see what isn't working. The cause could be as simple a corroded connector terminal.
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Monday, February 5th, 2018 AT 6:24 PM
Tiny
PD123
  • MEMBER
Just to update this post, I have an appointment in a few days to bring the vehicle ('09 Cadillac SRX) into a transmission specialty shop. I scanned the vehicle for error codes, and the following are coming up (some of the codes were previous error codes that were not cleared):

The transmission fluid is fine, as it was refilled after I had the section of the tarns cooling line replaced a few weeks ago. Not sure if anybody has any ideas:

ENGINE CODES:
P013C (HO2S Slow Response Rich To Lean Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0300 (Engine Misfire Detected)
P0303 (Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected)
P0660 (Intake Manifold Tuning (IMT) Valve Solenoid Control Circuit)
P0562 (System Voltage Low)

TRANSMISSION CODES:
P0523 (Undocumented Code)
P0660 (Intake Manifold Tuning (IMT) Valve Solenoid Control Circuit)
P0562 (System Voltage Low)
P0897 (Transmission Fluid Life )

ANTILOCK BRAKE CODES:
C0050 (Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit Fault Erratic)
C0267 (Low Brake Fluid Indicated)
C0561 (System Disabled Information Stored Invalid Serial Data Received)
C0242 (PMC Indicated Traction Control System Malfunction)

AIRBAG CODES:
B0021 (Right Front Deployment Loop Resistance Above Threshold)
B0081 (Passenger Preference System 1 Erratic)
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Friday, February 16th, 2018 AT 12:49 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
P0562 (System Voltage Low) is the code I'd be most concerned about. Transmissions is not one of my specialty areas, but electrical is. GM has a lot of charging system problems which will cause low system voltage when the vehicle has to run on just the battery, but there should be similar fault codes in other computers for the other systems. In particular, anti-lock brakes and air bag systems need a good, strong system voltage to be able to do their things. Those would be the first computers to detect low system voltage and set a fault code. Since they have not, I think we can rule out a charging system problem.

That leaves just the Transmission Computer that is seeing low voltage. Typical suspects would be corroded, arced, or pitted contacts in the transmission relay, (when one is used), or the computer is not developing the right voltage to send to one of its circuits. I have a strong suspicion this is going to be an electrical problem, and not a mechanical problem within the transmission.
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Friday, February 16th, 2018 AT 5:47 PM
Tiny
JOEYCTS07
  • MEMBER
Hey at Caradiodoc, I recently was driving my Cadillac CTS 07 at approximately 80 mph for 4 hrs when I was near my home it suddenly stopped accelerating. I was able to pullover on the side of the road. Let the engine cool a bit started it up was able to drive about 20 yards very slowly till it stopped moving and the engine kept revving. So I left it on the side of the highway. Other than taking it to a transmission shop which I plan on doing what do you suggest/think the problem could be?
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Saturday, March 17th, 2018 AT 10:03 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
There's all kind of specialists we pay to figure out what's wrong, but they're all in buildings. Without being able to see under the car, my first guess would be a leak developed and the fluid level is low. The fact the car did move a little at the end suggests that would be a rather small leak that took a long time for the fluid to be lost.

The other potential cause has to do with the proliferation of computer controls. My expertise on that subject is limited to the first version of computer-controlled transmissions invented by Chrysler for 1989 models. Electrical problems related to that system would not cause slipping, but from what I've read over the years, when other manufacturers copied the idea, some of the controls are different and can result in slipping. I am not the person to give advice on the electrical part. Look under the vehicle for signs of wetness and / or a puddle on the ground. If everything is dry, it's time to consult the peope at a transmission specialty shop.
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Saturday, March 17th, 2018 AT 10:20 PM

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