Transmission not shifting out of first gear

The only two hoses that I show being molded lines are the upper and lower radiator hoses.

That means the other hoses are most likely just bulk hoses that you can get at any parts store, and you cut it to the length that you need.

This may not be correct, and Ford actually has a listing for them, but All Data does not list anything, and I cannot find them on RockAuto either. However, keep in mind that even if Ford has a molded line, it is not necessary to pay significantly more when bulk like will work. So, if it is not routed near something that could rub the hose then I would not spend the money on that and just replace it with bulk line.

There is a small line that comes with the upper hose so if this is one you are seeing then that will be provided as shown below.

That price is not bad for a replacement unit. Sounds like a good plan. Thanks

Sorry for the delay. Yes. Those are the torque converter nuts that hold the flex plate (which is connected to the crank shaft) to the torque converter.

Glad you figured it out. Thanks for updating us.

Oh my. Yeah, that is an issue. I can't tell but is that a band accumulator (the piston that applies one of the drum bands)?

There isn't anything specific that I need to see but I would replace all the steel and friction plates. There should just be a large snap ring and they will all come out. You will see a piston on the bottom of the sets, and you want to check and make sure the seals are not cut.

Then soak your friction clutches for a few hours in transmission fluid.

It is hard to say when rebuilding these units if something is the only cause.

Basically, we have to rely on what we find and what the vehicle was doing. So based on the fact that you had little or incorrect pressure and then vehicle would not shift properly, I would say this would explain it.

If this was not sealed then you are going to lose pressure and if you have low pressure, it is not going to shift properly or at all.

However, what you are doing is all we can do when we are rebuilding these. Inspect everything and replace what you think is questionable along with all seals and clutches. Coat all seals in transmission oil or petroleum jelly so that they don't go together dry. This is how to prevent ripping them on installation or first start up.

Lastly, when you get it all back together, if you can do an air check, which will help but you want to lift the drive wheel, fill the unit and check the pressure again before you go on the first test drive. Make sure you put at least a few quarts in and then start the engine and let us warm up. Check the fluid, add fluid to fill it and then run it through the gears and check it again.

If your pressure is correct once the unit is filled, then you can go for a test drive.

You are welcome. You can go with most any of the common sources like RockAuto or even a parts store like O'reilly's as they are pretty standard these days.

Here is a link to an online source that is pretty good because it lets you select what you want in your kit over and above what the other basic kits offer:

https://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/product/OPT-AX4N-RB.html

However, if you just want a master rebuild kit then that would be most of what you need. There are sometimes that you need to source things that are not in the kits but that is rare.

Sounds great. We will be here whenever you get back to it.

Thanks for the update.

They are exactly correct. That will be fine for low pressure. High pressure power steering lines can get up to 220 PSI so the hose clamp will just blow off. Those need a mechanical connection such as a press crimped line with a threaded connector.

Yep. They are all the same, so you don't have to worry about the order. Just they alternate steel, clutch, steel, clutch, and so on. The exact same order that they came out, just use the new ones.

You do not have to soak the seals, but I would soak the clutches in transmission fluid for at least an hour. Separate them so that the fluid coats them evenly.

It is hard to tell for sure but is that a spring/coil of metal? If so, that is the interior spring or support of a seal. It looks like what would be in an axle seal.

However, I don't think that was a part inside the transmission so I think you will be fine to continue.

Yep. That would have one of those. Thanks for sticking with us.

Let us know how you make out when you wrap this up and if you have other questions.

Thanks