Will not start

Tiny
CROSSING
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 115,000 MILES
Battery good. It does this on occasion and it will start with no problem as though nothing is wrong. Bo
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Wednesday, February 16th, 2011 AT 12:39 AM

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Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Pick your symptoms below check it and get back with some testing results

**Cranks but no start condition:

checking to see if you have spark and fuel is the first step

**No crank at all/nothing/nada when key is engage to starting position

Could be a blown fusible link, the starter, starter relay, clutch switch/park and neutral switch/transmission position switch and ignition switch assuming the battery condition and connections are good. Note:If it doesn't apply disregard.

See the guides below for testing some of the different things that can cause this

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-neutral-safety-switch-works
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Wednesday, February 16th, 2011 AT 5:14 AM
Tiny
DWK5023
  • MEMBER
Hey, the same thing happens to my 05' Chevy Impala Base 3.4L time to time. Usually when the engine is hot. I took it to get an oil change yesterday and the car would not start. The battery was replaced two days ago so that could be ruled out. Plugs were done a few weeks ago. They checked to see if the fuel pump was kicking on and it was. The engine was cranking and seemed as though it was about to fire up and it would just die. The mechanic held down the throttle when I turned the key and it would run until he let off the throttle and it would just shut down. It really had him confused as to what it was. I've read alot of people have been having this problem. Could it be a gasket that is leaking air or something or maybe something to do with the compression? I sat there for about an hour of trying and then tried it again and it fired right up. Talk about craziness.I think once the engine cools it's fine. Also once it is started it never dies, even when it is idling. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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Friday, February 25th, 2011 AT 6:50 PM
Tiny
JMAL0024
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 86,547 MILES
Lately when I go to crank my car, sometimes it will not start. My lights, radio, and air come on but the engine does not turn over. I found that if I wait ten minutes from when I turned the key initially to start my car it comes on.
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Friday, October 12th, 2018 AT 5:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RENAUDTN
  • MEMBER
It's a common problem with Passlock II (the theft deterrent system your car is equiped with).
The 'trick' you found is about the only thing you can do about it before you start replacing parts.
Here is the official GM passlock relearn procedure:
-turn key like you're going to start the car
-let key back to run
-wait until the security light goes out (about 10 minutes)
-turn key to OFF for 5 seconds.
-Start the same procedure again (starting at the first step) for another two times (three relearns total).

On the third time when you turn the key off and turn it back to start, your car should relearn the passcode.

In your case one relearn is enough, but just in case I figure I'd tell you that sometimes three relearns are necessary.

Now. At some point, this relearn procedure won't be enough to start your car (I can't tell you when. My wife has been driving her 2003 impala with the same problem for two years; it only happen to her once every other month or so). At this point you will probably have to take you car to a dealer to have it checked. Repairs may include new passlock sensor, new ignition switch/lock cylinder, new IPC, new BCM.

Hope this help a little bit.
I feel your pain. Every impala drivers do :(
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Friday, October 12th, 2018 AT 5:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SGLISSON9
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
My car is a 2003 impala and the check engine light is on and it will not start. Nor will it start with jumper cables either. Whats wrong with it?
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Friday, October 12th, 2018 AT 5:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Is the starter working? Have you checked for spark and fuel to the engine?
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Friday, October 12th, 2018 AT 5:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NICOLINO
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 134,000 MILES
My car wont start on the first try. All the lights, bells and everything else come on like normal but when you turn the key nothing happens. It does not sputter or act as if it is trying to start. If you let the key sit in the on position for several minutes then turn it off then start it seems to work. I have no idea what the problem is could it be spark plugs or wires? HELP we need the car for work and cant afford a full diagnostic and then repairs from a dealer. I would like to have an idea of what I am looking at.
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Friday, October 12th, 2018 AT 5:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RHALL77
  • MEMBER
Check your fuel pressure regulator and see if it is leaking. It may cause your hard start. It is located on the fuel rail by the throttle body.
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Friday, October 12th, 2018 AT 5:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JENNJDM
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 220,000 MILES
We have been having starting issues with the car for two years. It used to start after 5-10 minutes. We replaced the ignition switch twice. The first time it shorted the ignition switch out completely within three weeks. We also replaced a some kind of relay. It eventually got to where it would not start at all. We thought it was the the passlock system and installed a bypass system in it. It worked for about two months and starting having starting problems again. The key sticks a little bit now when trying to turn it.
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Friday, October 12th, 2018 AT 5:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
It may need an adjustment to the switch then check battery for condition including load test
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Friday, October 12th, 2018 AT 5:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FRANKLOPEZ56
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 3.4L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
I replaced the key ignition cylinder on a 2003 Chevy Impala but I cannot get it to start
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Friday, October 12th, 2018 AT 5:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
Is the security light on solid or flashing with the key in the run position? Have you relearned the new pass lock sensor?
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Friday, October 12th, 2018 AT 5:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
EELANNOD2
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 214,000 MILES
Car periodically refuses to start for about 15 - 20 minutes at all different times of night or day. Have already checked battery and changed the starter. Had Advanced Auto hook up to computer and had no message. Should I have the computer changed and can it only be done at a dealership?
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Friday, October 12th, 2018 AT 5:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
When the problem occurs, if the starter won't crank, I'd check the circuits at the crank relay, underhood fuse box. Pull the relay, use a testlite, two of those terminals should be hot with the key on. The pcm does ground the coil side of relay, in order to energize. The pcm receives a crank request from a crank fuse, then grounds the relay.
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Friday, October 12th, 2018 AT 5:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JSEHHAT
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 84,000 MILES
Engine won't start. No clicking noise that I would expect to hear if dead battery. Also, lights do not appear dim. Engine sounds like it is trying to turn over, but straining and even comes to a complete stop. Loud static-like sound from speakers, even though the radio is turned off!
I will replace battery tomorrow (it's about that time anyway), but I am worried that it may be an electrical problem, the starter, or that the engine has seized up (needs oil change, but level appears to be at least half full).
Thanks for your help.
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Friday, October 12th, 2018 AT 5:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
Use a digital multimeter across battery posts, everything off. The generic spec for a fully charged battery is 12.6 volts. Leave the leads on the battery posts, have helper turn key to crank. How far does the reading drop, shouldn't drop below 9 or 10 volts.

If you suspect a starter issue, some of the national brand autostores will test the starter for you. Take it off and take it to them for testing.

If you suspect hydrostatic lock, pull all the spark plugs, then try to crank.

It is possible your security system is causing an issue? You need to rule that out.
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Friday, October 12th, 2018 AT 5:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOLEDA
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 154,000 MILES
My 2003 impala starts and stalls. I can rev it up to 2500 rpm and it will run for couple minutes. Before this happened, the car would not start. I changed the fuel filter(black fuel came out of filter). The car fired up and I drove it home. It ran fine. I got home, shut off the car and it is starting and stalling. I get 3 codes P0171- system too lean bank 1, P0101- MAF or VAF, P0336 Cranksaft position sensor. I get black exhaust when I get it too run for a little while. Please help.
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Monday, March 25th, 2019 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
The 2 codes that would cause the stalling would be the MAF and/or crankshaft position sensor so you should start with them first.

DTC P0101: MAF SYSTEM PERFORMANCE

Diagnostic Aids

Inspect the harness of the MAF sensor to verify that it is not routed too close to the secondary ignition wires/coils, solenoids, relays, or motors.

A low minimum air rate through the sensor bore at idle or during deceleration may cause this DTC to set. Inspect for any deposits on the throttle plate or in the throttle bore or a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor.

Inspect for any contamination or debris on the sensing elements of the MAF sensor.

Inspect the air induction system for any water intrusion. Any water that reaches the MAF sensor will skew the sensor and may cause this DTC to set.

A wide open throttle acceleration from a stop should cause the MAF sensor parameter on the scan tool to increase rapidly. This increase should be from 7-12 g/s at idle to 150 g/s or more at the time of the 1-2 shift. If the increase is not observed, inspect for a restriction in the induction system or the exhaust system.

Inspect for a skewed or stuck ECT sensor.

Inspect for a skewed or stuck TP sensor.

A high resistance of 15 ohms or more on the ignition 1 voltage circuit may cause this DTC to set. A high resistance may cause a driveability concern before this DTC sets.

The barometric pressure that is used in order to calculate the predicted mass airflow value is initially based on the MAP sensor at key ON. When the engine is running the BARO sensor value is continually updated near wide open throttle. A skewed MAP sensor will cause the calculated mass airflow value to be inaccurate and may result in a no start condition. The value shown for the MAP sensor display varies with the altitude. With the ignition ON and the engine OFF, 103 kPa is the approximate value near sea level. This value will decrease by approximately 3 kPa for every 1000 feet (305 meters) of altitude.

A high resistance on the low reference circuit of the MAP sensor may cause this DTC to set.
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Monday, March 25th, 2019 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOLEDA
  • MEMBER
This morning out of curiosity, I cleared the codes. This afternoon I got it to run for about three minutes after I cleaned the TP sensor( it had a lot of carbon on it). Now it doesn't have any codes. How long does it take for the codes to show back up?
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Monday, March 25th, 2019 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Codes would show as soon as the engine computer detects them. Some requires a two trip ocurrence.
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Monday, March 25th, 2019 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)

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