Engine won't crank over

Tiny
AGRADO
  • MEMBER
  • 1961 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 35,000 MILES
I have a 1961 chevy impala starts up in the morning... but after is runs will not start back up.... no noise is from starter made... no clicking... any ideas?


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/158397_Photo_101307_001_1.jpg

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Thursday, February 14th, 2008 AT 4:55 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MEMBER
With a test light check the small wire at the starter motor and see if it has power when cranking. If it lights when turning the key to crank then replace your starter motor.(Most likely cause)
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Thursday, February 14th, 2008 AT 5:02 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Check for power at the purple wire on the solenoid-power there while in start position-you have a bad starter. No power could mean the neutral safety switch at the transmission or the ignition switch itself
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Thursday, February 14th, 2008 AT 5:02 PM
Tiny
AGRADO
  • MEMBER
It was the starter I replaced it with an AC Delco and works great.
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Friday, February 15th, 2008 AT 5:12 PM
Tiny
SCRIVJR
  • MEMBER
  • 1966 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • AUTOMATIC
I replaced the old ac deco styled starter on my 66 Chevy Impala (350sbc/700R4) with a new hi torque mini-starter from Summit Racing. The old starter still worked but I'd get the clicking sound when attempting to start the engine. It would eventually start but it normally took a few attempts. I installed the new starter and now it will only click. I confirmed that I'm getting power from the ignition and I've tried to start with the remote starter switch but I get the same click. The only time I can fire the engine is if I use a screwdriver to connect the two terminals on the starter that will crank the engine.

When I place the old ac delco back in it will start via the ignition switch after a few attempts. This a new starter how can I confirm if the solenoid or the starter motor is the issue?
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Friday, March 30th, 2018 AT 10:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
First see if the starter gets the same power as battery tehn check to see the voltage drop at starter when trying to start. Make sure the wires are hooked up correctly as well and there is a connection to solenoid from starter but it sounds like there is when you use a screwdriver. Make sure your battery is fully charged as well.
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Friday, March 30th, 2018 AT 10:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SCRIVJR
  • MEMBER
Thanks for the reply. Yes the connections are tight - I even replaced both battery cables and cleaned the engine ground. Battery is good getting 12.6V and there is no voltage drop.
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Friday, March 30th, 2018 AT 10:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
If your solenoid has "S" and "I" poles the s terminal shold be purple if it s stock wiring to start it that engages the solenoid if all you get is a click then the solenoid may be bad or not making good contact. If you are getting 12.6 volts at starter then that is plenty of power to engage it so check the wire going to ignition switch. Which changes to purpl dk blue /whit. These had no relays for this so it can either be a poor connection in junction block or the something wrong with ignition switch if it's a factory system. You can have starter tested for draw at autoparts for free. Was old starter shimmed and this on e isn't? That could also be the problem.
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Friday, March 30th, 2018 AT 10:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SCRIVJR
  • MEMBER
I checked the connections they are tight. I also have the starter tested and they said its it's good. I just disconnected the purple wire and connected the remote start switch and I'm getting the same loud click even when I bypass the ignition.
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Friday, March 30th, 2018 AT 10:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
It sure acts like the solenoid isn't transferring power to the starter motor is there a large piece of copper going from the starter motor to one pole on the solenoid? Or if you can send me a picture of the end of the starter and solenoid connections. I'm not that familiar with those and how they are set up. Make it a close up where you get all the connections in it. If everything tests good it should work.
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Friday, March 30th, 2018 AT 10:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SCRIVJR
  • MEMBER
That's what I thought until I had it tested and it passed. Attached is the pic for my car (purple wire is not connected in pic) also included is the stock pic from their website.
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Friday, March 30th, 2018 AT 10:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Don't now if first one went through, make sure wires with double arrow contact each other. I think they may be insulated from each other and put spacer on top of large wire
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Friday, March 30th, 2018 AT 10:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SCRIVJR
  • MEMBER
Think I may have figured it out. The gear is trying to engage (that's the click sound I'm hearing) however I need additional shims beyond what was provided. I'll run to the auto parts store and grab a few more. I'll keep you posted.
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Friday, March 30th, 2018 AT 10:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
I kind of thought that was the problem that is why I said in first reply to check to see if the shim pak is correct
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Friday, March 30th, 2018 AT 10:37 AM (Merged)

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