Please help

Tiny
UMER
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
Hi, I have honda civic 2002 vtec, yesterday its speedometer, tach meter, temp gauge and fuel gauge stoped working, i've checked all fuses underdash and under the hood they are ok. Then I took out the meter assembly for checking the conectors they seems fine, but accidently ive shorted some connections and heard relaly clicking sound, and then I lost my stereo, cabin light and I think central locking too, again checked all fuses they all are fine including stereo fuses, can u please help me. Thank you.
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Friday, December 31st, 2010 AT 4:07 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Seems you have a fault with the Multiplex Control Unit. It is plugged into the underdash relay box. Check for bad ground circuit connections at the MCU.

The MCU is related to the gauges, stereo, cabin lights and power door locks.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, January 2nd, 2011 AT 5:40 AM
Tiny
UMER
  • MEMBER
Can you plz send me the location and picture of the mcu of civic and the location of ground wire there are lots of ground wires in the car. The problem was started after I washed my car at a service station. Thanking you.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, January 10th, 2011 AT 8:59 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
It is built into the underdash fuse relay box.

TROUBLESHOOTING
MODE 1 TEST
1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover.

2. Check the No. 9 (10A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/ relay box and the No. 10 (7.5A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.

Are the fuses OK?
YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Find and repair the cause of the blown fuse.

3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

If the driver's seatbelt is unbuckled, the seatbelt reminder will chime 6 times.

4. Set the ceiling light to the center position and close all the doors.

5. Connect the special tool (A) to the multiplex inspection connector (B).

6. After about 5 seconds the spotlight and ceiling light should come on for 2 seconds, go out, then blink on for 0.2 second to show the system is now in Mode 1.

Did the spotlight and ceiling light indicate Mode 1?

YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Go to step 7.

7. Check for continuity between terminal 4 of the under-dash fuse/relay box connector J and body ground.

Is there continuity?
YES - Replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.
NO - Repair the open in the wire. If the wire is OK, repair G301.

8. If the DTCs are present, the spotlight and ceiling light will blink to indicate the DTC(s). If more than one DTC is present, the DTCs will be displayed in ascending order. If there are no DTCs the spotlight and ceiling light will not blink again after the Mode 1 indication.

Are there any DTCs?
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Go to the Mode 2 test.

9. Troubleshoot the DTC(s) in the order indicated using the following charts.
If a faulty control unit is suspected, substitute it with a known-good part and recheck for DTCs.

If the DTC(s) is still present, go to the next step instead for the DTC.
If the DTC(s) is no longer present, replace the original part.

MODE 2 TEST
1. From Mode 1, disconnect the special tool from the multiplex inspection connector for 5 to 10 seconds, and then reconnect it.

2. The spotlight and ceiling light should come on for 2 seconds, go out, then blink twice, 0.2 seconds each time. The system is now in Mode 2.

3. Operate the switches listed below. If the circuit is OK, the spotlight and ceiling lights will blink once. If the circuit is faulty, the lights will not blink.

Tip: Operate the switches most closely related to the problem you are diagnosing is a quick way of testing the circuits integrity.

4. If all inputs were confirmed, or multiple circuits failed at the same time in Mode 2, go to the multiplex sleep mode test. If a single switch fails in Mode 2, troubleshoot its circuit.

MULTIPLEX SLEEP MODE TEST

1. Connect the positive lead of a voltmeter to terminal 10 of the under-dash fuse/relay box connector E (YEL) or K (WHT/GRN) and the negative lead to body ground.

2. Connect ammeter between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post.

3. Remove the special tool from the multiplex inspection connector.

4. Close the doors, the hatch, turn the headlights off, turn off the ignition switch and remove the key.

5. Within 1 minute the voltage on the communication wire (E10 or K10) should change from approx 4 - 10 V to battery voltage and the amperage at the negative battery terminal should drop from approx. 70-80 mA to less than 10 mA.

6. Record your findings and go to the Multiplex Wake-up Test.

MULTIPLEX WAKE-UP TEST

1. From the sleep mode, Wake-up the multiplex system by performing one of the following operations:

Fig. 9: Multiplex Wake-up Test

2. As the system shifts to its active (wake-up) mode, communication wire voltage will return to 4-10 V and the battery terminal current will return to 70-80 mA.

3. If the system does not go into sleep mode or wake-up properly, perform the Multiplex Control Unit Input Test.

NOTE:
If multiplex circuits fail to respond in the Mode 2 tests and/or the multiplex circuit fails to go into sleep mode or wake-up, it may mean that a control unit failed without triggering a DTC in Mode 1. Perform the Multiplex Control Unit Input Test. If the input test confirms that all the inputs are working properly, substitute a known-good multiplex control unit, gauge assembly or ECM one at a time. If after swapping one of the above components the system works properly, replace the original component, it is faulty.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Tuesday, January 11th, 2011 AT 3:05 PM
Tiny
UMER
  • MEMBER
I've replaced fuse no.9 (10A) everything fixed except speedometer, tach meter and both fuel and temp gauges not working, I refixed both meter conectors but no help, Oil and ABS lights are also working fine but got no meters, gauges and gear indications. Please can someone help, thank you.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, January 12th, 2011 AT 1:06 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Have you performed the test indicated above?
They can tell you if the meter cluster is bad, which I believe is the cause.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, January 12th, 2011 AT 2:51 PM
Tiny
UMER
  • MEMBER
I've checked the supply in both connectors with a multimeter, both got supply. But meter is dead.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, January 12th, 2011 AT 3:12 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Try the following to see if you can come up with anything.

SELF-DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION
The gauge assembly has a self-diagnosis function.
The beeper drive circuit check
The indicator drive circuit check
The LCD segments check
The gauges drive circuit check (Speedometer, Tachometer, Fuel gauge, Coolant temperature gauge)
The communication line check (the coolant temperature signal line between the gauge and ECM/PCM)

ENTERING THE SELF-DIAGNOSIS FUNCTION

Before doing the self-diagnosis function, check the No. 9 (10A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box and No. 10 (7.5A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.

1. Push and hold the trip/reset button.

2. Turn the lighting switch ON.

3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

4. Within 5 sec, turn the lighting switch OFF, then ON and OFF again.

5. Within 5 sec, release the trip/reset button, then push and release the button four times repeatedly.

NOTE:
While in the self-diagnosis mode, the dash lights brightness
controller operates normally.
While in the self-diagnosis mode, the trip/reset button is used
to start the beeper drive circuit check and the gauge drive circuit check.
If the vehicle speed exceeds 1.2 mph (2 km/h) or the ignition
switch is turned OFF, the self-diagnosis mode ends.

THE BEEPER DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self-diagnosis mode, the beeper sounds five times.

THE INDICATOR DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self-diagnosis mode, the following indicators blink. Seat belt indicator, Door/trunk indicator, Brake system light, Low fuel indicator, Maintenance required indicator (USA), Washer fluid level indicator light (Canada), Oil pressure light and, A/T gear position indicator (except P, R, N).

THE LCD SEGMENT CHECK
When entering the self-diagnosis mode, the odo/trip segment blinks five times.

THE GAUGE DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self-diagnosis mode, the speedometer and the tachometer, the fuel gauge, and the coolant temperature gauge needles sweep from the minimum position to maximum position, then return to the minimum position.
NOTE:
After the beeper stops sounding and the gauge needles return to the minimum position, pushing the trip/reset button starts the beeper drive circuit check (one beep), and the gauge drive circuit check again. The check cannot be started until the needles return to the minimum position. If the gauge needles fail to sweep, replace the gauge assembly.

THE COMMUNICATION LINE CHECK
In the self-diagnosis mode, after the odo/trip LCD segments check, the self-diagnosis starts the communication line check. If all segments come on, the communication line is OK. If the word "Error" is indicated, there is a malfunction in the communication line between the gauge assembly, the multiplex control unit, and the ECM/PCM.

ENDING THE SELF-DIAGNOSIS FUNCTION
Turn the ignition switch OFF.

NOTE:
If the vehicle speed exceeds 1.2 mph (2 km/h), the self-diagnosis function ends.

If any of the checks do not function as specified, replace the gauge assembly.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, January 12th, 2011 AT 3:38 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Recommended Guides