Gauge cluster problems

Tiny
VKHALUS
  • 2001 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 169,000 MILES

My 2001 Honda Civic lx gauge cluster turns on, then turns off, then turns on again. Its affecting the tachometer, speedometer, fuel guage.

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Friday, December 31st, 2010 AT 4:13 AM

23 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
  • 41,974 POSTS

See if the following is of any help.

SELF-DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION

The gauge assembly has a self-diagnosis function.

The beeper drive circuit check
The indicator drive circuit check
The LCD segments check
The gauges drive circuit check (Speedometer, Tachometer, Fuel gauge, Coolant temperature gauge)
The communication line check (the coolant temperature signal line between the gauge and ECM/PCM)

ENTERING THE SELF-DIAGNOSIS FUNCTION
Before doing the self-diagnosis function, check the No. 9 (10A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box and No. 10 (7.5A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.

1. Push and hold the trip/reset button.

2. Turn the lighting switch ON.

3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

4. Within 5 sec, turn the lighting switch OFF, then ON and OFF again.

5. Within 5 sec, release the trip/reset button, then push and release the button four times repeatedly.

NOTE:

While in the self-diagnosis mode, the dash lights brightness controller operates normally.
While in the self-diagnosis mode, the trip/reset button is used to start the beeper drive circuit check and the gauge drive circuit check.
If the vehicle speed exceeds 1.2 mph (2 km/h) or the ignition
switch is turned OFF, the self-diagnosis mode ends.

THE BEEPER DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self-diagnosis mode, the beeper sounds five times.

THE INDICATOR DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self-diagnosis mode, the following indicators blink. Seat belt indicator, Door/trunk indicator, Brake system light, Low fuel indicator, Maintenance required indicator (USA), Washer fluid level indicator light (Canada), Oil pressure light and, A/T gear position indicator (except P, R, N).

THE LCD SEGMENT CHECK
When entering the self-diagnosis mode, the odo/trip segment blinks five times.

THE GAUGE DRIVE CIRCUIT CHECK
When entering the self-diagnosis mode, the speedometer and the tachometer, the fuel gauge, and the coolant temperature gauge needles sweep from the minimum position to maximum position, then return to the minimum position.

NOTE:
After the beeper stops sounding and the gauge needles return to the minimum position, pushing the trip/reset button starts the beeper drive circuit check (one beep), and the gauge drive circuit check again. The check cannot be started until the needles return to the minimum position. If the gauge needles fail to sweep, replace the gauge assembly.

THE COMMUNICATION LINE CHECK
In the self-diagnosis mode, after the odo/trip LCD segments check, the self-diagnosis starts the communication line check.

If all segments come on, the communication line is OK.

If the word "Error" is indicated, there is a malfunction in the communication line between the gauge assembly, the multiplex control unit, and the ECM/PCM.

ENDING THE SELF-DIAGNOSIS FUNCTION
Turn the ignition switch OFF.

NOTE:
If the vehicle speed exceeds 1.2 mph (2 km/h), the self-diagnosis
function ends.

If any of the checks do not function as specified, replace the gauge assembly.

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Sunday, January 2nd, 2011 AT 2:52 PM
Tiny
VKHALUS
  • MEMBER

Thanks for the info, I did the self-diagnosis test, and the word "error" is indicated, and you said there's a malfunction between communication line between gauge assembly, and the ECM. So what do I do next, remove the gauge assembly and check the wires, or replace the whole gauge assembly.

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Sunday, January 2nd, 2011 AT 8:43 PM
Tiny
VIVICHO
  • MEMBER

Hi I a pretty similar issue, but selfdiagnostic does not show any error message and it works fine. Sometimes everything turn off no RPM, no speed, just the break light is on. And sometimes everything works fine but the odometer says 8888888. I think it could be a grounding but not sure where to look for. Any ideas or help on this,

thanks.

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Monday, July 4th, 2011 AT 5:29 PM
Tiny
VKHALUS
  • MEMBER

The best way to fix this instrumental panel problem is to replace it and get a new one, this might be illegal but I dont care, I dont want to spend hundreds of dollars to fix the broken one, instead I got one for free, and it works just perfectly. So when the mechanic says, "it (instrumental panel) will only work for that car only, cause there's a chip" then thats bs, cause he just wants more money from you. So just get a used instrumental panel on ebay or a junk yard, and all those electronic problems go away, trust me.

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Monday, July 4th, 2011 AT 5:44 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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  • 41,974 POSTS

Yes, it is possible for the instrument cluster to be bad. The mileage can be recalibrated to the one on your vhicle to make it legal.

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Monday, July 4th, 2011 AT 8:29 PM
Tiny
VKHALUS
  • MEMBER

So, how do you recalibrate the mileage, because im selling my civic in a couple of months.

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Tuesday, July 5th, 2011 AT 12:15 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Apart from the dealer, I am not sure who does it in your area but if you ask around at parts outlets, they might be able to recommend someplace who can do it for you.

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Tuesday, July 5th, 2011 AT 2:01 PM
Tiny
VIVICHO
  • MEMBER

Hi I finally found the problem. After a year of checking almost all the electric system I found the issue. At the beginning I was thinking that the fuel meter sensor ground was the issue but at the end it was not.
Here is what I found:
The small piece of rubber that activates the cruise control switch in the clutch pedal was not there, so the circuit was always opened. It was leaking current and CPU on the gauge cluster was getting incorrect voltage levels from the MCU or fuse box. The CC switch is normally closed so it is always consuming current so when you put the key on ignition mode it absorbs current and provide what is exactly needed for the gauge cluster.

Hope it helps.

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Monday, July 18th, 2011 AT 6:21 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Thanks for the input.

It definitely is going to help others.

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Monday, July 18th, 2011 AT 7:21 PM
Tiny
NATHAN.D.BALK
  • MEMBER

Vivicho,
Where exactly is the small rubber piece that activates the cruise control switch. Is it up on the clutch where it enters into the car? Once I find that location, can I just place a new rubber piece there. Can I buy that piece at a hardware store? I guess I am just asking for some more details on how to fix the problem from your previous response on July 18th.

Hi I had the same problem. After a year of checking almost all the electric system I found the issue. At the beginning I was thinking that the fuel meter sensor ground was the issue but at the end it was not.
Here is what I found:
The small piece of rubber that activates the cruise control switch in the clutch pedal was not there, so the circuit was always opened. It was leaking current and CPU on the gauge cluster was getting incorrect voltage levels from the MCU or fuse box. The CC switch is normally closed so it is always consuming current so when you put the key on ignition mode it absorbs current and provide what is exactly needed for the gauge cluster.

Thanks

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Tuesday, November 8th, 2011 AT 12:06 AM

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