ABS Module

Tiny
KENTUCKYCUB
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
I have the (4) bolts out of the Module What is the best way to get the two apart without prying?
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2015 AT 7:32 AM

13 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Here is a video of the job being done

https://youtu.be/lUotkKXG9dY

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2015 AT 8:07 AM
Tiny
KENTUCKYCUB
  • MEMBER
I have already got the (4)bolts out, issue is how to get the EBCM apart from the EHCU without prying, would using a razor knife to cut the seal be practical
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2015 AT 9:56 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
If you have cleaned around it then try using a rubber mallet or similar and tapping around it lightly to remove it.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2015 AT 12:15 PM
Tiny
KENTUCKYCUB
  • MEMBER
Thanks Hmac300 I got it, I was a little hesitant about hammering around on it, thanks for your help.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2015 AT 7:02 PM
Tiny
T.R.GADDY
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
Brakes problem
2000 Chevy Silverado V8 Four Wheel Drive Manual

what order do the lines go into the abs pump?
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Tuesday, September 10th, 2019 AT 6:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RHALL77
  • MEMBER
If you have it removed, I would suggest stoping at your local dealer and see if they can get you a copy of what you need.
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Tuesday, September 10th, 2019 AT 6:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROY HODKIEWICZ
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 4.3L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 148,000 MILES
The anti-lock brakes engage when the vehicle is going very slow (walking speed), as when coming to a stop. Wheels are turning (without lock-up), and there is no reason for the anti-lock mechanism to engage. This is more than just annoying because while the brakes are rapidly pulsating, the vehicle is not stopping. For example, while creeping along and turning into a parking spot, the anti-lock brake mechanism began pulsation of the brakes, preventing the depression/actuation of the brake pedal, which disallowed the vehicle to slow down. I barely missed scraping the car parked in the adjacent spot, because I expected the vehicle to slow down and stop. I removed the fuse for the anti-lock brake system, and that prevented the problem from reoccurring (hydraulics work good), but the cruse control stopped working. I do not care about not having anti-lock brakes, but I do value, and want the cruse control. What is your recommendation on dealing with this. No ABS error codes in computer.
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Tuesday, September 10th, 2019 AT 6:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
The wheel speed sensors on GM trucks generate rather wimpy signals to start with, and anything that reduces that even more will make it look to the computer like that wheel stopped turning. In response the ABS kicks in to try to get that wheel turning again. On most truck brands the ABS stops activating below 3 - 7 mph, but even when they still do, most don't reduce stopping distances like on GM vehicles. The purpose of anti-lock brakes is actually only to maintain steering control, not shorten stopping distances, but most vehicles DO stop quicker when the ABS kicks in.

I assume you have four-wheel anti-lock brakes, not rear-wheel, and it's a 1500. GM has had a common problem where rust builds up between the hub and wheel speed sensor. That pushes the sensor away from the tone ring which weakens the already weak signal. Many people think they solve the problem by replacing the speed sensor, which will work, but the better fix is to remove the two front sensors and clean the rust off the mounting surfaces on the hubs, and to clean off any rust or metal filing on the end of the sensor.

If there was an electrical problem with a sensor, typically a broken wire, that would be detected by the computer which would set a diagnostic fault code, turn the system off, and turn the yellow warning light on to tell you. That hasn't happened so we can assume electrically the sensors are okay. They just aren't generating a solid signal. Anything that generates a voltage generates a smaller voltage as the speed decreases. That's why you get the false activation only at lower speeds. As the problem gets worse, the false activation will occur at higher and higher speeds.
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Tuesday, September 10th, 2019 AT 6:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROY HODKIEWICZ
  • MEMBER
Thank you very much!
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Tuesday, September 10th, 2019 AT 6:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GLENKE
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 6.0L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
Have you ever taken a abs module out of a 2000 Silverado 2500? How is this done with the 1 inch room? Please be specific. Thanks
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Tuesday, September 10th, 2019 AT 6:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Disconnect harness first, wash all contaminants for unit. Unbolt bracket from frame remove unit then unbolt bracket for abs unit. However for install this has to have a pro use a scanner to program it to your vehicle.
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Tuesday, September 10th, 2019 AT 6:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OLDCHAS
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 CHEVROLET SILVERADOCHEVROLET SILVERADO
MY truck is a 1999 2wd ext cab. 56000 mi. 6cyl.
The abs module has 5 ports for hydraulic lines. Three in a row near the top of one end of the unit and two spaced just below those. Two of these ports are for input lines and three are for output. I need to know which ports are input (one front input and one input for the rear) and which are output (one output rear, two output front.)


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/82139_KHABS_1.jpg

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Tuesday, September 10th, 2019 AT 6:32 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DODGERAM333
  • MEMBER
Looking at your pict. Tr goes to rear brakes. Ct goes to rf, tl goes to lf. Bl goes thru proportioning valve and to the front of the master cylinder. Ll goes thru prop. Valve and to the rear of master cylinder. 02 dodge ram 3500.
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Tuesday, September 10th, 2019 AT 6:32 PM (Merged)

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