The fuel pump relay and / or automatic shutdown (ASD) relay are in the fuse box under the hood. (DIAGRAM BELOW)
It is real common for General Motors pumps to quit and leave you sitting on the side of the road in a puddle of tears. Chrysler pumps almost never fail like that. They fail to start up when you try to start the engine but once they've started running, they don't quit while driving. If yours did, it's a much better bet there is an electrical problem with the wire going to it.
There is no manual reset switch. That was a very troublesome Ford item. Chrysler never used that silly design. The place to start is by bypassing the fuel pump relay to see if the pump runs. You don't even need the ignition switch to be turned on. As I recall, it is going to be the smaller relay on the right of my drawing. If you don't have a separate fuel pump relay, bypass the automatic shutdown relay, terminals 30 and 87.
If it doesn't run on starting fluid, that proves there's more wrong than the fuel pump.
The fuel pump does have its own relay. It is turned on by the Engine Computer during engine rotation, (cranking or running). The computer turns the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay on at the same time. The ASD relay sends current to the injectors, coil pack, alternator field, and oxygen sensor heaters.
If you do have spark, we know the ASD relay is working. The only way the injectors could not have voltage on the dark green / orange feed wires is if there is a corroded splice or a cut wire. Can you double-check that voltage while a helper cranks the engine?
I know you don't have the 2.0L engine because that is a single cam engine. The 2.4L is not an interference engine so the valves won't be damaged if the timing belt jumps a few teeth or breaks, but the valves can hit each other if you turn the camshafts independently. If you do that and you feel binding or sudden excessive resistance, don't force them. The 2.5L has a single cam on each head. That is an interference engine. If the timing belt jumps three teeth or breaks, open valves will be hit by the pistons as they coast to a stop. You'll hear that by the way it cranks too fast and very smoothly.
If the timing belt jumps one tooth, the Check Engine light will be turned on and the fault code "cam and crank sync" will be set. If it jumps two teeth, the computer will stop the engine by turning off the ASD relay to protect the valves. On older models, signals had to be received by both the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor for the computer to turn the ASD relay on. Beginning in the early 2000s on some models, the engine could still run if one sensor failed. Some would run on one failed sensor if you bypassed the ASD relay.
The next bit of confusion involves that fuel pressure you think you have. Besides the computer turning on the ASD and fuel pump relays during cranking, it also turns them on for one second when you turn on the ignition switch. That proves the pump, relay, and fuse are okay if you can hear the hum of the pump over the chime. That one-second burst is to insure fuel pressure is up high enough for engine starting in case it bled down over days or weeks. If the injectors are not firing, that fuel pressure should remain there. THAT is the pressure you could be measuring. That won't tell you if the pump is running during cranking. If you bypass the fuel pump relay, then hear the pump running or you hear the hiss coming from the fuel pressure regulator on the injector rail, we will know everything in that circuit is working.
If there are no fault codes, you'll need a scanner that displays live data to see what the Engine Computer sees. During cranking, the cam and crank sensors will be listed as "no" or "present" to indicate whether their signals are showing up at the computer. If both are listed as "no", the 5.0 volt feed wire or the ground wire, both common to both sensors, is open or grounded, or one of the sensors is shorted. If the wire or either sensor is shorted, the computer shuts the power supply down to protect it. Unplug the two sensors, turn the ignition switch off, then back on to reset the 5.0 volt power supply, then verify 5.0 volts is present in both connectors. Plug one sensor back in, then the second one. If the 5.0 volts goes away again when one sensor is plugged in, that one is shorted and must be replaced.
When the computer receives a sensor signal during cranking, it knows it should be getting a signal from the other one too, and when it doesn't, it sets the appropriate fault code. When both signals are missing, it assumes the engine isn't cranking properly and no code is likely to be set. That's where the scanner becomes necessary to see if one or both signals are missing.
The scanner will also show fuel as "off" or "allowed". If it is off, that can be the result of the anti-theft system. I won't go into detail there because I haven't had to work on many of them on Chrysler products, and that system would not cause the engine to stall while you were driving.
I have seen the harness for the cam sensor by the valve cover short together about 8-10 inches behind the connector. Check that as well.
Please let us know what happens.
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Saturday, April 22nd, 2017 AT 12:43 PM