I cannot get my 2000 Bravada to start. At first I thought it was the distributor, since after it rains mine can be difficult, and usually requires drying with a low-power heat gun. When this did not work I listened for the fuel pump, which did come on when I put the key in, and both the exhaust and engine (by way of air intake port) smelled like gasoline, leading me to believe it was an electrical, not fuel, problem. I tested the volts at the distributor cap and saw that there was no power reaching it. The rest of the powered things on my car work fine (radio, windows, power seats etc.) So it seemed strange that there was no spark plug power. The starter sounded fine, so I guess something is grounding out somewhere along the way, or I have a bad coil. Any advice on what might cause this?
So you have no spark you tested for spark?Also no power to the coil?Any codes in the computer?Also is the security light on solid or flashing while trying to start it?
December, 27, 2012 AT 12:56 AM
I am wondering what the result was ofr flyfisher65"s question above. I am having the same issue with my 2000 Bravada. When it rains, it doesn't want to start. I was stranded at work on Christmas Eve when the truck decided it wasn't going to start for me. No rain at that point. It made a horrible clicking noise which made me wonder if the starter is bad. I'm in the process of replacing the starter now. All electronics on the truck worked when I tried starting the truck so I know it isn't a battery issue. Help! Also, mine has no heat. The thermostat has been replaced and it doesn't have coolant. The hoses under the hood get hot, but there is no hot air coming into the truck. Only cold air. I'm at my wits end with this truck. And I'm a girl!
December, 27, 2012 AT 1:04 AM
Unless you had the battery tested then you don't know if the battery is bad.A weak battery can case the starter to make a clicking noise because there isn't enough amps to operate the starter correctly. Everything else on the vechile takes a lot less amps to operate.
December, 27, 2012 AT 1:05 AM
Also do you have a multi meter to o some testing?
December, 27, 2012 AT 9:57 AM
No, I don't have a multi meter. The battery cannot, seriously, be the issue with this truck. A battery would not cause it to NOT start when it rains. Otherwise, it started fine until Christmas Eve. At which point, I parked it because I am NOT going to continue to get stranded at work 45 minutes from home. What are the other more logical causes for this. And for the fact that there is no heat?
December, 27, 2012 AT 3:44 PM
When its colder the battery has less cranking amps so if its weak then it will show more when its cold. That's why I asked to just have the battery tested. So the starter justs clicks and doesn't work when it doesn't start?Also make sure the battery cables are clean and tight?A multi meter would really help trouble shoot the no start. Even if I was there when it acted up when it didn't start I would want to test some things. So how do you get it to start when it won't start?Just wait?As far as your no heat I would when the engine is up to operating the temp. See if both heater hoses going into the heater core at the firewall are too hot to hold?
December, 28, 2012 AT 2:04 AM
I bought a Chilton today. The Chilton has been more helpful. The battery tests fine. The cables are tight and have no corrosion on them or the connectors. Yes, when it wouldn't start, I would have to wait for it to decide it was gonna start. I am in the process of replacing the cap and rotor since I am told by another auto professional these vehicles are known for getting moisture inside the distributor caps which will cause the vehicle to not start. NOT the battery. This issue has been ongoing for months now. Even during the summer months and would only do it when it rained. As soon as it dried out, there would be no issues with it starting. The Chilton is telling me, as far as the heat, that since the hoses to the heater core are both getting hot that the heater core, itself, may have a blockage. It tells me to remove the hoses and backflush the heater core to remove any blockage. If this doesn't solve the no heat issue, to replace the heater core because it is faulty.I should have bought this book before now instead of getting answers that weren't of any help.
December, 28, 2012 AT 6:46 AM
You said you hear a horrible clicking noise when it won't start I thought you were talking the starter clicking and being inop. As far as the heater hoses go you said there both getting hot?Are they both getting too hot to hold going into the heater core at the firewall?If so the heater core is not blocked so you miss spoke or Chilton has a miss print in there manual. If both heater hoses are getting too hot to hold and you still have not hot air there is a blend door issue. Is your distributor up front by the belt?If so you could be getting water in the cap.I had a 1969 caddy that the distributor was up front. Every time I drove it in the rain if I rained hard enough the car would stall. Next time it won't start pop the cap off and see if there is water under the cap. To fix my caddy I found a ford at pick a part that had a rubber boot that covered the cap. I put the boot on my cap problem solved. Hope this helps no need to try to put down this site down
since were here to help even if someone is trying to knock our help lol.